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Great weekend, but was very wet, drenched to the skin twice was enough for me and the goosebumps appeared, however, at least I could go back for a hot shower and dry clothes. Battambang is quite different to Siem Reap as it is not such a tourist place, although there were backpackers around plus vols working in the schools and orphanages.
We travelled their by local bus which cost 5$ and took three and half hours. It stopped once for a break and occasionally to drop people off. Nervous travellers do not need to travel like this as the bus is rarely on its own side of the road, there are constantly cows, bikes, motos etc to be avoided and overtaken. plus flooded roads and enormous pot holes that have to be negotiated. As I spent most of the journey talking there weren't too many grimaces and clenched fists, or muttering under the breath 'slow down'. By the time we reached the stop it had started raining heavily and I was desperate to go to the loo, this was the case for most of the other passengers, but they weren't bothered were they went and I had to walk through a line of men and women urinating. They obviously knew better than me because the make shift loo was awful, smelly and dirty so I just had to bite the bullet ang go whilst holding up my trousers and keepng the nostrils closed. But the relief made it worthwhile! Fortunately I haven't had too many experiences like that in all my time here - with crossed legs I have usually managed until my return here. You can tell the children that it really does evaporate.
Upon our arrival the bus was surrounded by tuktuk drivers trying to persuade us to go to their hotel and then use them to show us the sights of Battambang, eventually between the 4 of us we selected Mr Olas and he drove us to the Royal Hotel. We were shown the different priced rooms and allowed to make our choice - for the first time I succumbed to Air-con - 35$ for two nights - a bit pricy for here but... I was away for the weekend! After a quick dumping of belongings and organising of our itinerary with our driver we set off to discover the centre of town on foot. The skies darkened and rain threatened but we continued walking looking at the remains of the French colonial buildings and their attempt to pedestrianise the water front. Unfirtunately the rain soon started and we were forced to look for shelter in an eating place, 'Smoking 'Pot' where I enjoyes yet another fried yellow noodles with veg and a fried egg and a banana and lime shake to drink. This was all consumed whilst watching rain falling in torrents. After about an hour it eased so we continued in the grey murk, but it was a foolish decision as the furthest point away the heavens opened again and we had no shelter or rainwear and sod's law said there were no tuktuks about to ferry us back to our hotel. Eventually we were able to hail one back to our hotel, a shower and dry clothes. I just cannot imagine how the local people cope in their living conditions - no bathrooms, indoor cooking facilities or wash/washing equipment. And at the moment most places are surrounded by flood water to about knee level and depending on the height of their place inside too. Latyer that night we found another NGO who are teaching teenagers how to ccok and serve food - it was very good. I slept well in the air-con, great shame I haven't got it here.
After a breakfast of banana pancakes and coffee we were ready for our guided tuktuk trip on a beautifully sunny Sat morning. Our first stop was the Bamboo train, after bumpy and flooded lanes we arrived at its station! Fortunately I had seen pics of it so wasn't too shocked by what I saw - a flat bamboo strips base laying on two axles and four wheels, sitting on the base was an engine and a man. We set off on it to the next station, but when we met another one, the one with the least load had to be dismantled and lifted off the tracks. This was a numerous occurence, both for ones with locals on carrying their produce and ones carrying other visitors. A bumpy journey for about 45 mins there and back into the beautiful countryside mostly dominated by paddy fields, coconut palms and some banana trees. Along the way there were many people drying their rice on large sheets on the road side and some were drying chillies. I was surprised to see to beautifully manicured vineyards, but am still not sure whether they are for eating grapes or for wine. Eventually we arrived at Banan Temple, but the clouds were gathering and before us was a climb of approx 400 steps, very steep and steps that vary in height and width so they do not help to make a difficult climb easy. I managed well but the humidity did slow me down. At the top were five beautiful stone towers/temples and in the one a shrine, which people obviously came a long way to visit. Unfortunately once at the top the heavens opened and we had to squeeze into a one to shelter, but after a whille the clouds moved on and we were able to descend in the dry but upon slippery steps so I was somewhat nervous. As we set off to the next temple the clouds gathered, the rain started and didn't stop. All visibility disappeared, we got drenched in the tuktuk and the travelling over wet sand, bumps and lumps was not pleasant, it was frustrating too as there were wonderful rural sights to see, but not to photograph. When we arrived at the next temple that needed climbing the rain was no less, so suddenly we were surrounded by guys telling us that for 3$ they would take us up the mountain on the back of their moto. The thought terrified me, but after some pressure and my fear of missing something I agreed and they said they would give the safest driver to Madame! In my wringing wet clothes I got on and clung to the driver, he promised that he would drive steadily, but we very soon zoomed past the other three and up the mountain pass through blinding rain. I don't know if I was shouting or muttering, "Careful. careful, go slowly," but of course he took no notice and if the hair pins we went - me wishing that I'd made a will! To my relief we eventually stopped and I think I would have won the wet teeshirt comp. After looking around a pagoda the Khymer Rouge used it ffor killing the Cambodian people. Then we to the 'Killing Cave' and heard the gruesome ways in which the different strata of society were killed and then their bodies were thrown to the bootom of it. Today there are glass cases full of skulls on one side and limb bones on the others. Again the entrance was down very slippery and dangerous steps, and once we were inside it still managed to rain in and the cold began to set in too. We still needed to reach the top of the mountain to visit the temple, so another very unpleasant ride to the top, this time with water washing down like a river. Once at the top we were completely surrounded by cloud and torrential rain that showed no sign of abating so eventually four shivering bodies said we would miss the views and temple to go down. I was terrified! We were riding through a waterfall and nobody could see the road in front or the corners that needed to be negotiated. As you are fully aware I did survive and it was a miserable ride back to the hotel in our tuktuk. At least I could have a hot shower on my return and put on dry clothes. Of course once I'd done that I was warm again. After a sleep and wander around the market again it was time to leave for the circus.
I will add to this as there were more adventures to tell you about.
- comments
Lydia Rowe HI Jenny, don't faint , I have at last got onto a laptop. Bryony is helping me . I realy admire what you are doing and found your blog interesting but was a little upset for you concerning the toilet situation!!!! Everything is fine with me, your not missing much at school. Now that I have braved my husbans' new laptop and not broken it, I hope to read more of your blog. Will talk soon. Lydia
Lindsay Hanger Hi Jenny, have finally got round to reading about your adventures, it is half term so I have some free time. It all looks so amazing and I'm fascinated mainly because it isn't something I could imagine doing! My new job is very hard work, long hours, sleepless nights worrying about trivia, lots of new relationships to make and somehow to prove myself worthy! We are all well, Jenny is due to have her new baby in December and is blooming! Look forward to reading more about your travels soon, lots of love, Lindsayxx