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Ha Noi and Halong: Hell and Heaven
As you will have read Ha Noi is a busy city that leaves much to think about. The main thing is that it seems richer and more in touch with the modern world than anywhere we have been. Shops have TVs and the modern appliances and there is some advertising to that effect. But the road system and driving is utterly chaotic….and completely mad!
Drivers seem incapable of obeying anything like simple signs; red traffic lights. They just continue into the crossing as the traffic from the other way starts. Bikes, of which there are a vast number, seem to ignore cars and rush in to the road seemingly oblivious of any danger. They turn anywhere, and even go the wrong way up one way streets. No one seems to worry about this. Cars and buses vie for space on the roads and it is usually the biggest one that wins. Others give way although in a manner that is both casual and not even paying attention. One guy on a bike that was headed towards our bus in the city never looked at it, took out his mobile phone and began to make a call. Unbelievable!
More 'interesting' were the bikes we saw on the road to Halong. A bike with about 10 piglets in two boxes strapped to the back seat; as our guide said, not their last ride, that is they were not headed towards the slaughter man! On others we see several large sacks of rice hanging off the rear or straddled over the engine.The most extraordinary was a calf/cow that had been trussed up, laid across the rear seat and tied to the bike. We followed it as it headed down the road in front of us, with legs and head moving about!
Crossing the road can be interesting! Pedestrian crossings have no meaning at all so one has to be brave. This means walking steadily and not too slowly whilst keeping an eye no bikes and cars….even when their speed seems excessive. They will miss you!
We walked to a market by a lake on our first night and this was something else. Stalls spread all over the street, vendors selling food and people sitting on the pavements or on tiny chairs whilst bikes and people rushed pass. They sell virtually anything although we bought nothing on this occasion but it was still going at 10 pm.
On Monday we went to Halong Bay and this was surreal compared to Ha Noi. The boat trip lasted 24 hours. A wooden 'Junk' took us out into the bay, one of about 200 similar boats that take groups to look at the limestone stacks. After the madness of Ha Noi this was idyllic, drifting through the water at a very gentle pace whilst being well fed on various fish, prawns and so on. Monday was a little murky but when we awoke today the sun was out and it was warm.
We visited a deep underground cave, went swimming, climbed a hill to a weather station and just enjoyed the relaxation of the place. However, it is important to remember that this was all done in temperatures that make climbing 400 steps hard work. After that we returned to Ha Noi and the madness of the traffic!!
I will let the photographs to show you what it was like.
On the way back to Ha Noi we saw the locals harvesting rice. This involves, amongst other things, leaving the rice out to dry. It was put in drive ways, on the edge of the road and even, yes, on the road. As we drove past some were beginning to rake up the seeds as the day was ending, until the next day when they do it all over again.
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