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I opened my eyes to the tall cement ceiling above me and realized I wasn't in my apartment- I was in Thailand. I sat up on my bunk and looked around to all the other sleeping bodies in bunks around me. After turning on my phone and it reading the screen: August 3rd, I was too excited to sleep any longer.
I climbed down my bunk and headed downstairs for breakfast. I found Michael sitting at the bar so joined him and ordered a croissant and coffee. A few minutes later, Gene rolled down and joined us for breakfast. They both wished me a Happy Birthday and asked what my plans were today. I told them that I had a whole list of things I wanted to do. I gave them a brief overview of the items on my Bangkok bucket list and they nodded their heads expressing interest. The first one was the fish foot massage. I thought for sure they would deny this request but Gene said he has wanted to try this one as well. I brought up the sandal hunt for new shoes and Michael said he was in the market to go shopping as well. I squeezed in my final request, which was to give merit at a temple. They both agreed that we all should give merit today and that the one spot they wanted to check out was Skybar tonight. I clapped my hands together with excitement and told them it was settled then. I asked if I had time to take a quick shower and they agreed to meet in the lobby in an hour.
As I climbed the staircase back up to the fourth floor, I was so thrilled. My biggest fear was not that I would be robbed, but that I would be spending my birthday alone. Instead we had entire list of things to do and I felt extremely lucky to be in such a different world on my birthday. Once I reached my room, one of my roommates Laura was on her computer in her bunk. Every time I came in the room she was on her laptop so I decided to ask if she wanted to join us today. I told her our plans and she quickly replied yes. You could tell she had been waiting for someone to just ask. I told her our plan and to meet us in the lobby in an hour. I quickly showered, threw clothes and dashed down the stairs.
The boys and Laura were patiently waiting; I had been a little late. The blow dryer in the hostel is as slow as molasses. I introduced the boys to Laura and we headed to the massage parlor down the street. I told them that I had passed one on the way to the market yesterday. We arrived to the parlor and the price was ฿250 for a thirty minute fish massage. In a fish massage, you dip your feet into a tank of warm water filled with garra rufa fish. The fish swim around your feet and eat the dead skin off, leaving your feet very soft.
The four of us lined up on the bench and one by one dipped our feet into the tank. It was my mad idea to do this massage but I was the most squeamish. I slowly eased one foot and after the first nibble screamed and immediately yanked my foot out. It was the most uncomfortable feeling I can possibly begin to describe. It is not painful but it just does not feel natural. The boys gave me a hard time and I looked down to their feet covered in little fish sucking every inch of their toes. I soon changed my mind and didn't want to participate but they would not let me sit this one out. They told me I had to put my feet back in, so I did and released several screams throughout the process. The boys kept telling me that you just have to tell your brain that you are okay with it. It's a whole new way of letting loose. I know it may sound easy, but to trick your mind that it is okay when fish are feeding off of your feet is quite the challenge. I took a deep breath and tried to relax. After a few minutes, I would start to be okay with it and then a few more nibbles would throw me off and I would begin screaming again. We all were laughing on and off at how incredibly uncomfortable this massage truly was.
The spa served us hot tea and we learned about Laura's background. She was from Texas and her dad was in the film business. Gene works for Paramount Pictures in Hollywood so we talked about the movie business for a while enduring the fish eating our toes. I learned that Gene likes working for Paramount but his true passion is to write screen plays one day. It made since to me because he's very funny and descriptive when he tells a story. I wondered if in a few years, I would be watching his writing on the big screen and telling the person next to me that I met that writer in Thailand.
After our glorious massage we all noted how incredibly soft our feet truly did feel after it was all said and done. Next up on the list was to go to a temple. We headed down Silom Street and a man approached us asking if we needed directions when Gene had is map out for the entire city to realize we were tourists. The man told us all the places we must shop and that we could take the Tuk Tuk that now had pulled in front of us. The local circled all the must see's for us to stop in to and shop and Gene was thanking him for all of help. The man said it was the least he could do and that he was happy to help. He began to circle more places when Michael cut him off in Thai, rambled a few things and guided us away.
Gene and I were puzzled and asked why we were leaving and Michael filled us in that all Thai locals get a cut if they send tourists to stores they have connections with. Here we had fallen for it and were ready to visit every circle now on our map and thanking this man for taking time out of his day just to help us. When really, he was just trying to make money. Michael was from Australia but was the only one in our group that knew any Thai. I knew the basic greetings, Laura knew the sky train and Gene knew...well he didn't know a whole lot but was good company.
The sky train was very modern and we passed through the city of Bangkok which was so extremely different then I imagined. One minute you're gliding past futuristic skyscrapers, the next passing by the most poverty stricken neighborhoods. It's not like most cities where you ease from one neighborhood to the next.
