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April 18-19 - We are spending two full days in Phrumsengla National Park in eastern Bhutan. We walk along PNR 2 (Phrumsengla National Road, better known as the East-West Highway) that runs right through the park. Although two lanes, it's only 10' wide with potholes; mostly paved except where water runoff has degraded it. Some traffic but still not enough to prevent cows from resting on the road. The narrow shoulders are gravel and grass and populated by leeches as we discovered after Wednesday night's rain. We watch each other's socks and pants for an "invader" or the bloody telltale signs of one.
As always hot breakfast and lunch are ready and waiting for us at the appointed times: 7:30ish and noonish. Cooked astoundingly in a portable kitchen, served on tables with tablecloths by 3-4 "waiters" aka crew who aim to accommodate our every desire, bowing as they proffer each dish. "Yes madam", "Please madam", their politeness sometimes takes one aback.
Good birds up here though some of them are frustratingly hard to find. Hearing them right along the bank, the vegetation is so dense they easily hide and jump location without a trace. Even seen ones can flit so quickly it's hard to see much less photograph.
Good birds found:
- Beautiful Nuthatch - another highly sought after endemic. We tried each day, finally nailing one Friday afternoon. Beautiful indeed with fine blue striping on head and wings, orange belly.
- Himalayan Cutia - a flash of rufous shoulder, white and black stripes on belly, black eye mask
- Black-faced Laughingthrush - black and white mask, brown back with subtle blue-grey wings
- Fire-breasted Flowerpecker - small, dark blue bird with light chin and belly, interrupted by a bright red breast patch and central black line. Showy.
Bad birds that wouldn't play nicely:
- Blue-winged Laughingthrush
- Slaty-bellied Tesia (definitely a tease)
- Cupwings (Pygmy or Scaly-breasted) - you can imagine how small they must be
- Partridges (Hill and Chestnut-breasted) hiding on the ground of all places under thick understory vegetation
Two good full days up at 5000-6000'. The weather, although changeable, has been kind to us. Next we head higher up for our final night of off-the-grid camping.
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