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Jodhpur, in the state of Rajasthan, is found on the eastern fringe of the Thar Desert hosting a population of about 1 million people. The city huddles in the hills below the mighty Mehrangarth Fort. The blue city denotation comes from a color wash where indigo was added to a lime based whitewash used to deter insects. The blue originally denoted the high caste of Brahmin, however now is very common. Back in 1391, Jodhpur was the most important town of the Marwar in Rajputana. The then Rathore chief Rao Jodha relocated from an exposed site at Mandor to the massive steep-sided, impregnable Mehrangarh Fort. His success proved great and he amassed huge wealth from trade. It wasn't until 100 years later that the Mughals under Akbar got his hands on the city.
Mehrangarth Fort towers 400 feet above the surrounding plain and over the blue city with is "soaring windowless walls". The main gate, Jai Poi, is the first of the fort's seven gates and stands guarded by idols and offering temples. The 6th of the gates has a hard right turn and the door enforced with sharp iron spikes to ward off charging elephants. Just inside once can observe the handprints of the Maharaja Man Sing's widows, left in 1843 as they left the palace to commit sati (suicide) on his funeral pyre (a pile of wood assembled for cremation). The practice of sati is no longer acceptable or legal. The Coronation Courtyard, just beyond the final gate, is where the maharajas are crowned on carved marble throne. Overlooking the courtyard one can observe the elaborate cared jail (lattice) work that nearly covers the sandstone walls. Some of Rajasthan's finest palaces are contained within Mehrangarth Fort and its museum contains many very priceless relics of Indian court life. It was a day when there were lots of students touring as well and we had fun with them - them taking our picture and us taking theirs.
We returned to Umaid Bhawan Palace (half of which is the Ajit Bhawan hotel) where we had supper the night before. Commissioned by its namesake Maharaja Umaid Singh in 1929; Chittar Palace as it is now often called was constructed from local chittar sandstone. This construction was actually a famine relief project that kept 3,000 labourers employed for some 16 years. The present Maharaja now occupies on 1/3 of the palace and the rest is the luxury hotel Ajit Bhawan Hotel. A portion is also dedicated to a museum that houses a lot of European crockery and glassware probably gifts of visiting dignitaries.
Our lunch was a traditional Thali lunch. Thalis are how traditional Indian eat at home with a round tray with small bowls called katori. The thatched buildings around the gardens were graced with huge marigold gardens. The bright flower is considered to be a symbol of peace and prosperity and will usually be seen decorating weddings due to their longevity after being cut. Outside in a partial garage we were able to also see a collection of vintage cars. Back at our hotel we see crafters decorating for a wedding with lots of marigolds of course.
That evening we proceed to the Osian village 64 kilometer drive (1 hour) north of Jodhpur in the Thar desert. Legend and now science show that in the Jurassic period (some 200 million years ago) the Thar desert was once a sea. We first have a camel safari - about an hour's ride into the desert and watch the sun set. We mostly successfully are able to get on, up and actually ride very slowly of course with a handler leading us - thankfully. On our return we are treated to happy hour, around a camp fire complete with entertainment of cultural dancers and musicians, well guarded by our camels and their tenders. This all followed by a traditional local Indian dinner with freshly baked naan (like flat bread), made over an open fire.
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