Hi Folks internet access at last. Out in the wilds the last few days and access is really poor! First thanks for all your messages, I'm still alive and kicking and enjoying the trip despite the depravations. So here's an update:

Day 3 Agra and Taj Mahal. On way in is the usual hawkers and beggars. Shanty town shops line the street. Into the main gate and high security checks. Then lovely gardens opening up into a gatehouse, huge in itself. Then there it is, surreal, romantic, ethereal, glowing in the morning sunshine in all its glory. No not that the Taj Mahal silly! Seriously it does deserve the tag 7th wonder of the world.

Then the Red Fort in Agra, again huge and impressive, built by the same dynasty as TM. "Fort" belies the scale it makes Windsor Castle look like a kiddy sand castle! Afternoon to the "baby Taj", through narrow streets of Agra in a tuk tuk. Amazing sights everywhere. 8 people in one tuk tuk swaying precariously. 10 lanes of traffic forced into 2 to cross a rickety steel bridge. Noise unbelievable, wild dogs and cows wandering the streets. Even monkeys scrap for thrown away food. The smell of s..t and urine as you cross a river that is an open sewer. Just when you think India cant surprise any more, an elephant in the street going to a festival (as they do in these parts!) with attendant crowds blocking the way.

A wedding procession takes place outside our hotel in the evening and we are invited to join in. Such joy and happiness that they really want to share.

Day 4/5 Gwalior Fort today. Every luxury here for its kings; underground swimming pool, running water, even rudimentary air conditioning and intercom system! All now a ruin of course but in its day must have been magnificent. Highlight was a stop at a rural village miles from anywhere. The people are as curious and pleased to see us as we are them, so welcoming even with nothing much to offer us.

Reach Orchha about 7pm after 4hr bus trip, air con but still tiring! Hotel Betwa Resort in lovely wooded setting, with "cottages " in the gardens for the guests. Glimpses of floodlit Hindu temples all around through the trees. Idyllic! Disaster at night though; Delhi Belly!

Morning is spent going round another palace, Moghul this time, its very hot and I'm still feeling ugh! Spend most of the afternoon in bed.

Day 6 Orchha and travelling. Bus to Jhansi and then train for 3 hrs to Bhopal (yes where the Union Carbide disaster took place) . On to Sanchi where the Buddhist Stupas are located. Round burial mounds/temples beautifully decorated stone and part of a huge monastery dating back to 3rd C. Lost in jungle around 14th C when Moghuls invaded until rediscovered by the Brits in 1838.(so what did the british do for India?!!)

Day 7 Travelling. Off at 8.15 to Mandhu. A 10 hr bus drive. A/C packs in after 2 hrs, so like being in an oven. Clatter along dire roads better suited to horse and cart, past ramshackle villages and endless plains.

Get to hotel about 6.30pm, Mandhu is a fortified hill city 2000 ft up and surrounded with forts and palaces as a capital for local rulers.

Day 8 Mandhu. Nice breeze here keeps the heat tolerable but still late 30's. Main "ship palace" is built between 2 artificial lakes and has the most amazing water storage and distribution system. 700 rooms and space for 15000 women of the harem! This is the place where the emperor Jahangir gave the British emissary the first Charter to trade in India, the start of the Indian Empire.

Day 9 Travelling. Up at 7 for a spot of Yoga only to find it started at 6! The extra hours sleep did me far more good! Set off for INdore at 11, 3hr journey and then overnight train (17hrs) to Bandavargh National Park. Mobbed in Indore like film stars, they are not used to seeing tourists here. Good sleep on train and no unwelcome travellers this time apart from a few 'roaches.

Day 10 Bandavgarh. Arrive at White Tiger Resort hotel a 12.30. Out for afternoon safari and chasing tigers all over this huge park. Saw elephants, deer and monkeys but no tigers. What a disappointment, but the girls on the trip did so it was OK for some!

Day 11 Travelling and Khajaraho. More Hindu temples again lost in jungle and rediscovered by Brits. Fantastic sculptures including scenes from the Kama Sutra (written here in this region!), nothing left to the imagination!

Day 12 Khajaraho. More of the Hindu and Jain temples then a flight to Varanasi where I am writing this. Off now to the Ganges to see the ceremonies of the Hindu's, hopefully another update soon!