Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
"Vake up, vake up!" a German stranger woke us up in the middle of the night. We were on the overnight bus from Chiang Mai back to the dreaded Bangkok. The German fellow had woken us to tell us that our bags were being stolen and so a gang of multi-national travelers set about surrounding the hatch where said culprit was (in the luggage hold).
After much commotion a young boy appeared, the driver didn't throw him off but put him up front with him (a luxury?). We checked our bags and luckily nothing of ours anyway had gone missing. I'm pretty sure the people working for the crappy tour operator were in on it, they had stopped at some point to let the boy on. We had read about this sort of thing so all of our valuables were strapped to our guts.
There were lots of police stop points along the way, you wondered whether the boy was just sleeping in the luggage to get a lift, just generally stealing or as it's been known for them to plant drugs in bags - we checked the bags thoroughly!
After the awful bus ride we arrived in Bangkok - we already had a love hate relationship with the place. It was 6am and the markets were setting up, there were a few drunks loitering but seemed harmless enough even compared to England. Yet again we got stung by a Tuk Tuk who took us to a taxi man who wanted a further 300 baht to take us to Sai Tai Mai - the bus station in the south of Bangkok. Luckily I had Erin to tell him where to go and remembering the advice from our American friend Maik in Chiang Mai we got another taxi and shouted 'Meter' - it was only 100 baht to the station.
Phew...nearly out of Bangkok - we were taking another night bus in the evening to take us to the island paradise of Koh Samui. Firstly we had to endure 12 hours sitting around in the bus terminal - although long we felt like we were Tom Hanks in the movie The Terminal. We got to meet stall holders and made friends as if we were residents. Strangely we had an overwhelming feeling that it was so wonderful to have time to ourselves no constraints of work to be how one should I guess??
A monk came and sat with us for about 2 hours, I think he was practicing his English but he said how lovely we both were and gave us a rope - he said to cut it in half and give each other half - this would protect us on our travels. He also gave us a special gold coin with Buddha on and said that it was a gift and wished us prosperity. We felt really humbled and enjoyed learning about Buddhism such a great religion in that you have to find it rather than it preaching to you.
We also met 'Oud' a 51 year old Lieutenant in the Thai army, he was going to Yala in southern Thailand - he had a dangerous job working on the border with Cambodia. Oud was a lovely man - he too was practicing his English and even invited us to stay with him and his family some time. He said he would protect us and show us the great temple Angkor Wat - a modern wonder of the world. We exchanged contact details - it was amazing to hear his stories of his time in the army and the love for his family. Oud said goodbye and gave us a Thai newspaper called The Nation written in English - it had an article about the border situation in Yala- basically there is a Hindu temple on Thai owned land but Cambodia say the temple way back in history was theirs - so the Cambodians have been building roads etc up to the temple but on Thai owned land - Oud said it was funny how the Cambodians had put a Cambodian flag in the temple and the Thai's put a Thai flag outside the temple on the land.
Finally it was time to get the night bus, apprehensive because of the night before - but again remembering Dan's (who we met in Bangkok) motto to expect the worst - we ended up having a very pleasant journey this time - lovely seats on the bus with a mini tv, leg room, food, blankets and I pressed a button and the seat started to massage me - at that point we knew we would sleep well.
We arrived early morning to catch the ferry at Don sak - a lovely 1.5 hour ferry crossing the Gulf of Thailand watching the sun rise - it was so peaceful and plenty of epic surroundings of islands and fishing boats - we finally arrived in Koh Samui.
We got a taxi so far and then walked 4km with our rucksacks - such a different heat to the mainland though it did feel like you were in paradise - I've never seen such lush vegetation - coconut trees, palm trees and mango trees all lined the road. Arriving at our budget beach resort the place had a bohemian feel to it with cute little bungalows - sea shells dangling outside as decorations. The rooms were basic bed, shower and er Yoga mat? There was a fan but no Air Conditioning and no TV + a few ants but it felt quite cosy and if anyone can make somewhere cosy (again) it's Erin!
Taking a few steps forward from our bungalow - our jaws dropped - the whitest sand with turquoise blue waters lapping up to the shore - palm trees lining the beach - it was also quite a private beach with a small restaurant and bar (where I am writing this now) the view looked straight out to the part island of Koh Phangan.
