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I woke up and pulled the drapes back to allow the sunlight to pour into my suite. Today I would be going on my elephant excursion. I quickly showered and packed my bag. Breakfast was served at 7am and then we would be working with the mahouts and elephants today.
I walked down the path to the main hut. Nine greeted me and guided me down to the path to the smaller hut where I would be joining a German family for breakfast. They never skimped out at Baan Chang. They always displayed excellent presentation in their meals. Once we reached the table, they lifted the covered baskets to reveal the fresh cut fruit, eggs and toast. They took great pride in serving their guests and asked several times throughout the meal if there was anything else we may need. The German family had two young boys and was very friendly. They asked me where I was from and my travel plans for the remainder of my trip.
After breakfast, the German mom, Susan and I sat at the hut and had a coffee together. I asked her how long her and her husband had been married and she replied, thirteen years. She asked if I was married and shook my head no. She asked how old I was and told me she did not get married until she was thirty years old. She explained to me that as you get older, what you are looking for in a man changes. She said she waited to settle down and become a mom until she was ready. She said now it is her whole world to make her boys happy and that she picked the right husband and father of her children. I wasn't looking for someone to confirm that how I was operating was right but it did make me feel better to hear that she shared the same belief. What I wanted even two years ago is different than what I want now. She smiled at me as she took another sip of coffee and said "You have plenty of time."
After breakfast we joined four more people from Spain and England. Nine handed each of us navy blue gowns to change into at the camp. Our guide, Tom explained that every guest that comes to the sanctuary must wear the navy gowns so the elephants know to trust the people wearing this color. Every morning at the same time, the elephants have become accustomed to people wearing blue gowns walking out to feed them bananas and bamboo. After feeding, they know that training will come followed by a walk through the jungle and a bath. It is the routine they follow and trust.
Tom went on to explain that the Baan Chang Elephant Sanctuary was established by his boss in 2007. He explained that Baan means "Home" and Chang means "Elephant." He told us that his boss is a very good man and extremely passionate about elephants. He told us many elephants are bought to train for shows and abuse them for tricks and riding fees. He told us that it hurts the elephants to have carts strapped on them and that his boss wanted to create a safe habitat for rescued elephants. In his vision, he hoped to teach the importance of elephant preservation. They now have twenty one elephants in their sanctuary and allow guests to join them in training, bathing and riding bareback. Tom told us that many people ask why they don't have electric fences to keep the elephants in the park but he told us that maintaining the elephants is very expensive. On average, elephants eat about five hundred pounds of food a day. They can drink over fifty gallons of water a day and they have to multiple that by twenty one because that's how many they house. Tom told us rather than expensive fences, they prefer to spend the money they collect on food and medicine for when the elephants. I thought about what I paid to come to Baan Chang and it was $170 for the entire trip including rafting, hiking, elephant training, transportation, hotel and every meal as well as unlimited water. With the way the staff treated you, waited on you and talked about the sanctuary, you could tell they weren't in this for the money. They were all very passionate about caring for elephants.
Throughout the day I noticed each Mahout who was assigned to an elephant had a unique bond with their animal. Even Tom would yell at the elephant when they were being stubborn but then go up and pet them on their trunk and talk like someone would their dog, praising them and laughing at how they know better.
To start our day of training, Tom walked us over to a hut with piles of bananas and bamboo. We loaded into straw baskets and carried over to the elephants. He instructed us how to place the food right in the elephant's mouths. I walked up to the first elephant and placed a banana bunch into the elephant's mouth as his tongue grazed my fingers. He waved his trunk around with excitement eager for more. This is the closest I had ever been to an elephant and was so mesmerized on how gentle they were. I returned to the basket and grabbed a stack of bamboo and fed it to the next elephant. They let us pet them and take pictures as they ate their breakfast. We walked around and fed the elephants until all the baskets of food disappeared.
After the feeding, Tom gathered all of us around a hut and explained that all the Mahouts were Burmese so today we would have to learn the elephant commands in their language. He taught us the basics of learning how to drive an elephant in thirty minutes. First he went through directions right, left forward and stop all in Burmese. He taught us how to command the elephant to lie down and how to climb your way up their leg and hold tightly to their ears until they have fully risen. Next, he showed us how you scoot your body all the way up to their neck and place your hands on the top of their head. After the demonstration, he clapped his hands together and told us it was time for us to go on a test drive. He showed us the course which was a loop around a tree using the Burmese commands.
One at a time, we climbed up the elephants thick legs and positioned ourselves at the top of their heads. Driving the elephant was much easier than I thought. To turn right, you simply nudge their ear with your left foot. To turn left, you kick with your right foot. I made my lap around the tree, returned and slid back off my elephant.
