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I´ve been travelling since last Wednesday, walking since Thursday morning. I have walked through the lush, green pasture lands in the foothills of the French Pyrennies, the high barren commonages straddling the border of France and Spain inhabited only by wild crocus flowers and wild Cantabrian horses. I have decended down the steep woodland forests into Roncevalles and into Zubiri, before escaping out of the woodland and into the ancient walled city of Pamplona, where I rested on Saturday evening with some of my new Peregrino friends.
After a Sunday morning sleep-in until 7am, I shook off any vino-tinto induced groggyness by walking up across a mountain ridge lined by vast wind-turbines which stood like sentries, rigid against the wind. Beyond this ridge, recently shorn corn and sunflower fields gave way to almond trees, some bending towards the path, generously offering their bounty to weary and hungry pilgrims on their way to Puente la Reine.
The old Roman bridge of Puente la Reine, standing resolute and proud in the town stood in striking contrast to the remains of another which I crossed along my path to Estella. Along the way I walked along by olive groves and vineyards bearing young fruit, and fast wheat and corn fields which had alread given up their harvest. Estrella, a remarkable, and somewhat wealthy town, was a huge surprise to the weary pilgrim, as it opened out after a taxing and difficult final few hours.
The dry and unfriendly lands from Estrella to Los Arcos, barren of all shelter until towards the end of the trail, were quite a contrast to the small but bountiful ridges and hollows, overflowing with olive groves and vines between Los Arcos and Logroño, capital of the region of La Rioga. Along the way, we chanced upon a village festival at Viana, an ancient and beautiful village perched high on a conical hill looking down towards Logroño, nestled ten kilometres away along the banks of the River Ebro which flows south-east through the ancient city of Zaragosa before opening out into the Mediterranian.
The landscape of the Camino is already diverse and spectacular, though occasionally challenging for the walker. A few of those who left Saint Jean Pied de Port with me on Thursday have had to fall behind due to injury or ill-health. The first two days of walking are particularily challenging.
The landscape equally rewards the Peregrino with spectacular views, as well as bountiful fruits such as blackberry, elderberry, grape, peach and almond, to sustain us along our way.
This truly is Gods Country!
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