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Our Fantabulous Trip Around the Globe
As I write this, I'm sitting in a hospice for people with AIDS. We're in South Africa, not in Bloemfontein as we had planned, but just outside in a town called Ferreira.
We packed up and left Maseru on Sunday; Joy had left Lesotho on Friday. We decided to visit Thaba Bosiu, where the founder of Lesotho and all subsequent kings are buried. It was a really neat place and we were happy that we stuck around to see it.
Anyhow, Sunday morning we do some research, find out the location of the only hostel in Bloemfontein. We found a few guest lodges too, just in case. Off we go to walk across the border into South Africa, which took about an hour waiting in line at customs. Thank goodness we were in the right line. Then it was a short walk to the taxi rank (southern African speak for "bus stop") for our ride to Bloem. We ended up stopping part way through our journey, told to get out of the taxi because we need to get another taxi for the rest of the trip. Okay. (Welcome to traveling in Africa, where you never get the full story!)
We arrive in Bloem, no clue which direction to head in. We pick a direction and set off with our big bags. We figure a 4+1 (southern African speak for "taxi") will head our way. Someone Joel had met in the internet café warned us against taking African taxis because they drop you in bad places. Turns out to be true.
As we're walking, a white guy comes and says, "You're in a bad part of town. Do you need a lift?" We hop in the back of the truck and he and his friend take us to the hostel. No one there.
The owner of the truck, Carl, offers us one of his flats for a few days. We're about to accept his offer (where else will we stay?) when his friend Andrea, from NY/Italy, tells us his friend Deon runs a hospice for people with HIV. We're welcome to stay there if we're comfortable with it. Why not?
As we drove here, I started to get uncomfortable with the distance we were traveling. They hadn't mentioned that it was out of town. But we got here safe and sound and they have been amazing hosts. The generosity of South Africans is astounding.
All of the people here are living with AIDS, except Deon. Limpho and Geneva are the ones who have taken to Joel and I the most. They are quite young, under 5, and are not on ARVs. They are starting to show signs of their illness. They are so beautiful and affectionate.
Another cutie here is Max (Rethabile). She was placed in Deon's care by the courts because she was raped as a baby. Yet, she can't be more than 3. Maybe it's lucky that she won't live past 10, so that she'll never really have to deal with the crappy hand that life has dealt her. The same can be said about most of these kids.
Deon takes in the marginal ones, the ones who have no family, who will have no one else to mourn them once they are gone. This is a place where people come to die. It is one big family and they take care of one another. They all change the kids' diapers and they all look after the ones who are dying, with the knowledge that they'll get the same care when they need it.
Being here really tests my knowledge of HIV. Sure, I know that you can't get AIDS from a toilet seat or a bar of soap, but still I hesitate...
We were planning on going to Joburg right away the next morning (Monday), but have decided to stay for a bit. We will leave tomorrow (Wednesday). Today I realized how emotionally drained I am. I just need some time to decompress with a mindless novel. Instead, today we went to Sunflower House, a hospice for children that's on the grounds of a hospital in town. The majority of the children are positive, but not all of them.
As scary as we think Joburg will be, it will hopefully be void of too many emotional burdens. We will be staying at our friend Brennen's place (who, oddly enough, won't be there). We're considering getting a cell phone. Shocking for any of you who know us well. We figure it will be handy for safety and for planning future legs of the trip. Don't worry, we'll get rid of it before we come back to Canada!
I hope that Canada Day was a happy one for all! We were on top of a mountain, thinking about all of you enjoying the heat back home.
Take care and hug a kid.
:) M.
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