When travel plans don't fall into place naturally, you have to assume maybe it wasn't meant to be. While making my way up through Croatia, several travelers told me I must see the National Park. It is said to be have some of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world. After traveling in Croatia for a week, I was so eager to make my way to Chicken Paprikosh that I bypassed the park and headed straight for Hungary. Booking my last few days in Europe, I tried every avenue: train, bus and flight to get a chance to see Prague unsuccessfully. There was no way to make this happen. I even logged online and got my friend Erin to call United airlines on my behalf. I typed across the screen as she spoke for me to change my flight and leave from my connection in Frankfurt Saturday at 5pm instead of having to backtrack to Zagreb. Unfortunately, I was stuck with my flight from Zagreb. Waking up in the Swanky hostel this morning, I now understood why. Walking down to the counter to check what tourist attractions there were to see in Zagreb, the host pointed behind me to the big Poster on the wall that read "Plitvice Lakes National Park." The poster displayed colorful pictures of Aqua and turquoise water falls.
I turned back around and told her that I would like to sign up for the tour. She explained that it was already booked for today but I could go tomorrow. I frowned and told her unfortunately, I was going home to California tomorrow. I thanked her anyway and asked for directions to get coffee. "We have coffee in Kitchen!" she exclaimed. "I think I'll go grab a pastry from the bakery then" I told her. When I arrived back to the hostel with a fresh croissant, her face lit up as she told me she called and was able to book me on the 9am tour. Thrilled, I thanked her and headed toward the stairs to change. "I made you fresh pot of coffee!" She said eagerly as she pointed to the kitchen. I thanked her again and headed now toward the kitchen. "Would you like me to arrange for you to have a lunch on the excursion??" She asked eagerly. I nodded and thanked her again as she quickly picked up the phone and spoke in Croatian with a big smile. I couldn't believe how nice she was to me and so eager to accommodate. This really was the Swanky Hostel.
I walked in the kitchen and felt like I had walked into Restoration Hardware show room. This hostel was only two months old and felt nothing like a hostel. There was a beautiful bar off lobby, followed by a patio with a stone stairwell covered in Ivy leading to another outdoor patio. After drinking down a hot cup of coffee, I went up stairs to change. I had an hour before my van to the park would arrive.
At 9am, I walked through the passageway leading to the main street. I waited for the van to arrive and noticed a couple waiting as well. I asked if they were going on the Park Tour and they nodded. They asked where I was traveling from and after telling them California they told me they were from England.
After getting acquainted, the white van pulled up and an energetic Croatian man jumped out and opened the doors. "Two seats left in the front and one in the back!" He said as he pointed. I crawled into my seat in the way back of the extended van and sat next to two men. One Brazilian, Pedro and one American,Patrick from Chicago. The next row was a Parisian, Nikolas and two Spaniards. Our tour guide introduced himself as Mihovil, as he drove like a bat out of hell toward the park. He explained it would take two hours to reach the park, but he failed to mention it would be two hours and five cigarette break stops to reach our destination. He blasted 80's music, singing and weaving in and out of traffic as he raced around the windy curves throughout the countryside. Once we parked, he guided us to the front and did a head count. "I've only lost one person and he had to hitchhike home. Do not loose the group! We go!"
We hiked to the first view point, which was was an unbelievable view of a waterfall leading to an aqua pool of water. If this was the only view I got to see today, it was still worth the mineride treck to get here. It reminded me of one of those Magic Eye Posters when the image becomes clear, you see a view that is so brilliant, you almost assume its not real.
