It's street after street of indigenous women sitting on sidewalks with a bag or two of fruits or herbs--some on display--some tucked under their wide skirts. They sit there rain or shine, sometimes so wrapped in plastic sheets all you see is their hat brims. They live in surrounding pueblos and don't leave for home until after 5 at night, so every afternoon when the rains come they're the most pitiful sight.It's streets so steep and narrow cars...