Having been assured scooters are the best way to see the island at 200 baht per day, we took a risk and hired one probably much to the anger of our parents. It was so much fun driving around the sun kissed island through the sleepy fishing village of Bophut to the amazing Big Budda statue that rose above the sea. We visited waterfalls and jungle type landscapes though our little 125cc barley made it up the hills. Onto the Grandfather and Grandmother rocks famous for looking like male and female genitalia! We rode through the resorts of Chaweng and Lamai had some wonderful chicken, cashew nuts and rice - still plenty of 7-11's for our 50 baht breakfast. The market at Na thon on the north of the island was great we were getting seriously addicted to the chicken and rice that came with chili sauce and a bowl of chicken stock soup. Also the papaya salad was superb.
The best thing was seeing all the expensive resorts even next door to where we were staying, people paying thousands - we got 10 days (extended to 12) for 100 quid! had our own private beach, peace and quiet to those in the noisy resorts. I took great pleasure in drinking a bottle of Leo (beer) and smiling to the thought of 'live like a local'.
The owners of the place were Architects working on a resort project that they had been commissioned to do and at night they came out were great hosts, we spent many evenings with Geoff, James and Bo - they were all friends from Uni and had set up their business together, they taught us many things about Thai life and it was great when we went to pick mussels from the sea with them - they cooked them up for us - such amazing chili spice to go with them! They all were mainly based in the southern city Hat Yai where we were heading to next on our journey and Geoff kindly said he would take us on a tour with his 8 year old son as he was back in Hat Yai when we were. As well as Buddhism the guys also mentioned they knew who 'Zico' was - the Thai footballer that once arrived at Huddersfield Town in a Tuk Tuk (though never actually played to my memory) Zico was now coaching the Thai national under 21 team. There were 4 or 5 lovely dogs who lived on site, Erin loved them so much - they were lovely beasts!
We ate so well again - at the top of the street there was a nice little restaurant and met Pirate such a lovely person who had lost his mind somewhat - but we soon found out that he had a bad motorcycle accident and he said his brother Louis would of given us a great honeymoon present from his hotel but Pirate said that Louis was now far away in heaven - he had died in a motorcycle accident.
We thought it best to stay away from the scooter now that we had gotten to see everything - we still want to buy one back home though!
After relaxing, reading, swimming and eating we met a Swedish guy and his friend from Carlisle who were heading out to the famous Full Moon Party - we contemplated it (and I at this point also contemplated getting a tattoo!) but realised we could sit on the beach and have a drink with the owners and see+ hear the antics as we looked across to Koh Phangan.
There were great sunsets, heavenly in fact and lightening bolts that lit up the sky. We used the Kayak and I got stung by a sea urchin - a bit of Iodine and lime juice solved that - though a little scary as jelly fish started to come into my mind!
We also looked out to the national park of Ang Thong you could take day trips to snorkel and Kayak we also talked to Geoff about the other coast of Thailand where Phuket etc was. He said next time would be worth visiting Phi Phi where some of The Beach was filmed - we just couldn't fit all of that in but next time - Geoff mentioned that there were so many islands still undiscovered.
We had such a wonderful time in Thailand - the people and locals definitely made it and I think to stay in a big resort you would miss out on so much - we feel very lucky - as Erin mentioned we have missed out so much on these blogs the people and experiences (our senses to sounds and sights) but hope maybe to build up a big massive story when we return.
Tomorrow we will take a 6am bus from the pier/ferry and go back to the mainland, we are heading for Hat Yai for a night or 2. From there we'll cross overland by train into Malaysia, Kuala Lumpar to see the Petronas Towers and then we'll head down to Singapore for a few nights adventure in the futurist city - then to Australia! I'm thinking as Australia is so expensive our backpacking rooms will be noisy though we are still looking forward to it - we'll leave Thailand with fond memories though wishing we could of crammed more in Cambodia etc.
We are having the time of our lives and after Australia we head to my Aunties in Wellington, New Zealand - we are looking forward to that for cosy family time but are also planning our tour around both the north and south islands. Will update the blog next on our time in Malaysia.
- comments
craig Good read guys, enjoying the blogs sounds like an awesome trip
chris watson Sorry about spelling etc very hard net connection will edit when back