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I came to Cambodia for 3 reasons. To see its temples, learn some history and try and give something back in return. Whilst the temples of Angkor were amazing, I also felt it necessary to learn of this country's more immediate past. Until today, I was embarrassingly unaware of what happened here during the mid 1970s under the reign of Polpot's Khmer Rouge regime. Sure, I did some reading up over the last few weeks, but none of that was quite enough to prepare me for what I saw today. If you are of a nervous disposition, best to avoid the photo album entitled 'History Lesson'.
First stop, Tuon Sleng. This (dare I say pretty) former primary school was converted to a prison by the Khmer Rouge, and is now a museum to commemorate those who were imprisoned and tortured here. The visit started with a 10am movie which made for a good introduction as to what lies within. After this, I went on to view several rooms around the museum, most of which have been left in exactly the same state that they were found. One wing was used purely for torture, and in each room was a bed frame with either shackles or a piece of torture equipment. Another wing was dedicated to describing the torture that went on here, as depicted by an imprisoned painter who was ordered by the Khmer Rouge to do so. Each of his paintings were accompanied by the instrument of torture used - I won't go in to detail. In one of the last rooms there were pictures of Polpot and his accomplices, followed by mugshots of those imprisoned here, most of whom died either through torture or were led away to the nearby killing fields...
I'd heard of the film 'The Killing Fields' but had not seen it. They've got it on the DVD shelf in the lounge of my guesthouse where everybody dines, chills out and watches movies. I would imagine it's not something you watch over a beer with mates, especially with a room full of Cambodian waiters. If you travel 15km from the city centre by Tuk Tuk, you are able to visit one of the many mass gravesites which remain open as a grim reminder of the execution grounds for thousands of Cambodians. We hired a guide to take us around, although it's pretty clear what went on there. Truckloads of blindfolded prisoners would arrive at those fields to meet their end. Mentally and physically weak, confused and frightened, the prisoners did not need to be shot. Many simply collapsed and died during their final beating - the Khmer Rouge soldiers preferred to bludgeon their skulls with sticks rather than waste precious bullets. Those who fell in to the pit alive simply remained there until they either wasted away or were covered in earth.
Something that I find very hard to understand is that en route to the Killing Fields is a shooting gallery where you can choose whichever machine gun you want and then fire some rounds at targets. If you pay a bit extra, you can even throw a grenade at a cow. Prior to coming travelling, the idea of going to such a shooting range was, admittedly, rather tempting (without blowing up a cow of course). However, given the context and the type of day I'd had so far, I found it all a bit wrong really. Instead, my Tuk Tuk driver took me to a nearby orphanage which is unfunded by the goverment. I got to meet some of the staff and children (148 in total) who are all extremely well mannered and friendly. For the same money that I would have paid to feel like Rambo for 10 minutes, I bought them 50kg of rice which (along with the 50kg that my friend bought) is enough to feed them for another day. It was the best 30 dollars I've ever spent! If ever you come to Cambodia, give the shooting gallery a swerve and ask a Tuk Tuk driver to take you to an orphanage instead - you won't regret it.
Next stop, Laos...
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