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Arriving from Hue, the 4 hour bus journey went south through the rural countryside and the picturesque fishing village of Lang Co before ascending the the dramatic Hai Van Pass.
Like a living museum Piece, Hoi An was the enchanting and beautiful historic town I had been expecting to see from Hanoi & Hue. Set on the Bon River, Hoi An - or Faifo, as early wetern traders knew it - was an international trading port as far back as the 17th century. Now, the Chinese, Japanese & European cultures and influences are still very much present and preserved in local architecutre and art. Roaming the narrow streets & lanes at night, it's easy to imagine how it might have looked 150 years ago.
Hoi An's old town is protected and is now declared a World Heritage Site so to enter this part of the town you have to pay an admission fee for however many days you wish to visit. Since there's not really anywhere else to go in Hoi An and this is the main hub it was definately worth the couple of thousand dong for 2 days. Afterall this fee goes towards funding the preservation of the town's historic architecture.
Just to get into the swing of things, had a orientation tour of the town. The small french colonial buildings converted to bars and restuarants, cyclists and cyclo drivers filling the narrow roads, and the riverfront so peaceful with local fisherman stagnent on the water. Wandering the streets and narrow alleyways brings hours of pleasure and discovery. Every twist and turn had yet another surprise awaiting....another street or narrow lane full of colonial architecture that you're convinced you couldn't have missed! Bakers, cafes, art galleries...everything is so slow and calm compared to the fast paced life everywhere else in Nam. Today's trade in Hoi An is ceramics, wood-ware, paintings and tailoring and you're sure not to get caught short of any!!
In comparison to food and delicacies everywhere else i'd visited in Nam so far, Hoi An was winning by 100%!! Still not up to the usual thai cuisine but definately more flavours were being tested. Even decided to take a little cooking course whilst i was in town. For $11 you get taken to the bustling market to buy the ingredients, get a better insight of how to choose the correct ingredients - whats fresh and whats not, then go back to the restaurant that night and prepare your own 5 course meal. There were 11 of us and it was really good fun. We made pumpkin soup, fresh & fried spring rolls, grilled fish in banana leaf & lemongrass, morning glory & chilli vegetables....mmm I'm hungry just thinking about it! So i'm expecting you all to sample my new cooking skills when i get home or visit you over the next year... you won't be disappointed - food posioning at the worst...
Everyone seems to get around the town on bikes (bicycles) and walking back and forward from the town to my guesthouse was getting a bit too strenuous so hired a bike. Can't believe how much i missed riding a bike...it was great, felt like i was back in time 15 years ago. Went a little cycle in the opposite direction of the old town and ended up passing rice paddies, locals farming in the fields, buffalo's grazing, kids playing football bare foot on the pebbled streets... it was so silent and still. No sound apart fromt he wind blowing in the tall grass and fields. Ended up in a graveyard too. Totally different from our cemetories back home. Instead of the coffins being buried under ground, the bodies are put in tombs above ground. and instead of flowers being laid at the headstone, incence was burning at the foot of the tomb. As you can imagine, it was eerily quiet, felt really disrespectful taking a photo but quickly said a little prayer so i wouldn't be frowned upon... :-)
Having a manicure & pedicure was definately an experience in Hoi An. So far haven't had much luck with the massages, manicures etc in Nam but thought to hell with it, tried it everywhere else, may aswell try again...3rd time lucky!.... Not quite... I could have done better with my left hand...infact a 4 year old I know could have done better with her left hand!!! Considering the beautician/hairdresser/masseues was about 13 I guess i shouldn't complain. Plus it worked out about 70p!! Clare decided to opt for the brave option and have her ears cleaned..... why would you! She even seen the woman before having hers cleaned with a huge metal rod with a sharp needle looking thing on the end.... don't even think it was sterile.... yuk! Anyway, she only lasted about 3 minutes before she started to freak out about going deaf, perfirated ear drums and cleanliness....
It just happened to be Hoi An's legendary night when I was there... It takes place on the 14th day (full moon) of every lunar month from 5.30pm to 10pm. These festive evenings feature traditional food, song and dance, and games along the lantern-lit streets in the town centre. It's the only time children are allowed to dress up as dragons in the street, play their big drum and ask for money. They parade around the streets singing and dancing (with pretty impressive drum playing) and come into restaurants and bars and ask for money. They basically stand in front of your face and dance until you give them something. It's not compulsory that you do and it's likely if you do give them a few dong they won't leave you alone all night. Apparantly legend has it if they don't get donations it's bad luck for them...i don't know if it's necesserily true or part of a bigger scam.... gave a few donations anyway as it was pretty impressive to see....
So after a pretty non-stop 2 days in the lazy town it was time to leave and head for my last stop in Vietnam... Ho Chi Minh City aka Saigon.....
Cxx
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