We took a quick break and the rounded up for our elephant ride through the jungle. We each were assigned an elephant and followed the trail leading away from the camp. Initially, it was hard to let go and be at ease with riding a twelve foot tall animal bareback, with nothing to hold on to but its head. Once you make it up the first hill, you learn to just relax and let your feet hang loose as the elephant takes a leisurely walk through their back yard. Everyone's elephants seemed to listen to their commands. However, my elephant was a young, twenty-three year old and very rebellious. Throughout the trail, she would stop to eat trees, bark, use the bathroom and do whatever she pleased.
We stopped for a break and the elephants all kneeled down so we could slide off and break for fruit. They walked away and brushed their gigantic bodies up against trees, itching their backs and sides. Our guide went on to tell us that when an elephant is pregnant with their first newborn, they carry for twenty two months. Once born, the older female elephants charge at the mother, knocking her over and open the sack to unleash the baby elephant. Once the mother sees it's a baby, she embraces it and begins to breast feed. The elder elephant always has to interject with the first born because elephants do not know they are pregnant. If they give birth alone, they stomp on the unknown sack that caused them pain for the past twenty two months, unaware what it is. Tom shared lots of random facts with us about elephants but would add in jokes to keep our attention. He, like every person at the camp truly loved working at a place that supported such a good cause.
We wrapped up our break and the elephants returned, laying down for us to climb back up to their neck. We took the dirt trail through the bright green jungle. The elephants moved very slow but covered so much ground. It was different to be passing through the jungle high up near the trees. Walking down the steep hills was the scariest part of the ride. Your lose your balance as their body slowly drops from side to side on each step downhill. After making down the last hill, I repositioned my body and relaxed. Looking out at the horizon, I shook my head and smiled. This was such a surreal experience to be in Thailand, let alone riding an elephant.
After making our way back out of the jungle we arrived to a large pond. Tom handed us each a bucket and brush. We got in the water with the elephants and brushed all the dirt off their bodies. My elephant lay down in the water on her side and took a nap as I scrubbed her ears, head and body. After their baths, it was time for us to shower so the elephants walked back to the feeding grounds as we walked back to the main hut.
Once cleaned up, they had lunch waiting for us under the hut. They removed the baskets to reveal sweet and sour chicken, plates of pineapple and bowls of white rice. Over lunch the couple from Spain asked where I was staying. I told them a hostel in the Northwest district and they told me they booked a really nice hotel near the Night Bazaar for cheap. I decided instead of going back to the hostel that I would splurge tonight and upgrade to a hotel. After riding an elephant all day, I wanted to get a good night's rest.
Tom crammed all nine of us in a van to take us back to our hotels in the city. I heard someone shouting my name from behind. I turned around and saw Ramona and Kris on elephants waving goodbye. I waved back and climbed in the van. As we pulled out of the Baan Chang, I was happy. I had done what I came to do on this trip. I was no longer wrapped up in things that are unimportant. I was in a blue gown all day, learning how to drive an elephant and meeting people from all over the world. I was crying at stunning views and singing "Let it Be," even though I didn't even know all the words. Most people I met on this trip would ask how long my holiday was and when I would tell them two weeks, I would get the same response. "That's not enough time." To me, that's a very long time to be on vacation but in other countries, they take months at a time. For me, this was plenty of time to regroup, gain a new perspective(or two) and just relearn how to be unstructured. Not having a plan and just going with the flow is the best plan a person can have. On this trip, I have been roaming around, making decisions day by day, sometimes by hour. All arriving me to the same end result- another great adventure.
Tom dropped us each off at our hotels around the city and I followed the Spaniards. They asked if I wanted to see their room first before I paid for a room. I shook my head told them I'm sure it's great; they live in Barcelona I believed they had good taste.
I walked up to the glamorous Thai hotel and saw an infinity pool through the lobby. This was a bit of an upgrade from the hostel. The front desk clerk greeted me with a bow. I asked if they had availability and they said they had one room left for
฿2200. My hostel was only ฿250 so I contemplated if I really should book or just go back to a bunk bed tonight. As I stood aside, two backpackers walked in and asked if they had availability. The clerk smiled and said "Yes, we have one room available left for ฿2200." I quickly chimed in "I'll take it."
The clerk turned to me smiled, then turned back to the backpackers and said, "Sorry, we now have no availability."
That was close, I apologized to the backpackers and they shrugged and said "You were here first!"
The clerk picked up my bag and led me past the infinity pool and up the wooden staircase to the third floor. The walkway to my room had a beautiful sneak peek of the mountains in the distance. She showed me to my room, demonstrated how to use the key in the wall for air and electricity and that breakfast was served at 7am-10am. The room was very nice and double the size of a normal hotel room. In the corner lay a large circular bamboo couch with bright colorful Thai pillows. A glass door opened to a balcony with a built in cushioned bench, overlooking the pool below. I walked out to my balcony and heard a hello from my left. I looked and the Spaniards waved. They were in the room right next to mine.
