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El Calafate doesn't seem to have caught on to broadband yet. Everything is at a Snails pace so my patience are being tested. I said it before but I seem to be getting worse, Patience is not a virtue i have required when it comes to the internet!! Anyway I have had a really lovely few chill days. Yes, i know some of you must be laughing!! You must think that this is a constant chill but I have done some serious travelling over the past few week, up early for excursions , to catch buses and the likes. It's actually rare that I sit around and do nothing but I decided that is exactly what I needed last weekend. I spent all friday on a bus to Ushiaia. As per usual I started and finished a book, a real easy read, 5 friends meet after 20 years and the story of the lives unfold. It was sufficiently entertaining to keep my attention and so the day passed quickly.
Ushiaia is known as the last city of the South, next stop Antartica. I thought it was one of those 'have to visit places' but as we drove in on friday evening my expectations rose. It is lovely calm peaceful little town on the beagle channel,water on one side, snow capped mountains on the other. I was staying in a really cute hostel near the main street, all very intimate! well it would be when you are sharing a room with three others! but the kitchen and living area were comfie and warm so it felt nice to go back to. Like Cheers' a place where everyone knows your name. Well i suppose it was more like the guy at reception started pulling the piss out of me everytime Marcelo rang so he got familiar with my name quite quickly!
Saturday morning I explored the the towns most prized museum, the old prison built at the turn of the century. It was a chilling stroll to say the least but it provided a really good insight into the history of Ushaia and and a colourful insight into the minds of some of Argentinas most notorious criminals. The prison was built in the early 1920's as a menas to ship some of the most dangerous criminals away from from civilisation. There were one or two irish faces in there as well!! The criminals subsequently helped to build the city as we know it today. The area has rich history of discovery as well and I thought of my own dear brother braving these seas some years ago.
Saturday afternoon I opted for a nice calm cruise out to see some of the islands of the coast. It was beautiful and what excitment when we came to the penguins. They are just so cute!! I travelled back in style ,accompanying the captain . I was on a deck obviosuly looking slightly hypothermic when one the crew suggested I go with him. He deposited me inside the cabin with the captain, a nice young argentina guy who could speak english. We shared some mate and they shared some stories of the sea. Dad, you would of been impressed. I sounded reasonably knowlegable regarding the GPS and all that given my limited sailing history!
Sunday I went to the nearby National Park . Yes, a recurring theme.!!I try and balance laziness with abit of excerise. I opted for the coastal walk, a lovely three hour walk through the trees. I made to the camping area in time for a late lunch. They've set up lots of barbeque areas so its really nice to see large families gathered spending sunday together, eating, chatting and chilling out. I didnt attempt to do the seond hike up to the Cerro. I learnt my lesson in Torres. Don't push myself to the point to where i regretted doing any of it so I headed back in time for alittle aftenoon siesta! Perfect for a sunday afternoon.
Who could imagine that a large block of ice would excite and thrill people so much. I flew an hour north Monday evening to the town of el Calafate. There isn't much here, its sole attraction its location 50km to the nearby Perito Moreno Glacier.Quite ironically we learned yesterday that Perito Moreno didn't actually discover the glacier and he never saw it.He was an argentinian explorer who was sent on a mission to define the border with chile. He got within 20km of the glacier but turned back. In recognition for his work, the govermnet paid him with lands and he formed the first national park of Argentina. When the glacier was discovered they named it in his honour. Nothing quite prepares you for coming face to face with it. You just can't take your eyes off it. Yesterday morning turned out to be fairly 'soft' as they say down west.. light blowing rain, obviously with an extra bite here so we were wrapped up in layers prepared to brave the rain. Apparently it's better as the glacier appears more blue. Always look on the bright side!! When it's sunny it apears more white but it is incredible. Given its location between two mountains it looks like a massive river was flowing and suddendly got stuck. You just expect it to start to move but no it stares at you in all its enormity. Ice is breaking off continually and everyone waits in anticipation of hearing some. The sound is intense, it echos all around and people laugh in delight, we saw it! After lunch we took a boat ride out to it. It really gives you another perspective and the sun started to come out. The hauled some ice from the water so it was whiskey on the rocks all round! We went back to the viewing point again to see it with a little sunshine ( hence the brighter photos) and no matter how much you look at it , it is magnificient. It sums up what Patagonia is all about.
I am flying to Bariloche this afternoon, 2 hours north to the lake district. Marcelo is driving there as we speak and gabriella is arriving tomorrow in Buenos Aires.I refuse to believe that I am on the last chapter on this wonderful voyage, I fly home on the 5th of April. In the meantime I am going to enjoy the celebrated chocolate shops in Bariloche and indulge for the weekend. The priest did bellow out something the other night at mass that Easter is not just about chocolate but don't they say that abit of dark is good for you. Here here to that!
A very happy and peaceful Easter to you all
Lots of love from the home of Tango!
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