Laura was the guide today and we followed her through crowd of people once we arrived to our stop at the river. She led us down to the boat docks to buy a ferry pass. We had to wait a half an hour until the next ferry so walked up and down the dock, taking pictures and I got to know Laura better. She told me that she is going for her Masters in English because she wants to be a Special Ed Teacher. She confided in me about her Dyscalculia, similar to dyslexia but with Math. She went on to explain that it's a learning disability where you have difficulty in learning or comprehending Mathematics. She joked about why whenever we are converting Baht to Dollar she gets easily confused. She told me that is why she wants to teach English because Math is not her strong suite. I admired Laura for being so honest with something she clearly did not have to tell me. Her personality was like that though and it inspired me to be more honest about things that I may not be good at. We can pretend all day long that we don't have flaws but in reality, we know that is not true. I tried to make a light joke and decided that while she was teaching me a lesson that maybe I was sent to pull her out of her dorm. She did mention to me that I was the first person to finally ask her to do something since she had been there. My heart filled with happiness that I had extended the invitation to someone who was needing it today. I was glad that Laura had joined our little crew and that I had somehow made her day special, she did for me.
On the boat ride down the river, the woman on the loud speaker announced that only six people could go on the bow of the boat at a time. Michael and I popped up to take a view. From the front, you could see the entire skyline of Bangkok. It was so bizarre to me how very different Bangkok turned out to what I thought up in my head. I didn't expect to see so many skyscrapers but I did know that there would be a lot of areas that brought you to tears on how people lived in such poverty. While floating down the river we passed old houses that were on it's very last breathe. The structure looked like with one gust of wind, it may just crumble. Then in a matter of a minute's time, we were passing temples and restaurants lining the river. The range of areas was so extreme. I stood up against the railing on the front of the boat and took it all in. Another moment of feeling, how the hell did I get here? Three weeks ago, I was sitting at my computer with a spontaneous thought, "Bangkok for my twenty-ninth?" Now here I was riding on a boat down the Chao Phraya River.
Laura motioned for us to get off at the Phra Nakhon District. It was now nearing 2pm and I apologized to the group in advance that I start to shut down when I'm hungry. They laughed and reminded me that it was my Birthday so we could stop at any restaurant and eat lunch on the way to the temple. We walked through the markets and found an empty table on the streets and ordered lunch. I decided today to try Green Curry. One by one, everyone was served their meal and I was left fidgeting with my napkin. I told them to carry on and not wait for me to eat but they kept flagging the server to ask where my dish was. She would say something in Thai that we couldn't understand and walk away. After everyone was halfway through the meals, Michael pointed out that this would only happen to me and thought this was just another addition to my good (or very bad) luck. I felt bad because I could tell the table was eating very slowly, interrupting their own meals to call the server over several times to see where my food was. Each of them gave me a bite of their meal so really, it was more like a little tapas birthday lunch for me anyway. Finally, my meal was served with no explanation and I was just happy to try the real deal Green Curry. It was delicious.
With full bellies, we crossed the street to tour the Wat Pho Temple. This is one of the biggest tourist attractions in the Phra Nakhon district in Bangkok. Wat Pho is the largest temple in Bangkok and famous for its huge reclining Buddha. The Buddha is 160 Feet long and covered in gold. We inched our way through the crowd to catch a glimpse and I was in awe of how I somehow got to see this with my own eyes. It truly was a sight to see. It's not every day you see a 160 foot Buddha in Bangkok. We took our touristy pictures and explored through the temple complex. We walked in and out of several temples and I began to experience what I had hoped to in Thailand- peace and quiet (in my thoughts). I realized that all day long my mind is racing with things I need to check of my list for work, items of tasks that can't wait until tomorrow. Conference calls at work that I get anxiety to sound like I know what I'm talking about, even though I do know what I'm talking about. The pressure of my every day motions leave me wired when I get off work and what was happening right at this moment was why I flew nineteen hours to get to this temple. It was a mind eraser. When you walk into a temple, you have to remove your shoes and remove your thoughts. You can't talk to your neighbor; you can't pull out your cell phone. You just sit down, close your eyes and do absolutely nothing. The only thing I did do was say thank you quietly in my head.
