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Am a little behind now that I have a buddy to share Pisco Sours and talk with after Zoe goes to bed so the next few blogs are written a bit after the fact. Not only has Derek's arrival generated new conversation and companionship for us, but he arrived with his iphone camera so we have pictures again and his love for plants/flowers/etc. so we have lots of great botanical photos as well.
It was a wonderful first week with our new traveling threesome. After long bus rides to Lima, we met Derek late last Saturday night and all flew to Arequipa first thing (5:30am) Sunday morning. We went straight from the airport to the bus terminal and arrived in the beautiful Colca Canyon area in time for a late lunch. We spent the first couple of days living it up at the Colca Lodge - a really great place, just outside one of the villages, alongside the Colca River with natural hot springs. It was such a treat to have a hotel that provided towels, shampoo, soap, and even conditioner and robes - let alone hot springs - particularly in such a remote and lovely setting. I especially enjoyed the alpacas and llamas housed on site - and tried to pet several before being warned they would be more likely to spit at me than enjoy my attention.
From the lodge, we hiked to the Uyo Uyo Ruins, which are pre-Inca structures, some from as long as 2,500 years ago, surrounded by terraces for farming that people still use today. We also went through a couple of small towns and continued to see the contradictions that make Peru so interesting - older indigenous women in tradtional dress talking on cell phones, kids break dancing to rap music in the town (population 150) square in front of a 500 year old church, and people wearing abercrombie and fitch knock-off shirts selling fresh alpaca meat (cut to the size/type of your preference) right on the streets.
Then we went to other extreme with a 3 day/2 night trek into canyon. Colca Canyon is larger than the Grand Canyon, and on the first day we descended all the way down to the river, more than 4,000 feet below. It looked like Yosemite's basalt rock walls in places, and we wished we had come in the rainy season when many waterfalls flow down the canyon walls. We spent the first night in a family's home in a village of about 30 people on the other side of the canyon. No seats on toilets, toilet paper, or pillows on beds - and chickens/guinea pigs running freely through kitchen (that would some day become part of a meal). Definitely a big shift from the fancy lodge.
The next day we walked through more villages with the snow capped mountains far above us, going up and down from river bed to the little towns about 1,000 feet above. We tried the alcoholic version of chicha (made from fermented corn), but much preferred the virgin version (chicha morrada) made of purple corn that people serve by the pitcher at meals. We learned that there are more than 4,000 types of potatoes and over 200 types of corn grown in Peru, and saw many of them growing in the terraces between the towns. We reached the "oasis" by mid afternoon - a more recent, man made area of palm trees and 4 different large swimming pools - out of place but it did provide us with a very welcome swim and time to cool off and catch our breath.
We were supposed to then hike back up 4,000 feet, starting at 3:30pm and hiking basically straight up with just some steep switch backs along the way (see photos), but Zoe said enough and opted for the mule ride. Unfortunately (for me) this meant I too had to skip the hike (which would have been great prep for Machu Pichu) and ride on a mule, and I am not a fan of riding on horses, mules, or anything else without clearly marked gears or gas and brake pedals. It was very uncomfortable and much scarier than hiking - the mules liked to pass one another right on the edge of the trail over the canyon and I kept telling mine "despacio" (slowly) but I don't think he was particularly impressed with my Spanish. Major kudos to Derek for making the hike up in only about 2 hours (the rest of the group took 3.5 hours) and still being able to walk the next day.
After a warmish shower and good night's sleep, we had a great last day seeing dozens of condors riding the winds over the canyon, touring more villages, visiting a vicuna preserve, and returning to Arequipa amidst the mountains.
- comments
Judy MMcCombs WOW 2 all 3 of u! What you are doing is marvelous--and thanks for sharing it with your armchair folks, Take care, Mom
Holly Kernan Too much fun!!! Wish we were there with you. Can't wait to hear more about your adventures in a few weeks.