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Hi all, we originally posted a blog on Saturday but due to Fiji internet connections it never made it to the site!! So this one will be a long one - you might need a cuppa! here goes...
Life on the island is definitely different and not what we are used to but it is a unique experience. Marks initial impression was that it was a bunch of hippies on an island - it's not too far from the truth in one or two cases but certainly not all. There are people from all walks of life here and even a family with young children at the moment - it makes for interesting dinner talk and we've learnt alot about other places.
It's amazing what they have achieved on the island which has been 'built' using mostly only those materials that can be accessed locally and the expertise of Team Fiji. Team Fiji are a group of local fijians that live with us on the island Mon - Sat and they look after us - they cook, they teach us to dance (meke), teach us the language and much more. There is also a Fijian family who live permanantly on the island - Frances & Poasa - Poasa is Tui Malis brother and was once the chief himself.
Most evenings are spent sat around in the main bure (house) drinking kava (aka grog) which is a drink made from kava root. The Fijians pound the roots and add it to water - it looks like muddy puddle water and doesn't taste much different but has an aftertaste not dissimilar to Bonjela! It makes your lips and tongue go numb briefly and if you drink enough you can't walk - we never drank quite this much! I very quickly learnt to say 'vakissi' meaning a small amount please - when Namani was guarding the grog bowl he was kind to me and only gave me a small amount. It's something like a narcotic from what we can gather and your tolerance to it lessens over time rather than improves. The Fijians say that they are 'lamb chopped' when they've had too much grog!
Whilst around the grog mat the Fijians play guitars and sing traditional songs - it's alot of fun. Our favourite song is the animal song where they call out your name and when they stop singing you have to make an aminal noise - certainly breaks down the barriers when you first arrive! We've had a go at pounding the kava root using the 40lb pestle - it's hard work and now we know why the Fijians are so fit!!
There are many rules we have to follow on the island - traditional Fijian ways which if we don't follow will offend them. We have to wear sula's on the grog mat and whenever the chief (Tui Mali) visits the island. Women must cover their shoulders and chests and everyone must cover their knees on the grog mat. When entering the main bure women must say 'mae na va du' and men 'o ya' - it basically means mind if I come in? Bures have no doors so it's polite to inform people inside that you wish to come in. At night everyone says 'bogi' pronounced 'bongi'. When receiving grog you must clap once beforehand and three times after. If Tui Mali our the tribal chief is drinking we all have to clap three times afterwards.
We've learnt a few Fijian words and sayings on the island but still don't know much. It was pretty overwhelming at first but we've got better as time has gone on. The Fijians are so lovely that if you get something wrong they just laugh it off and help you get it right. There are some real characters, namely Jone, but everyone is so happy and welcoming - they really are just as you imagine, always smiling. It's very humbling as they have so little but want to share what little they do have with you. They are very special people.
Meal times are interesting -Fijians don't appear to be concerned with flies and general bugs. It's a little off putting at first but it's now becoming the norm. The food is all veggie as there is no way to store meat on the island - the fridge is an old chest freezer with a couple of bags of ice in the bottom as there is no electricity. If the weekly fishing trip is successful then we have fish the following day. So we live on fresh fruit, veg, lentils and rice pretty much - but we also drink alot of tea which is a god send!
The composting toilets are also interesting - we'll leave your imagination to that one!!! Effective to be fair but not luxurious!! Unfortunately there is a water shortage at the moment which means that fresh water is rationed - we are encouraged to wash in the sea which is different and not all that effective!.Plus the added danger of sea snakes and sharks - don't get those in your shower at home!
It's really difficult to explain just how beautiful the island and the surrounding islands are - they look like a picture postcard of paradise and we feel so priviliged to be able to visit Voruvoru and experience the real Fiji thanks to the Fijian's on the island. Voruvoru is half an hours boat ride from Labasa so it's pretty remote apart from the next island Mali. The island where they filmed Survivor is also just round the corner! The TV producers offered to rent Voruvoru to film survivor but Tui Mali turned down millions as he'd already struck a deal for thousands with the founder of the Tribewanted project - a man of principles wouldn't you say? That just about sums up the Fijians for you!
We visited Mali one day and went to the school were we taught the local children - it was a brilliant experience if not a little hectic. We got to play netball and football with them also. We did the monkey meke that we'd learnt which made them laugh and in return they did a meke for us.
Marks first reef fishing trip wasn't awfully successful - caught something the size of a goldfish! All in all they caught 10 fish though which were used for lunch the following day. His second attempt was no more successful, though more so than my first attempt as I caught nothing! It was worth going out though as we watched the sunset from the water and it was spectacular. It's eerie being out there though as you can see Voruvoru and Mali etc behind you, but in front there is nothing for what looks like ever.....
There are reef, hammerhead and tiger sharks in the water although the latter two are not often seen. The people who live here on the island talk as if it's no big deal but at the same time advise you to swim in twos!! The disclaimer that we signed also mentions swimming which is a little un-nerving!! Both the snorkelling reef trips have seen sharks but they were swimming along the sea bed. Not sure that I'll ever be ready for that!
We went snorkelling for the first time ever - it was amazing. We must have seen over 30 species fish and we were only waist deep. When we plucked up the courage we went out further and it was so worth it as the coral was even more beautiful and we saw huge blue starfish and sea cucumbers as well as countless different fish.
The first Tuesday of our stay we had our 'sevusevu' which is where we present kava roots to the island chief (Tui Mali). I presented on behalf of the new arrivals for that week and it was a nerve wracking but fab experience - I had to present him with the kava and thank him for allowing us on the island. Doesn't sound much but he's 'the man' around here so the pressure is on to get it right!! I had to clap before speaking, end my little speech by saying 'so so ratu' and then clap agin three times. I also had to shuffle back to my seat without turning my back which is seen as very rude. After the formal bit the ladies from the kitchen brought in tea and more cake than you could wish for..... bliss.
On the first Thursday we were also involved in a massive celebration as some of team Fiji arrived home from London. They had a 'lovu' which is where they prepare a feast (including a whole pig) using an underground oven. They made garlands for them and sang to welcome them home. It was a great day and we were lucky to be on the island whilst it was going on. Again we performed the monkey meke and certainly made them laugh if nothing else- it was nice to be able to give something back. The Fijians appear to love the fact that 'white men' can learn to meke and then perform it back to them.
During the second sevu sevu ceremony Mark was invited to be a guard of the grog bowl. This meant dressing him up in a grass skirt, painting him with charcoal and tieing banana leave around his arms - he looked a picture! Three guards must be present around the grog bowl at all times and they are responsible for serving the grog to everyone on the grog mat - it's an important role as kava ceremonies are used for special occassions as per the Fijian tradition.
Mark also walked the 4 peaks of the island - an hour long trek along the island and back through the mangroves and the beach. There were some great views and the walk took them past the burial site of Tui Malis ancestors. All in all an interesting walk. I on the other hand chose to participate in slightly less taxing activities like coconut jewellry making! Pu pu made me an excellent butterfly which I then sanded and varnished.
Volley ball is a popular pass time on the island - Jone and I beat Mark and Steve once and then it went downhill from there! The Fijians obviously spend alot of time playing as they are excellent.
There is so much to say about our time on the island that it is difficult to sum it up here and certainly impossible to do it justice. We hope that you have some idea of what island life is like and would recommend it to anyone........
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