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Sudan
Ferry from Aswan, Egypt to Wadi Halfa, Sudan
Traffic court to get a slip of paper that says I have not committed any driving offences whilst driving in Egypt, what a joke I was probably the only one who hadn't.
Once we found the place as it had no signs and was a grotty building with rubbish up the stairs, I handed over my Egyptian driving licence only to be told there was a problem as on the computer it showed an offence and I would have to pay £E300 which is £30. It turned out someone previous to me who had the licence must have got this offence but now their system would not allow the piece of paper I needed unless I paid. However I refused to pay and after 3 hours of sitting in the office finally got the paper I needed and left without paying anything.
Next to the traffic police to give them the paper from the traffic court and the Egyptian number plates and then escorted to the high dam port to go through customs. We had to pay £E238 (£24) each for the second class deck seat and then £E2012 (£200) for the car to go on the barge down the Nile. The barge was next to the ferry so loading the truck onto the barge was interesting. The barge was only as wide as the car so you wanted to be ready on the brakes and their were millions of people trying to load cargo (tomatoes, fridges ect) onto the boat whilst Jonny was trying to drive the car on. The barge left and we watched as our car sailed of down the river hoping we would see it again.
Jonny and I found a spot on the deck of the ferry next to the bridge and laid down some cardboard and a matt which was to be our bed for the night. As we sailed down the Nile we watched the sun set over the desert and then lay on deck watching millions of stars. We woke to sunrise and the Abu Simbel mountains and temple which was great to see and then 5 hours later we were mooring up in Wadi Halfa in the 45 degree sunshine.
Sudan, Wadi Halfa
There was nothing there except a barge for the ferry to stop against and we wondered how we would get our car off the barge when it arrived the next day.
After our passports where checked for the hundredth time we were on the back of a series 2 land Rover heading to town and our hotel. We stayed in the Cangun hotel the nicest hotel in town for equivalent of £12 for the room but our hotel being the nicest says something about the others. We had a long drop toilet and a shower that was over the long drop but we had a ceiling fan which was much appreciated.
In the evening we found a restaurant and I ordered an omelette and Jonny ordered bean stew. What we got was a fried egg and salt with some beans so not raving about the Sudanese food just yet. Luckily in this heat we have lost our appetites and are constantly drinking water, between the 2 of us we get through 10 litres a day and maybe only pee once.
Next day off to the immigration office to register which is called alien registration (charming). After 3 hours, many signatures and 426 SDP we finally had the sticker in our passport. 1pm and the barge with our car has arrived so we take a TUK TUK (3 wheeled mop head with a bench seat on the back) to the port. Down at the docks we had to figure out how to get the cars off the barge so it was moving pallets and finding bits to make a ramp. We got our car off the barge at 3pm only to be told the customs officer was tired he had a long day and we must come back tomorrow to clear customs. Off back into town to another hotel for the night and fried goat with bread for dinner.
Next morning into another TUK TUK down to the port for 9am and by 12.30 we finally cleared customs and we were allowed out. A quick stop at a mini shop to get some supplies which consisted of eggs and peas for a pea omelette that night. BACK ON THE ROAD AGAIN and on our way through the desert and along the Nile to Dongola. We pulled off the road after 3 hours and under some palm trees by the river for some lunch, beautiful. After a small amount of off roading we found somewhere to wild camp next to some farmers fields behind some trees. We were now travelling with Charlie and Adriana (a polish couple) travelling from Poland to South Africa in a Transit van so we camped up together and watched the sunset over the desert.
In the morning we drove into Dongola to get some fruit and veg for the road. Turns out fruit and veg in Northern Sudan is actually quiet expensive but then as it is 95% desert I can understand why. Back on the road and more hours through the desert we arrive at Karima and stop for lunch by the pyramids. We then tried to get diesel before the next part of our long drive through the desert but the petrol stations either only had petrol or the owner was asleep. Finally at the 6th station we filled up (diesel 40 pence a litre) and back on the road and heading for the Meroe pyramids 2 hours north of Khartoum (Capital of Sudan). We decided to camp up a hill behind the pyramids but as we were driving up we noticed fresh tracks in the sand. Turned out there was another overlanding truck, a land rover with a Polish family already there, they had driven north from South Africa.