We hiked down the dirt path as Mihovil explained that this was the oldest National Park in Southeast Europe. at the end up the hill we reached an uneven wooden bridge. As we circled the first turquoise lake, I couldn't believe how stunning and clear the water was in this park. You could see all the fish, right to the bottom. We hiked up into a cave and he instructed us to turn the flashlight mode on our phones. Guiding the lights through the cool cave, ceiling sank lower and lower until I became claustrophobic. I turned back around and followed the sunlight back outside. We followed the rickety narrow bridge along the second turquoise lake. To think I almost didn't see this wonder of the world. It was so beautiful and our tour guide told us not a soul was allowed in the water because it would ruin the perfectly balanced PH levels of the Natural Park. After miles of hiking, the wooden bridge ended into an open park where we ate lunch. Correction, where they ate lunch. I ate my sandwich as I walked or would have stopped talking hours ago. As they ate, I hiked down to a view point over the lake and relaxed. I was so glad that I got to see this place, it was a great grand finale to wrap up my trip in Europe.
After their lunch concluded, I saw them circling by the west end of the lake and quickly made my way back to the group. Mihovil guided us into the woods as we followed a dirt path around the remaining lake. Hiking in front of me was Nikolas and behind, Pedro. Walking in silence, I couldn't help but break the ice. I asked Pedro if he could go back to any era, who would he be? He laughed and said he didn't know. He asked "What about you?" I told him "If I could go back, I would want to to be a Queen. So I would be Marie Antoinette." He sighed and said, "But then you would lose your head!" I told him if I were her, I would be sure to not loose my head. He replied, "Fine, if you're Marie Antoinette, I think I would be Christopher Columbus. So I could explore the world." I sighed, "But then you would have Syphilis!" He was confused and I told him how on a bike tour in Barcelona the guide told us, "Next time you're boyfriend gives you Syphillis, don't be mad at him- be mad at Christopher Columbus. He slept with many women and brought the disease to America." Pedro replied, "Well if I were him, I would be sure not to sleep with any women and catch Syphilis."Nikolas caught wind of our game and quickly chimed in who he would want to be.
We hiked around the lake for thirty minutes while the Brazilian told me every place I must see in South America. He also went on a road trip around the U.S. two years ago and was s really excited to share every stop he made in his month of travel. Once we reached the end of the path, we lined up to board a boat that would take us across the blue lake to the other side of the park. Pedro and Patrick had to break off. They were heading to Split to had to hike back to the front of the park to catch the bus. We all said goodbye as I waved to them and said "Good luck Christopher!" "Without the Syphilis!" He confirmed.
The boat ride across the lake was fast. We climbed more hills across the rickety wooden bridges that led us up and around the lake. On this part of the journey, now that I was the only American is where I got singled out. Mihovil turned to me and asked "Julie, why are American commercials so stupid?" I asked what he meant by the question. He grew very aggravated as he spoke, "In Croatia if there is a commercial for a car, a car will appear on the screen. During Super Bowl, I watch American commercial and there's a car with a hamburger and a coke and I have no idea if the commercial is for a burger, a car or a coca cola! Why don't you just get to the point and make it clear what the commercial is for in America!?!" Okay, I have no clue out of all the things to complain about, why this was his burning question but I just shrugged and continued walking. A few minutes later he went on, "I mean, just tell us what the commercial is for and don't make us guess!" I shook my head as I continued down the bridge, I have no clue why he cared so much. A few minutes later Nikolas asked Mihovil, Should we ask her?" Mihovil nodded and then asked, "Julie, why is it in America women do not marry for love any more and only marry for materialistic reasons? Do Americans not find love important?" All eyes, on me and no other countries were being drilled. I found it weird that commercials and marriage were their questions and more odd that they waited for The other American to leave to interrogate me with these silly questions. I shook my head and said not everyone marries for that reason. Nikolas went on in his strong accent to explain more in depth and I was growing impatient. I began walking away and Mihovil chimed in, "The problem is, and don't take this the wrong way Julie- but most Americans are not very smart." I believe that is when my jaw dropped. As Mihovils's mouth was moving, I wasn't listening to his words anymore. I was growing aggravated but in seconds made a decision that I felt sorry for him. He now began talking about geography and how "No Americans know where other countries are but Europeans learn every country and many languages." I shook it off and decided on one logical thing; I would not let this one person, ruin my time. So what if he thought every American was like The Housewives of Orange County. At the end of the day, would this one person change my perception of Croatia? No. I had an unbelievable experience and could care less if he thought Americans were all dumb because of a TV show. Now wrapping up his never ending conclusion on why America is not a good country, he said "I'm sorry if I upset you." I turned away and told him I didn't care. "I've upset her," he apologetically announced to the group.
