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19 July 2009
Cusco to Lima
I awoke early and packed my bags, feeling a slight tinge of sadness that the first part of my trip was over. It had been an amazing introduction to Peruvian culture and heritage and I felt I had learned a lot from the experience.
My newly toned thighs and acclimatised lungs reminded me of how quickly the body can adapt to new and difficult situations. I bade my fellow trekkers farewell after breakfast and was accompanied by two jovial GAP representatives on my transfer to the airport. I told them about the next leg of my trip and my quest for greater understanding of people's needs. We discussed climate change and politics, to which one of the guys replied "the government controls everything". He spoke about climate change denial and seemed fatigued by the lack of power in reversing the global warming situation; resigned to the fate that it will affect Peru in the future. "It cannot be stopped, because it didn't just happen yesterday" he said. Like our tour guide, he proudly spoke of Peru's rich biodiversity, which made me realise how important the conservation efforts in this country are, but the economic situation in the country doesn't give much room for manoeuvre.
At Lima airport I waited patiently, treating myself to an almond snickers bar for about £1 which was pretty good. As we were about to board, there was some commotion at the front of the line. An English lady was in distress, unable to get a seat on the plane for her and her sick daughter - who was suffering from the water-borne illness Giardia. She was desperate to get her back to Europe for treatment but no seats were available on that flight back to Lima. In a panic, she stood up on the seat and pleaded with someone to give up their seat. I really wanted to give up my seat, but knew that GAP would be sending a driver to meet me at the other end, and with no way of contacting them, I couldn't oblige I felt terrible and told her I wish I could help, the desperation in her eyes was harrowing. Luckily, two Swedish people gave up their seats and she was able to board the plane. It was a reminder that Peruvian water should be avoided like the plague. Even the Peruvians don't drink it.
The delightful Walter met me at the airport and transferred me back to my hotel in Miraflores, a rather nice, touristy district in Lima. When I mentioned I had a few days in Lima, he offered to book me on a tour and without an ounce of paranoia I accepted. The driver would pick me up at 2.15pm prompt the next day.
For the rest of the day I relaxed and enjoyed walking around Miraflores, which is busy and not very touristy as far as I could tell. The drivers toot their horns a lot, mostly to warn pedestrians that they are nearby - which I find rather courteous. I have seen no evidence of any road rage either, everything is 'tranquilo' here. I ate a sad looking KFC and decided that I would treat myself to some proper Peruvian food - ceviche - tomorrow.
My hotel is rather plush, Los Girasoles, and at $70 a night I enjoyed the breakfast of scrambled eggs and croissants, followed by fresh fruit and some strong coffee. I took my filthy clothes to the launderette and wandered back to the centre of Miraflores in search of a new torch for the jungle (I was lent a wind-up oe by my adventurer pal John, but it sounds like a cat being strangled, which wouldn't be ideal when we are spotting caimans at night in the silent Amazon). But it was still only 10am and the shops don't open until 11am. So I decided to treat myself to a cheap manicure and pedicure. Gloria owned the small hairdressers next to the launderette and as it was still early, she got started straight away. The state my feet and hands in were atrocious, she took over 2 hours just on my feet. She did a marvellous job and finished just in time for the blue-rinse brigade, who were booked in at midday.
Back at the hotel I tucked into a chicken empanada from the local shop and felt almost certain that I would be suffering the next day. I rested until the bus picked me up for my tour of Lima in the afternoon.
Lima is a dull and drizzly city at this time of year (winter) and it gives the place a moody charm. Apparently, yes they do get sad that they don't see the sun for months at this time. Our tour guide briefed us on the history of the city - from the times when the Spanish conquered under the rule of Pisaro, to the liberation, aided by Simon Bolivar. We passed an old Inca ruin made of adobe bricks, passed the old colonial buildings and went to the catacombs where hundreds of Francisco monks were buried beneath the main church. I have to say I quite liked Lima, although I wouldn't want to spend too much time in the city centre. It has a long, boring beach, popular with surfers and a Gaudi-inspired garden with a massive monument showing the Lima lovers in the Peruvian kiss/embrace.
Caught up in rush hour on the way home, eventually we got back to the hotel and I wandered straight out to a local restaurant for ceviche, white wine and some fresh vegetables (which I was craving like mad). I sat alone in the open air, drizzle persisting and the smell of car fumes spoiling the ambience. Apparently the petrol they use is sub-quality and mixed with god-knows-what, hence the high levels of pollution that seep into my hotel room via the closed windows even.
The waiters were friendly and I striked up conversation with Hunter, who incidentally is from Iquitos, where I am heading tomorrow. He helps with local projects in the area, assisting young orphans with opportunities for work and we swapped websites and I left before I was tempted by another glass of wine. Feeling happy an satisfied with another fine day in Peru, I retired early to my bed, only to be woken early by rumbles of dissatisfaction from my belly - the empanada was back to haunt me.
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