The river area we are in is beautiful. We wake up with the sound of wild gibbons calling in the forest across the river from us. Our guide, Eric, has put us in touch with Osman the elephant whisperer. Apparently the elephants recognize him and let him get closer than any other person due to the fact that ten years ago he rescued a very young elephant that had been swept downstream from the herd and was on the point of drowning much to the mother elephants distress. He grabbed it and managed to steer it and the boat back to the shallows and watched the happy reunion. The mother looked at him and held her gaze for a few mins before turning round and leading her calf back into the forest. Osman said there seemed to be an unspoken communication in those moments and now he can approach the herd whenever he wants. How cool is that. 

Osman took us onseveral night boat trips and gave us some unique wildlife moments - approaching brilliantly hued blue eared kingfishers asleep on branches over the river. Kitty actually managed to gently stroke one without it waking up and I managed to get some fame filling photos on flash without disturbing them. We saw pythons, yellow banded mangrove snakes, orang utans, proboscis monkees and short and long tailed macaques. 

One highlight was when Osman saw a young salt water croc about 75cm long Eric held a powerful torch on it as we drifted closer. Osman managed to plunge his hands deep into the water and came up holding it. Needless to say we now have photos of the family holding holding a salt water croc but I have to admit to feeling more than a little nervous of Mum being around to respond to her offspring's calls. 

The next day we went to Gomatong caves. Imagine a cave big enouch to fly a jumbo jet in and you will get an idea of the this subterranean marvel. But be warned, it's not for the squeamish. Their are millions of wrinkle lipped bats  and over thousands of years there has accumulated to biggest pile of pooh in the world. Feeding on this are billions of cockroaches. So many the floor seems to be alive with them and feeding on them a creature that looks like something from Ridley Scott's Alien  - a foot long centipede so venomous if it bites you expect a week or two in intensive care.  

In the jungle around the cave we saw more wild orang utans that look like they were still looking like bank managers considering that loan application but it wasn't looking likely. 

We're getting reports of snow and ice at home which is hard to imagine when  you're here, feelking overdressed in sandals and shorts. I suppose if it gets nippy you can put a t shirt on.