We reached the car and I climbed into the back row and watched out the window as we pulled out of the park. I was beginning to wonder why I was placed with this tour guide who clearly wasn't very fond of Americans. I wondered if I would have had a better time if I had been with a different guide. I decided, against the thought. I did have a good time. I did have a wonderful tour and I wasn't going to let Mihovil's ignorance determine my level of fun today, or change my idea of any other Croatians like he was doing with Americans.
At the end of the day, people are entitled to have opinions. I just would never dream of being so blunt on my perception of other countries or people in general. I guess that's the difference. As I explored through Croatia, Hungary and Austria I was eager to learn and more importantly, listen. I didn't come to the table with assumptions. I came to the table with an open mind. I came on this trip with no expectation and was pleasantly surprised with a million new memories and lessons. Maybe this was one of them.
We rode through the country side and Nikolas nudged me. "Mihovil wants to know if you mind if we stop for dinner?" I nodded and said what ever the group wanted to do. We were supposed to be back at the hostel by 6pm but it was now 7pm and we still had a two hour drive. Mihovil's eyes met mine through the rear view mirror and he asked in a sweet tone, "Julie, would you mind if we stopped for dinner at an authentic Croatian Restaurant? You will not find this type of fresh veal in the city, I promise you this." I nodded in agreement. Why all of a sudden was he so nice to me?
We arrived to the table outside overlooking the beautiful countryside. Mihovil ordered in Croatian as described a big platter with his hands. He grew very excited and announced to all of us we were in for a great treat and that all the meat is very fresh. "Only killed in the morning and cooked same day! You will love!" He turned to Nikolas and motioned for him to have a smoke out by the parking lot. Nikolas confused pointed to the ashtray on the table. Mihovil replied, "I don't want to get smoke in Julie's face, lets go." He had smoked in my face all day on the trail but now got up and left the table.
Obviously Mihovil was beginning to feel very bad because now he was very kind. Either way, I wasn't holding it against him because I had already decided to not let him ruin my time. Our meal came and Mihovil motioned for the women to dig in first. We each dished out salad, veal and bread onto our plates. The veal was very tender and delicious. Mihovil reached for another piece of veal and placed it on my plate."You must try it with the skin Julie, this is the best part," he said very excited. Killing me with kindness, I was on to him. He did feel bad!
When the bill arrived, each threw in 80 Kuna and headed toward the van. Two hours of Mihovil's dangerous driving, I was actually surprised when I woke up and was still alive. It was now 10pm and we were supposed to arrive back 4 hours ago. Mihovil asked if I wanted to get coffee as he escorted us out of the van. "I thought you didn't like Americans?" I asked. "I like Americans, just not your commercials," he replied with a smile. I shook my head and said "No thank you." I thanked him for the tour as I walked back to the Hostel with the English couple.
I walked back to my room with mixed emotions. Did I help open someone's eyes or was he just feeling bad? Either way, I made up my mind. I still loved Croatia.
I returned to my bunk and found a note taped to the door. "Hi Julie, we'll be back at around 7pm today if you want to join us for dinner? Maybe see you then, enjoy Plitvice today! Annelies & Lynette."
I was so flattered that they had left me a note, unfortunately it was after ten so I had missed them. I went down to the front desk and asked the host if she had seen them. She told me, "Ah! They were looking for you! They have not returned from dinner." I asked her if she would let them know I would be outside on the patio. I heard a live band and would wait out there for them to return. I went to the bar connected to the hostel, turned in my ticket for a welcome shot and met another person in my hostel. He asked where I was from and I told him California. Before he could tell me, I guessed Croatian. He nodded, I was beginning to notice their dominate features. Croatians have beautiful unique eyes. He asked if I wanted to join him on the patio. There was a live band and he told me he was sitting with an American and Canadian. I nodded and he carried out a chair for me. We walked up the stone ivy steps to the second level. The patio was packed with people circling the band of four Croatians playing guitars. He introduced me to the table and I took a seat. The American girl was from Chicago and her name was Julia. We talked about our travel and it turned out we both had stayed in the same room at Hostel Emanuel in Split. After a short while, the Dutch girls had yet to show so I headed upstairs to shower. I still had on my bathing suit from the park.
