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My first thoughts of Barcelona, taken purely from appearance as we left the Pyrenees and saw it appear from beneath us along the coast; where that this place is a mess.
We entered Barcelona from the north, so the city proper was largely hidden behind the cranes and the tall, empty buildings in the suburbs. These thoughts, however; were soon quashed.
After only having spent an hour there I had already begun to find it as impressive as Paris; but for different reasons.
There is an addictive vibrancy about it, which I guess comes from the mix of Catalonians, Spaniards (Barcelona is the capital of a region of Spain called Catalonia. The people here want independence, and consider themselves Catalonian first, Spanish second) and Africans that live and work here.
Where Paris has the famous Champ-Elyees, and it's wide, calm streets lined with grandiose and elegant buildings that sit along the Siene. Barcelona has the spectacle that is La Rambla (Las Ramblas), which is criss-crossed by cramp, dark streets that form Labyrinths between the tall Gothic architecture (including many churches) that hide caf?ncircled courtyards and various shops, and overhead bridges leading between buildings.
However my time in Barcelona began on higher ground, as we ascended Tibidabo (A mountain overlooking the city) for some aerial pictures, and to see the old fort. I always enjoy taking aerial shots and cityscapes. Even though there are few stand-out buildings in Barcelona, seeing the city sat on the lap of the Mediterranean under the gaze of the morning sun was well worth the trip up.
It was from this spot where I first saw the world famous Sagrada Familia, looming over the Barri G? (Gothic Quarter). Anybody who knows me well will know of my like for all things dark, obscure and Gothic; and would not be surprised to learn that it was my next stop.
The Gothic Quarter was the city centre of the old city, and many of the buildings date from medieval times. The streets grow longer, thinner, and darker; as the buildings rise higher on either side. Gargoyles, Lizards and Men cast in stone hang from the eaves along the rooftops, or appear to climb over doorways or windows. There are very few vehicles because the streets are so thin, which means you are forever part of a crowd that snakes from street to street, spilling into the small public squares and courtyards dotted throughout.
Of the many churches that stand in the Gothic Quarter, many still show signs of the civil wars; bullet and mortar holes riddle the walls showing the actions of the firing squads that literally dragged holy men from their churches and shot them on the spot.
Then there is the Sagrada Familia, the most surreal and random building I have ever seen. Originally worked on by Gaudi, construction began in 1882 and has still to be completed; and has been worked on by no less than seven (I believe) architects. The facades are fascinating to behold, individually you can make out all the small scenes and sculptures that nestle in them, and together they give them impression of a giant wax candle that has begun to melt under the sun. It is a building definitely worth visiting when (if ever) it is completed.
Another monument Gaudi has left is Park Guell on the hill of el Carmel; which is about a 20 minute metro ride out from the centre of Barcelona. The Park is a combination of gardens and architecture, which combined have the feel of a fairytale.
When you enter, the first thing you see is a strange piece that vaguely resembles castle. A winding staircase, flanked by caves, leaves up to a room of pillars which hold up a large observation platform from which you can look down the hill to the city. Below this sit two houses that from appearance alone you could believe they were made from gingerbread and candy.
Walking the set paths takes you through constructed caves, and further up the hill past sculptures and other buildings; before spitting out back out at the entrance.
Personally I enjoyed the park, but would not recommend it to everyone; I doubt I'll ever return, it got a little boring for me relatively quickly. Also you do have to walk for a while to reach it, from the metro station. One the plus side, the tourist shops outside the park sell some interesting ceramic ornaments, some replicas of Gaudi's work.
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