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We were up early today, eager to get stuck into our exploration of Venice.
We commenced our self guided tour at Piazza San Marco (St Marks Square) a short stroll from our hotel. This is the central square in Venice. It is a vast public space and is the hub of Political, Social and Religious life for Venicians.
The square is littered with significant sights and we enjoyed the multiple architectural styles of the Arcades that run in a "U" shape around the square; Procuratie Vecchie (built circa 1520), Ala Nepoleonica (built 1810), prociratie Nuove (built 1640). These arcades are lined with Shops, cafes and restaurants on the ground level and offices above. The grand St Marks Basilica (Built in 336) and clock towers (built 1497) complete the square. As we started our exploration early there were limited tourists at the square so we were able to enjoy the peace of the square with just the occasional noise coming from the table set ups being completed by the restaurants in the square and the flutter of pigeons in large numbers that engulf the square. It is an amazing feeling to stand in a public square where the noise of Traffic is non-existent
Following the many small lanes that run off the Piazza we headed towards the grand canal. One thing you lose very quickly in Venice is your sense of direction. We literally spent hours winding through these little bluestone lanes full of cafes and shops. The majority of these lanes are no more than 2 meters wide with 2-3 stories rising above. You come across treasures in these lanes and every turn brings something new; little stone foot bridges over tiny canals, sudden bursts of openings to open spaces where a group of lanes collide, churches, homes, statues...we were constantly surprised and frequently lost! In an effort yo get back our bearings we jumped on a Gondola. As a tenor serenaded we glided gracefully through the many canals. We passed under so many old foot bridges and homes, including Mozart's, as we made our way to the Grand Canal. On arrival the shimmering Grand Canal took our breath away, lined with colourful houses, hotels and restaurants either side it is filled with a sense of ceremony and majesty. This was the single best way to see Venice.
After lunch on the Canal we continued to explore the lanes throughout Venice. We visited the Antonio Vivaldi Museum. house in a church, the museum chronicles the work that Vivaldi undertook between 1703 and 1740 at the church orphanage, as chorus master and violin teacher to the orphans. He composed much of his works during for the church orchestra there was an interesting collection of Violins, Violas and Cellos, the oldest was a Cello from 700.
We also toured Teatro La Fenice (Venice Opera House) which was one of the finest Opera Houses in Europe holding premiers of some of the most important Operatic works in history such as Verdi's La Traviata. Built in 1792 it was named The Phoenix as a reference to the theatre company's survival through a fire that guttered the previous Opera House. Interestingly this theatre over its history has burned 3 times, and been reconstructed to the original blueprint plans each time, the most recent fire was arson in 1996. La Fenice is still in operation today. The theatre is magnificent. A proscenium arch theatre is decorated with ornate details in gold, with a gold Phoenix at the mid point. There is a general admission seated area out front of the stage, surrounded by five levels of 172 private boxes with 4 chairs in each private box. Directly opposite the stage on the first floor is the Royal Box, full if gold, giant mirrors and luxurious fabrics on the ceiling is a painted sky with saints and cherubs looking down at the audience seating below. We thoroughly enjoyed the story of Teatro La Felice and were amazed by it's splendor.
After a big day of walking around Venice we opted for a quiet dinner in the Grand Canal as we watched the gondolas and boats make their way through the canal. Really difficult way to finish the day!
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