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Spent the last 4 days traveling this out-of-the-way route through Sulawesi/Indonesian Borneo to (finally) reach Tawau in Malaysia. I've passed through the most obscure places and having been, I reckon, one of a very small handful of westerners in the area for the duration, have therefore had everyone staring, numerous photos taken with strangers, most cars honking as they pass me, calls of 'hello mister!' from high and low as I walk the streets, and not conducted a single conversation in which I have either understood or been understood. Throw into the mix that it's a devout muslim area at the start of ramadan, making it impossible to find a meal to eat in daylight hours, and it's safe to say I'll enjoy a bit of backpacker company when I reach 'the normal routes' again!
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