I walked out of the temple and turned to the boys who were now quiet too. Laura had stayed outside the temple because she had already toured it yesterday but I told the boys my theory on why I was so relaxed. I asked if they thought it was therapeutic that we weren't allowed to talk or think. That for the last hour we've been walking in and out of temples in this complex, essentially slowing down our minds that run a million miles per hour every day. They agreed and then led me to one more temple before heading back to find Laura. In this temple there was a Fortune Teller Box. Michael explained that you shake a cup full of red sticks while making a wish. You then pull out a stick and read the number. Each number has a box below associated to it where you draw a fortune. I watched Michael go through the motions and then I followed. My number was One, I pulled my fortune from the cubby and it read as follows: "Wishes will soon be fulfilled, support received, plans accomplished. Better not rush. Family enjoyable, Patient recovering. Lost persons will be found. Good lucks gradually approaching. Discovering mate who could become a good match."
Next up on our agenda was Khao San Road, in Banglamphu District. This street is known as "the centre of the backpacking universe". In order to get there from Wat Pho we had to take a Tuk Tuk. Tuk Tuk's are little miniature cabs that look like bikes with canapes and are named after the sound they make. They are as fast a cab but can weave in and out of traffic. This would be our first experience and I was a little nervous, as I should have been. The minute the four of us crammed into this tiny motor car, he hit the pedal and did a U-turn in the middle of traffic. A car slammed on its breaks as it nearly crushed into our cab. Without flinching or even swearing, the Tuk Tuk driver continued on with his turn and wove in and out of buses to take us to Khao San Road. Several times I was afraid for my life, more so than any point in my trip.
The driver pulled up to our stop and I couldn't be any more relieved to get out into the streets filled with vendors hassling us for a good deal. We passed so many vendors who were shoving everything from sunglasses, t-shirts, purses, to fruit and strange looking meat down our throats. It was vendor after vendor of knock-off Ray Bans, Nikes, Puma's and designer purses. I bargained with a vendor and bought another dress, this time one that appears long enough. We walked down the entire stretch and each bought something along the way. One thing that was disheartening was that this was these people's every day. They wake up and have no choice but to hassle every person that walks by as their kids play in the back behind their stand. It makes you appreciate what you have and realize that on a bad day, is it really that bad? Next time you're complaining about your cable bill being incorrect or your boss giving you a project with an unrealistic timeline- is it really that unrealistic? Or would living a life like this be?
After making our way through the entire stretch of Khao San Road, we unsuccessfully did not find me a pair of shoes for the bar tonight. Gene was told that the best view of all of Bangkok was at The Skybar is a few blocks from our hostel and rests on the 63rd floor of the dome at the State Tower. Skybar is one of the world's highest open air bars, overlooking a panoramic view of Bangkok and the Chao Phraya River. Skybar also has a dress code and does not allow flip flops so when everyone headed back to the hotel I headed back down to the market in search of heels. Sure Khao San Road had name brand tennis shoes but I couldn't exactly wear Nike's to the bar. I walked up and down the market passing more knock off puma's and Birkenstocks when I came across a table lined with random used items. Sitting right in the middle of the table were white peep toed heels. I slipped them on and they fit perfectly. I called into the restaurant where the table was propped up against and the woman came out. I bargained with her and got my birthday shoes for ฿150. Now I was set for my birthday night out in Bangkok.
I headed back toward the hostel and stopped in to a massage parlor to get my daily Thai massage. I didn't realize how much walking we truly had done today so relaxed and enjoyed this unexpected birthday in Thailand. After my massage, I headed back to the hostel with one hour to shower and get ready for Skybar. I went to pull my locker key from my bra when I realized it was missing. My mind looped back to me changing into the pajamas at the massage and it must have slipped out onto the floor. I would have to run back and grab the key. When I walked back in they looked surprised to see me and laughed at my mistake. I talked to them for a while when the owner tried to school me on how to carry my key. She gave me a plastic baggy to keep the key in my purse instead but I told her if my purse was stolen I would have no way to get my locker open. I promised her I wouldn't be removing my bra anytime soon again and she let me go, wished me a Happy Birthday and asked me to come back tomorrow.
I raced upstairs and jumped in the shower. I was so excited to be spending my birthday night at the top of the best view of all of Bangkok. When I got out of the shower a girl was applying her make up in front of the mirror and asked what I was doing tonight. I told her that I was going to Skybar for drinks with friends for my birthday and she said that her and her girlfriends were too going to the same bar. Her name was Kerry and she was from York, U.K. Most every person I met on this trip was from England. She asked if I was going with my friends to the same bar if we were interested in all going together. I smiled and replied of course. She grew excited and told me she was thrilled and would go tell her friends that she found more people joining them. She raced out the bathroom while I was blow drying my hair and then came back in with her three girlfriends and introduced us. Emma, Annie and Sarah all introduced themselves with their lovely English accent that I adored. They asked if it was my birthday and grew enthusiastic that I would be lucky enough to celebrate in Bangkok. We finished getting ready together in the bathroom as we talked about their travels through Thailand thus far.