The camp spot was great, in the desert overlooking the pyramids and we shared some South African wine with the Polish family. That evening became interesting when we were caught up in a big sand storm of strong winds and sand was being blown into the roof tent.
By morning everything was covered in sand including the two of us. We opened the tent window to see some small children had set up a stall selling small pyramids and then 8 camels turned up hoping to sell rides so we lay in bed listening to camel growns. Back on the road again and on our way to Khartoum. Arrived at the Blue Nile sailing club hoping to camp there but no one spoke to us as it was prey time so we moved on and found a camp spot at Sudans national camping residence (Butlins for the Sudanese) but cheap and there was a tree for shade. Arrived in Khartoum Saturday morning only to find out Ramadam had finished and therefore there was 4 days off for everyone so nothing was open and we would have to wait till Weds to get our Ethiopian visa. So back to camp and used a few days to do washing, clean the car and see the few sites of Khartoum. One of the sites being where the blue and white Niles converge.
We had been in Sudan 1 week and no sign of rain even though we were supposed to be here during the rainy season. Monday night at 3am the winds picked up and it hammered it down for 3 hours. In the morning we woke up in a small lake which was ok for the trusty 4 x4 but we had to pull the transit van out of the mud (a good way to kill a few hours of the day). Tomorrow morning we are off first thing to the Ethiopian embassy and then on our way towards Qallabat border to cross into Ethipia.
A short break in the plans, Jonny has flown back to the UK Khartoum (Capital of Sudan) to Dubai and then Dubai to Newcastle. He had promised a good friend of his he would be back to see him pull with his tractor puller that the two of them spent a lot of time building and the pull is this weekend the 25th of August. Unfortunatly it fell at a difficult part of our journey as Visas for Sudan are complicated. The original plan was for him to fly home and I would wait in Khartoum for 5 days for him to return. It turns out the visa is single entry and the hassle to get a new one huge so now the new plan. Luckily for us we have met a Polish Couple and so I will travel on with them for the next 10 days and cross the border into Ethiopia. Jonny will fly back to Addis Ababa (Capital of Ethiopia) and I will pick him up from the airport on the 3rd of August. Were we where camped in Khartoum was under the flight path and there was definitely a lump in my throat as I watched as his Emerates flight took off.
He is back in the UK on my mobile 07582690625 from 24th August till 3rd September.
After waiting 4 days for the end of Ramadan festivals to finish and the Ethiopian Embassy to open, we arrived to find out the Ethiopian president had died and therefore everyone was in morning and the embassy would be closed for more time but no one knew how long. Luckily we went back the next day and pleaded with them and after 3 hours Jonny and I had our Ethiopian visas. The last few days have been spent trying to sort visas, trying to find airline tickets and trying not to have accidents with cars, donkeys and TUK TUKS.
Tomorrow me, the truck and 2 Polish head for the Ethiopian border. Sudan was one of the countries Jonny and I were unsure about crossing but it has been great. The Sudanese people are so friendly and it feels very safe. For most part we were camped in the desert and therefore no internet so unable to post on the blog.
Hope you are all well out there
All the best
Terri and Jonny
- comments
David Barnes Hi Terry - your blog is better than any travel book I've read! Glad you got your visas and that you have good company for onward journey until you pick up Jonny again - worked out well you helping them out with the tow from mud then them keeping you company to Ethiopia. Hope you got to follow some of the olympics on world service - too good for words. Here we have just got back from a brilliant activity week in Brittany (highlight sand yacht racing) and are finally getting some summer weather. Looking foward to next installment of your epic adventure...
Matt Well done guys! Stay safe. I'll need you around when our film is released!
InstaTravelHub looks like you are having a great trip. love reading about your blog. if you want to share with more people come and join our travel community on facebook at www.facebook.com/instatravelhub It's community to share your travel experiences, photos and blogs. Click "like" to share and keep up to date with the latest travel experiences and photos from around the world.
Grant Great blog! It sounds like you're having a real adventure and truly are (several) thousand miles away from that Orange call centre! :) It would have been hilarious (but no doubt frowned upon!) if you'd have signed that alien register as E.T. :P
shell What a fantastic adventure so far it sounds amazing! Hope the rest continues to be the same. Take care of yourself & stay safe Shell xx