DAY 5

Phortse Tenga (3680m) to Dole (4090m)

We walked out of jail and went onwards and up, passing more yellow rhododendron forests and some mini waterfalls. Some of the path had been blasted out of the cliff face where it was to steep and steps had been made from large rocks, the steps were always uneven and different sizes. You could get your whole foot on some while just your toes of others.






Today was a short day, we only walked for around three hours because we were quickly climbing high, so we ambled along at a slow pace. We stopped to acclimatise at a tiny village called Dole, nestled in a valley it had no more than six buildings. We picked the Yeti Inn, and got there in time for lunch, maggi packet mix tomato soup and a plate of popcorn. In the sleeping area we hunted around for a couple of extra duvets to go on top of our sleeping bags. It gets cold up here.

To help sleep and acclimatise, it's helpful to walk a little higher than the altitude you will sleep at and return back down. It was raining in the afternoon but I walked out with Tom, Emma and Khem, leaving Kat in her favorite place, her -5 feather down sleeping bag. She always look her happiest on this trek when she climbs into that sleeping bag each night. The four of us walked up a ridge behind the hostel in the rain. At the top the rain turned into snow and the temperature dropped. Then suddenly the snow stopped.




The cloud we were standing in had been blown away. The sun was shineing and we were rewarded with a magical view of Thanserku, Phuletate and Cholo, huge mountins close by. It was incredible how quickly the weather changes from a snow shower to clear views. We sat up on the hill for an hour, not wanting to leave. The sun started to dip below a ridge and we went back.





Dinner tonight was vegetable curry. Entertainment was provided by a two year boy who lived in the hostel called Tenzing. He walked around the dining room, staring at you in amazement, then throwing things around and knockng together the sugar bowls. We played cards in the evening and read books.







I'm reading Touching my fathers soul by Jamling Tenzing Norgay. Jamling is the son of the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay who accompanied Sir Edmunt Hillary, the first people to summit Everest. A Sherpa women had been quoted saying "Mikaru [white eyes, or Westerners] are much like cattle. They are happy wandering about aimlessly all day long..., they are constantly getting sick...., and you have to lead them by the nose over difficult terrain or they will fall off the trail..., But if you feed them well, they will produce a lot of rich milk for you". Her words made me laugh.

Cooper Out

Love Dan & Kat