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After a relatively sound 6hr bus journey to Potosi, that was packed to the max (including a nmad Irish chap called Ger) we grabbed a taxi to the infamous Koala Inn. Where bumped into our newly acquainted travel buddies Jay & Helen. At an altitude of 4060m we were struggling to move! We all met up at a cool restaurant aptly called 4060 and had a great night!
We met up with an Irish lad called Ultan and a Australian girl called Eve in our hostel. We decided that we would do the mine tour the following day then head to La pas on the overnight bus in the evening, so we arranged the trip with the hostel and then booked our ticket to La Paz we had to be up early for the trip so it would be an early night.
The following morning we arose bright eyed and bushy tailed, had breakfast and then got the mini bus to the mine store where we could buy Dynamite and Cocoa leaves for the miners.
Our guide for the day was called Pedro Negro (black Peter) whom you can see on the videos is an extremely funny, dude.
He described how the miners make their money, the poor working conditions that they have to endure., not to mention the heat!
After purchasing the gifts we headed to the processing site just up the road to tour the process facilities. Thet mine allsorts, licorice included...I swear i saw Bertie lugging around with his big sweet heed!
After looking around the processing plant we headed to the mine stores to get our equipment, we needed protective trousers and tops helmet with light, wellies too...very attractive!
We jumped into the van and of we set to the mines. We were split into 2 groups, English and Spanish speaking. We then made our way to the entrance..
We followed our guide into the tunnels of the María de Potosí mine (Bolivia).
By allowing Tourist to see these mines, we get to understand the risky and appauling conditions they endure.
Off we set to ascend and to descend through galleries and tunnels. Strange, powdery, almost unbreathable air. Sensation of breathlessness. Doubtful, uncertain steps, perhaps fearful... Maybe the best thing would be to return and feel the sun again, we all struggled to gain our breath and the heat was something else you could taste the dust and gases etc.
But there is no chance to go back. Steps get larger, become vigorous and repetitive. The hollowness of the mines - swallows the men, transforming them into blurred shadows.
The echo of the galleries gives a strange ambience, the light hurts the eyes that are now accustomed to the shades. The golden radiance of the lanterns washes over a coppery face of chisel marked wrinkles. A smile appears in the recently illuminated face, while nasty and restless hands try to frighten off the intruding rays of light. We offered the miners our coca leaves and fizzy drinks, they received with gratitude. The miners worship the devil whilst they are in the mines. They believe that because they are working in the depths of the earth they need his protection. They called him Teo the white devil.
A contrast to the official history of the Villa Imperial de Potosí: of the stories of adventurous and sagacious conquerors that found the fortune in Cerro Rico are the dramas of thousands of natives forced to work in the extraction of the silver. Slag in the city, discouragement inside the mines... and churches and mansions were built and there were fascinating parties.
Nobody wanted to hear the distant wailings of death that shook the bowels of Cerro Rico. The Colonial city was wrapped by the splendid halo of fortune. Frenzy and ostentation. The streets crowded with people, famous artists swarmed in the land of silver; so why should we worry about the lives of the men of the Andes? They were not worthy enough, the only important thing were the mineral rich hills that fattened the coffers of the crown.
"Here we leave part of our life. I swear to God that it is very difficult gaining a living in the mines, there are so many dangers: the gases, the collapses, an explosive wrongly installed.
Our guide told us that 22 miners had lost their life this year already but it has always been the same. "You don't have any idea of how many of us have died in the tunnels."
We were all glad to get out of there i have to admit it was the hardest thing i think i have ever done the double ironman was a blast compared to that! When we came out we had a chance to set of the dynamite we bought. Our guide had purchased a melon to blow up! So he hollowed a hole out put the fertilizer in and then the dynamite and fuse. See Video. A cool way way to finish the tour.
After showering and eating we chilled around the hostel waiting to get the overnight bus to La Paz.
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