Shortly after the girls arrived home and I joined them as we caught up on our day. They had explored the whole city of Zagreb and told me what I must see before my flight tomorrow. I didn't depart until 5pm so had the whole day to explore. I told them about the park tour and left out the part about the tour guide. They were doing the same tour in the morning. I'm sure they wouldn't be bombarded with his questions anyway.
So this was my last night in Croatia. I couldn't believe how quickly my journey had gone but it actually felt like I had been away for two months instead of two weeks. I was really glad I got to see the National Park and glad I got to eat in the countryside of Croatia.
In the morning, I was awakened by thunder and lightening. I ran to the window and it was pouring down over the patio. It didn't appear the girls were going to be making it to the park or that I would be touring Zagreb.
I walked to the bakery in the rain and got one last pastry, then headed to the kitchen. I poured a cup of coffee and propped up next to the windowsill as I gazed out at the rainy courtyard. It doesn't rain much in San a diego so I kind if missed this. I relaxed in the morning until Julia passed me, walking out of the shower. She asked if I was leaving today and I said yes, but not until 5pm. I asked her if she wanted to join me for lunch and she enthusiastically said yes. This would be fun today to have lunch with an American and share all of our experiences. I ran upstairs, packed up my bag and paid the host the 250 Kuna for the stay.
Julia and I walked to the post office so I could mail a post card. We got to know each other and her and I discovered we were a lot alike. Aside from both of us having the same initials JKK and being Julia and Julie, she was a world traveler and similar in age. She always explored alone and her favorite country so far was Thailand as well.
We reached an authentic Croatian Bistro and ordered fried sardines and a plate of calamari risotto to share. We talked about work, relationships and travel. I found Julia very brave and very interesting. I was wishing I had met her earlier on my trip and hated that we only had the afternoon. We each paid the 50 Kuna for our bill and had decided to spend the rest of the afternoon shopping for the perfect Croatian souvenir. As we turned the corner out of the restaurant, Julia asked "So what time exactly is your flight again?" I told her it was 5pm but decided it would be a good idea to double check the exact time. I pulled out my phone and skimmed through my email for the agenda. My face turned white and I threw my phone back in my purse. "I have to go!" Confused, she asked why. "My flight leaves my connection in Frankfurt at 5pm- it leaves Zagreb at 2:30pm!" She looked at her watch and said, it's 1:01pm, you better run!" I quickly hugged her goodbye and ran all the way back to the hostel. Now sweating, I asked the host how long to the airport. "You must take tram to Metro, 15 minutes. Then bus to airport 30-35 minutes." I looked at my phone and held my head in my hands. What would a Julie trip be without missing a flight? I asked if she could order me a taxi. "Taxi will take 25-30 minutes, I call." I paced out front until the taxi arrived and told him my dilemma. "I get you to airport, do not worry." I looked at the clock on his dash it read 13:31. I was growing nervous and he distracted me with questions. "Where do you come from?" I talked to him on the way to the airport and when we arrived he requested the payment of 150 Kuna. Problem number two: I had only enough Kuna to take the bus as planned. With only 30 Kuna left and no time to go to an ATM, I asked him if I could pay partially in Euro. He smiled and nodded "Of course!" I thanked him and pulled out my converter app on my phone. I handed the driver 16 Euro and 30 Kuna and ran out of the taxi. "Good luck!" He said before driving away.
I entered the terminal and the line was long. I had only 50 minutes and it was an international flight. Once I reached the counter and they handed me a ticket, I finally could relax. It appeared I would be making it back to America today.