I started the coffee pot and picked up the phone to cancel my room at Gongkaew Hostel. I had trouble dialing out because I would hear three beeps and then a sentence in Thai that I couldn't understand. I called down to the front desk and they instructed me how to place local calls you have to hit 053 and then the number. Ten minutes later, I placed the call to Gongkaew. I told them I would no longer need my reservation for tonight or tomorrow. The host thanked me and just before I hung up she said "Oh Julie! One last thing. Your friend left message for you." "My friend? Oh Silvia?" I asked her.
"No, not Silvia. Man, he ask for you." she replied.
"A man? Who?" I asked.
"Not sure, oh wait- his name Michael" she quickly spit out.
"Oh yes, Michael! Thank you, I'll send him a message right now." I told her.
I forgot Michael was flying to Chiang Mai after his trip down South. I logged onto Facebook and told him I got his message and was staying at The Vieng Mantra Hotel in the city.
After having my coffee on the balcony and relaxing, I heard my hotel phone ringing in the room. I jumped up and ran inside to pick it up.
"Julie, you have a visitor in lobby. He want to talk to you." There was a pause and then a heavy Australian accent said "Hello Julie! Do you know who this is?"
"Michael!"
He told me he had just arrived to Chiang Mai and wanted to pop in and say hi and meet up for dinner. I ran downstairs and hugged him. I asked him how his trip was and told me he had plenty of stories but wanted to get checked in a hotel first. He found one down the street for cheap. He asked if I wanted to meet back up at 7pm. I told him that sounded great and that I had another friend joining us as well, Silvia.
As I climbed the staircase back to my room, I thought to myself how great this was. The whole point of staying in hostels over hotels was to meet people to explore the city with. Now that I have, I could meet them out tonight and sleep in a real bed. I sent Silvia a message on Facebook that we would be meeting at my hotel at seven and she replied back that Carolin would be joining us as well.
I showered and quickly got ready for dinner. Once I reached the lobby, Michael was waiting with another straggler he had picked up, traveling alone. Her name was Fiona and she was from London. A few minutes later Carolin and Silvia arrived and our big group head to the Night Bazaar.
It's funny how you go from traveling completely alone to meeting up with friends whom you feel comfortable with right away. In a foreign country, it's easy to find yourself close to someone immediately. When transferring from hostel to hostel or from one city to the next, you have to have your guard up. Once you meet someone who is doing the same, you can relax because there are two of you. You don't have to be as alert and aware of your surroundings, it's like you get to go on break. For me, I like the fact that someone else can be the navigator because I find myself getting lost a lot.
We all climbed in a Sangtaew and headed to the market. We steered through the aisles of endless souvenirs, and I walked with Silvia to catch up on the last two days of her trip. She and I were a lot alike. She is very positive and talked about the things that didn't go according to plan with her elephant excursion and how she just rolled with it. She too had an ornery elephant, but found it funny. Once we reached the food market there was a huge line for noodled dishes so I left and just tried something at a different stand. I still hadn't tried Red Curry so ordered a plate and grabbed a table. Fiona was still in line when Silvia walked over with her plate of food. I asked how she got it so quickly and she shrugged her shoulders and said it wasn't what she wanted but they made two orders of this for a person in front. She said she would buy it since it would go to waste. Silvia's confidence and free spirited attitude was contagious. I knew she would be just fine roaming around all these countries by herself. It wasn't about the dish she ordered but just what I noticed about her outlook on everything in the short time that I met her, I admired.
Now sweating from the mistake I made by ordering Red Curry, we talked about her plans for the remainder of her trip following Thailand. She was flying out in the morning. I was sad that I didn't get to spend more time with her but was glad that we met up tonight.
Around ten we all headed back to the city and I told the group I was off to bed. The elephant excursion wore me out and I had to figure out where my next hotel would be. Vieng Mantra was fully booked for tomorrow night. I said goodbye to everyone and Silvia said she would walk me back to my hotel and take a Tuk Tuk back to Gongkaew. Once we reached my place, I hugged her goodbye and took the staircase up to my room.
Another day down in Thailand and I am still having the time of my life. I love waking up and not knowing where I'm going to stay or who I'm going to meet. Earlier today I didn't even know about Vieng Mantra Hotel, I thought I'd be sleeping in a bunk bed again. Now I just arrived home from dinner and shopping with friends. If you can open your mind to the unplanned events, then you may just surprise yourself on how many good things spin from that one change of direction.
- comments
Kristen The elephant ride sounds so fun!! :)
Bob Todd Loved your picture on the elephant. Glad you are having such a great time on a GREAT adventure. You are something else!!
The Royal OC King You drove an elephant huh? Well, I can drive a manual & automatic car!!! NOW WHAT?!?!? I'm amazed! Not jealous..... Because that would take away from my excitement for you!!! Glad you are enjoying this. Way to Splurge on the hotel too. Have some fun!!