Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
Hola,
I am now sitting in an internet cafe in Buenos Aires, enjoying some warm weather and sunshine after the expidition up Aconcagua. It was an awesome experience although I only made it up to camp 3 which was still at a dizzy height of 5970m. From camp 3 you looked out over the valley and mountains below. The summit of Aconcagua was unfortunately still some 1000m above us. Only one person and a guide from our group made it to the summit. Temperatures had plummetted to a cold -30 degrees with a big wind chill. The experience was great but I am happy not to be in a small tent now and not having snow fall around the tent. Also good to use a toilet again, instead of a rock or having to use a bag. I am also warm and clean. It was two weeks of walking with the same clothes, sleeping in your clothes as well and no shower. As you could imagine by the end of the expedition we all smelled a treat. That is a summary, but if you cant get enough I have put more of a day by day thing below.
Day 1: Meet, greet and dinner. Our group at this stage was 2 aussies, 5 Irish, with another 3 Aussies, 1 Saffa and 2 Spanish to join us.
Day 2: Drove from Mendoza to Penetentes, picking up the other guys from a camp at 3200m, where they had been doing acclimatisation. The Aussie contigent is Kym, Peter and Richard, with Justin (Saffa) also living in Australia. The Irish were Ken, Joe, Owen, Patrick and Rory. On our way to our hotel we had lunch (at 4pm), which was a delicious BBQ steak. Over lunch everyone started chatting a bit more and getting to now eachother. This evening we organised our bags into stuff for the high altitudes (above 4200m) and gear needed for the walk into base camp.
Day 3: Shower this morning before heading out to start the hike. Pur starting height today was 2400m, with the finish around 15km away and at a height of 2700m. No problems with altitude today just a slightly slower pace than normal. It was a relaxed five hour trek done in 30 degree heat. Our heavy back packs were transported by the mules, while we walked with just some fleeces and plenty of water. After arriving at our camp we had a quick lesson in how to put up our tents. In short no tent pegs just use rocks, however important to know difference between a small rock, medium rock and big rock for the windy conditions. Dinner was a BBQ eaten with your hands and featured more beef, black sausage, normal sausage and bread with a little salad. The tents are on the small side with two adults and sleeping gear just fitting into the tent. All other bags were left outside. The mountains along the walk where very dry, however a river ran along the length of the bottom of the valley. There was no real vegetation along the walk, other than shrubs with large thorns. The blue sky and colours of the mountains made an idealic setting however.
Day 4:Today we continued to walk along the same valley as yesterday this time going from 2700m to 3200m. The walk was once again a fairly steady included with nothing too strenuous involved.At the end of the day we had our first view of Aconcagua.It was an impressive view to look down the valley we would be walking along tomorrow and to see Aconcagua at the end, dominating over the surrounding mountains.It was a daunting thought that our goal is to reach the summit of such a beast of a mountain.It was yet another hot day with the sun beating down on us and a hot dusty wind blowing into our faces.Day 5: The first big climb up the mountain was today.We started the days at 3200m and finished the day at 4100m.It was yet again another hot day with temperatures in the high 20s to mid 30´s with a reasonably hard climb at the mid point of the day.A river crossing was also involved, however the water only came to just above the knee´s so it was more of a leg wash than anything else.Todays walk was one of the most scenic yet with the gigantic snow capped peak of Aconcagua dominating the views during the second half of the walk.By the time we reached base camp the breathing was harder and a headache had started to set in.We were greeted with congratulations from everyone as we arrived at Plaza Argentina, our base camp for the next few days.There was a great spread of sweet biscuits, savoury biscuits and cold drinks to enjoy as a reward for our first day of real high altitude walking.Inka was very well set up on the mountain with 5 large tents to block out the wind but still let the sun in.During the days it was very cosy in these large tents, with the food and chill out tent where we spent most of our time.Another luxury at Plaza Argentina was a long drop toilet with a toilet seat.Little things really made a difference.High altitude and squat toilets leave you short of breath (not to mention