I threw on a dress and my new heels and headed downstairs to meet with everyone. As I walked down the staircase, I shook my head. Here I was in Thailand, going to my birthday party with all these new friends who were already making my night memorable by just being excited that it was my birthday. It makes me wonder if everything does happen for a reason because yesterday I was exhausted and jet lagged and slept through the night. Today, I just happened to run into Gene and Michael this morning at breakfast who led me around Bangkok all day and then just happened to shower at the same time as Kerry. If I had not dropped that key at the massage, I would not have run into her getting ready in the bathroom at the same time. Now we were all jumping in a cab and pulling up to the most exclusive bar in all of Bangkok with six new friends to celebrate my twenty-ninth birthday. I felt like the luckiest girl on earth.
We pulled up to Valet and the building was immaculate. We had been staying in hostels and walking through street markets the last two days. Now we were all cleaned up, dressed to impressed and taking the elevator up to the 63rd floor.
The elevator doors opened and large mirrors lined the walls with stunning fresh flowers and low beam lights. We were guided by a host to the large staircase with gold rails to wait for the rest of our party. We were separated at the bottom because there was a long line like a Vegas club hotel. Once Sarah and Emma rejoined us we were escorted through glass doors to a wide balcony overlooking all of Bangkok. A live jazz band played on the balcony and another staircase led us down to a water fountain and then another staircase to Skybar. It was by far the nicest bar I have ever been to in my entire life. The look on every ones faces was priceless, especially after trekking around the city today. We all started laughing at how stupid it was that we even could arrive at a place so immaculate. I shook my head in disbelief as Kerry squeezed my arm and asked if I was having a good birthday. I was having a great birthday. We all got cocktails, took pictures on the balcony and had an unbelievable time at Skybar. It was very classy, it wasn't a club- it was a beautiful venue. It was just the perfect setting to spend an unforgettable evening out in Bangkok.
So there you have it. I do not regret taking off on this crazy adventure. It just showed me that in any scenario if you are willing to put yourself out there and open yourself to others, they will be just as happy to celebrate a birthday or any special marker in your life. Gene told me later in the night that he didn't think of it until I brought it up at Wat Pho but that he was at peace with himself today. He hadn't realized how much he gets stressed at Paramount or in his everyday world in Los Angeles. He had been racing around Thailand for the last week even, trying to check everything off his list until he realized at the temple when I made the comment to him that we finally just let our thoughts rest. He hadn't realized how good it did feel to slow down or that he needed to. He would be flying home tomorrow and felt like he got what he needed to out of this trip now.
Michael was on a high too. He said this was the nicest bar he had ever been to and a week ago if someone had told him he would be on the roof top of the best view of all of Bangkok, he wouldn't believe them. This trip was the first one Michael had done on his own and he was learning a lot about himself in the process. He was lit up like it was his birthday as well. The girls were laughing and toasting me asking if I was having the best birthday. They were incredibly sweet and I was just happy that everyone was having a great time. It felt good to see everyone surrounding me on this trip experiencing what I was as well. We all came for the same reasons. Everyone had their realities back at home but took a leap of faith to fly to Thailand and remove themselves from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, work and stress. Sarah talked to me about her job in the Security business back in England, Emma talked to me about teaching students and Kerry spilled about her relationship with her boyfriend. All just meeting in a bathroom hours before but talking like old friends and sharing a moment on a rooftop in Bangkok. This was the moment I was looking for, this was the birthday I was hoping for and these were the people I knew what somehow change my year.
I was just excited that I had already stumbled into them after my second day. Now I could just relax, explore and get more Thai massages.
- comments
Bonnie Your Blog made me cry. Ifelt so happy for you. Happy Birthday. Love, Mom
Please Dont Hurt Em "Hammer"..... on cassette tape "I clapped my hands together in excitement. " My kids are three and a half and 14 months. They do the same thing..... I guess it happens at any age. Pretty awesome fortune. #1 is a good number. Glad it had a positive "future/fortune" that I have a a strong feeling you will look back at for weeks/months to come, and place a person/event/circumstance to show a relationship with what your fortune said. I understand that completely. Continue to do what you're doing. I have a feeling you will enjoy this entire trip and return home ridiculously relaxed from all of the massages.
Here Comes the "Hammer" And your mom is very sweet ;)
Dad Happy Birthday , everything you have done sounds like it was fun, but when are you going to ride a elephant ?????
Kristen And Adam says "ask her how long the line was to get in for the fish foot massage" I have kept up with your blog every day, and was scrolling through and realized I had missed this one! Glad you had such a nice birthday!! :)