the smell, preventing you from having an enjoyable deep breath of fresh mountain air).Plaza Argentina is a bit of a goal in itself as at 4100m the altitude starts to become a big factor as the O2 saturations dropped to 81%.A number of people in our group actually developed altitude sickness upon arriving in base camp and needed medical attention from the doctor which is based at base camp.We followed the instructions given to us and drank as much water as we could. The views from base camp were spectacular as you looked all the way down to the starting point at the very bottom of the valley.You also started to see peaks which you were camped at the foot of the previous day.You soon got used to been short of breath after walking 20m. Day 6: Rest day and time to make the most of a day without slimbing.Today we drank our fluids to the extent where we needed the toilet every 30minutes.We were also well fed and the spent the day chatting to everyone.Our only thing to do today was visit the doctor at base camp for a health check.The O2 saturations were now going the correct way and had increased to 84% which was about average for the group.Day 7: It was time for our hardest high altitude hike yet.Today we portered our food for the next week up the mountain which was around 8kg each.We also had 3 litres of fluids and crampons in our bag.We had to carry what ended up being around 15kg up to camp 1 at an elevation of 5000m. It was a constant up hill effort with sections involving crossing a rock covered glacier.The last part of the climb was a massive effort with unstable footing frustrating the up hill progress.At times you stepped up 20cm only for your foot to slide 5cm down the hill as you transferred you weight.The altitude, the weight of the back pack and the constant uphill effort were all exhaustive.After four hours of up hill struggle we arrived at camp 1 to drop off our loads and then return to base camp.The return journey was much quicker, with the last hour of uphill struggle covered in only 15minutes as we part ran and part slid down the loose dirt on top of the glacier.Unfortunately one of the Irish guys, Joe, twisted his knee on the way down.He was helped down the rest of the mountain by two of our guides (Maurisio and Sef).Day 8: Another rest day of eating and drinking 8L of fluids.Day 9: Move to Camp 1.Today we did the big uphill trek to camp 1 again, this time carrying our gear, which took the weight of the pack to 19kg.The walk was over the same area of ground that we went previously.The penententes towards camp 1 were fascinating to see.Upon arrival at camp 1 everyone in the group was exhausted.This time my O2 sats dropped to 78% with a resting heart rate of around 100-110. Day 10: Carry food and equipment to camp 2.This time we carried food for the next 3 - 4 days up to camp 2 which is around 5500m.Our backpacks once again weighed around the 14kg mark.The walk went straight up hill from Camp 1.Once we made it over the top we had a short downhill section before once again setting off up an incline and across a small ice field.The thinner air was having a big effect on breathing with waves of headaches and nausea coming along rapidly and worse than on other days.The views of snow capped mountains and extensive glaciers from the walk were the best yet.It was another hard slog up the mountain, only to return to back to camp 1, knowing that we had to do the walk once again but with heavier back packs. The wind which blows through camp 1 during the day and evening is something else.It just doesn't relent, unless you find a rock big enough to act as your wind break.At times during the evening the edges of the tent would lift off the ground despite the large rocks securing the tent. Day 11:Rest day at Camp 1.Today we did some sun baking out of the breeze wearing polar fleece jumpers and pants and only just been hot.Once the sun went behind the clouds or set of an evening the temperature would drop by around 6 degrees.Also at camp 1 we had to use the outdoor toilet where number 2s were bagged and dropped into another bag that was taken back down to plaza Argentina to be choppered out after that.After a number of conversations everyone decided that sharing a porter between two people for the trip from camp 2 to camp 3 would be a very wise.Have started counting down the days now till no tent and a shower.Still have not showered, however have used wipes on the face and body as a temporary clean.In the camp sites you can really only lye on your back to sleep, otherwise you end up short of breath from not been able to expand your lungs.This evening some snow began to fall.Day 12: Move to camp 2.Another day of carrying a heavy backpack uphill for four hours to gain some 500m in elevation.Once again the fingers went numb from the cold today despite wearing ski gloves and thermal gloves. Arrived at camp 2 exhausted and then had to put our tent up.As we finished the tent and were sitting down to have lunch the weather started to close in.It wasn't long until temperatures plummeted and snow started to fall.Dinner was actually fed to us inside the tent, due to the amount of snow falling and the cold temperatures.Day 13:Move to Camp 3.I awoke this morning to have the tent surrounded by snow.It had actually built up at the back of the tent to cover our bags.Over a foot of snow had fallen overnight and a strong gale was blowing.Last night we had to pull our boots inside the tent to stop the snow getting in.The tent became even more crowded for space with four pairs of shoes (hiking boots and plastic boots each) now taking up the room for the feet.It took over four hours to move ourselves to camp 3 with porters taking half of our gear.Today we walked in our plastic boots, which were less comfortable but warmer and better for the snow conditions.It was another exhausting day and I was delighted to arrive at camp 3 to find our tent had been put up by the porters.It was then time to consume as much fluids as possible.This was not helped by the fact that the camelback was now frozen from the cold temperatures.As the afternoon went by, the temperatures dropped, the wind picked up and the snow clouds started to come in again.By the time dinner was ready I was starting to feel a little sick with a headache starting to thump away.I tried to keep drinking, but the extra cold temperatures sent me to the tent.Day 14: Summit Attempt day.The forecast for the next few days was for 20-30km/hr winds for today, followed by snow storms tomorrow and the next day.Unfortunately when I woke up the headache from last night was no a pounding headache and the nausea had also greatly increased.James was feeling pretty much the same way, if not a little worse.We both decided not to attempt the summit as it was still a further 1000m up and back down in one day.The temperatures in the morning were actually -30 with gusty winds dropping the temperature further still.Of the guys who attempted the summit, they started to return after one to three hours had passed, most of them with frozen, numb feet.There was a high risk of frostbite with the weather.Most were back down after five hours with three and one guide deciding to continue for the summit.Of the three who continued two turned back with 200m to go.In the end only one guy actually made it to the top with the guide Sef helping him.A number of us headed for base camp in the afternoon.It was some 1700m down the mountain to Plaza Mulas, but the thought of the impending snow storms made all of us keen to go.On the way down we had to make our way through lots of snow and unfortunately my sunscreen had frozen.The sun reflecting off the snow and the gusty winds caused dome rather painful sunburn on the nose and face.It was great to be down in base camp where breathing was a lot easier and the headaches and nausea disappeared.We had a can of coca cola as a form of celebration.Great to have something else to drink other than fruit flavoured Tang or water. Day 15: Rest day at Plaza Mulas while we wait for the guys who went to the summit to join us.Today we made the most of our acclimatisation and went for a walk to the glacier near the base camp.The glacier was part of a mountain which had extensive glaciers on either side and it had dominated our view down the mountain on the previous day.It was great to be able to walk around at a normal pace without getting very short of breath.One the guys returned we joined Ken for some beers to have a mini celebration of an amazing experience.Day 16: The day has come for the seven and a half hour walk out of the national park where we covered some 28km.It was a hard day of walking on a sandy and rock river bed through the valley at a fairly constant speed.The views along the way however were stunning, especially at the beginning where a large amount of snow had fallen the previous day so everywhere was lightly coated in snow.As the day progressed we entered the valley which continued on forever.Once of the sites in the valley was the mountain where a 6000 year old mummy was found some time ago.A mountain with impressive colours and shapes was also a feature of our walk out.It was a tiring day but everyone was keen to get back to the hotel and the first shower in two weeks to feel clean.The smell of 13 people who had been wearing the same clothes for the last 14 days was not great.On the way back we had a fantastic steak.
Day 17: After chilling out in Mendoza for the day, we had a big party this evening to celebrate been back down, James birthday and Maurisio´s birthday.
- comments