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The best way to describe Morocco is ´A Rollercoaster Ride!'.
After an 8 hour flight, that was made extra enjoyable by a lovely english air hostess who gave us a fruit platter and glasses of champagne for our ´almost honeymoon' as she put it!, we arrived in Casablanca. Getting through the airport was easy enough. We found our way onto the train into the city and at the other end we were offered to share a cab with a local who could tell we were a little lost. Unfortunately it doesn't matter where you go around the world one thing that remains consistent are cab drivers! They are always trying to rip you off! Ours tried to charge us 50 dihrams for a trip that is worth 10-15! We ended up paying 20 to keep the peace.
As soon as we checked into our room we knew the luxury of Abu Dhabi was over and that budget Morocco was about to become the norm for us! Although simple it was comfortable and we had a fan in our room, which we were soon to discover probably made that room the most luxurious!
We ventured into the Medina to have a look around and ended up getting lost on our way back! We eventually stumbled across our hostel many blisters later! After some much needed rest we awoke to a free breakfast of baguettes with butter and honey and coffee that tasted like muddy water. At least it was free!! I had the pleasure of a cold shower shared with bugs but Jarrod was lucky enough to get hot water! After checking out we headed back to the train station onwards to Marrakech.
Now Marrakech was not what I expected. It's best likened to Bali for Europeans, but the locals are less friendly. I'm not sure if this is the norm or if they were extra grumpy due to Ramadan??? We stayed in a cute little Riad in a laneway that from the front looked like a tiny hole in the wall but once inside opened up into a courtyard overlooked by 3 storeys of balconies and a rooftop terrace. Very pretty indeed. That night we strolled through the Medina and the main square that was filled with snake charmers, monkeys, acrobats and hustlers! The market stalls were impressive paticularly the lanterns and the leather goods. The following day we decided to hop on the local tourist bus which loops around the city and gives an audio tour. This was a great way to see the city without getting hassled by touts and also gave us some history about the place. This definately improved my view of Marrakech. The difference between the Old Medina and the Ville Nouvelle (New City) is incredible. The architecture is a blend of the Moroccan and European styles. Even new buildings are made to retain these styles so they blend seamlessly with the old. Visually Marrakech is beautiful but as for the heart of the city, I think it has been lost to the tourists! I believe we overstayed by 1 day!
From Marrakech we took a 4.5hr train ride upto Rabat which is the capital of Morocco. The temperature was noticably cooler as we headed closer to the ocean. The people were also noticably friendlier! We checked into a hotel near the train station and headed through the Medina to the Kasbah des Oudaias which overlooked the bay. The Andelucian gardens here were gorgeous, and the view from over the bay was stunning. This city is much more developed being the administrative hub of Morocco. They even have trams that kick Melbourne's tram's arses!!!
After a day in Rabat we boarded yet another train for Meknes. Although this is a small town in comparison to those we had been to previously, it is only an hour train ride from Fes and we could get to our hotel on foot. By this stage we had, had our fair share of taxi experiences! One more and I do believe Jarrod would be spending a night in a Moroccan jail for assault!!! We checked into the Hotel Majestic dumped our bags and headed to Fes on the train. This is probably where our Moroccan experience started to improve dramatically.
We met a young guy at the train station who spoke very good english. He advised us to head to the tourism office in Fes and hire a guide for the day as this is the best way to see the true Medina. He also warned us against the Faux Guides that like to hassle the tourists, informing us to check for their licences before accepting a tour. On arrival in Fes we followed the signs towards the tourist office. After a few stops to check our map we were approached by a guy asking where we were heading. This is how we met Rachid. We told him we were heading for the Tourism Office. This was our lucky day! Rachid worked for the tourism office as a guide. We checked his badge to be sure!! After a quick cab ride, much easier when with someone who speaks the language, we arrived at the old medina gates. The medina in Fes is the oldest and largest in Morocco and still has traditional workshops where they have stone and metal workers, the tannery and tailors. There are no cars only donkeys!! Stepping through the Bab (Gate) is like stepping back in time. Rachid took us to all the non tourist areas, authentic Morocco as he called it. He assured us he knew where us Aussies liked to go! He knew the Medina like the back of his hand. It's amazing how they know their way around, I was lost within about 10mins!!
One of the most impressive things in the Medina is the Tannery. The leather is cured naturally using things like pigeon poo and dyed with flowers and spices such as tumeric and indigo. This job is extremely labour intensive, but this trade is passed down through the generations and is therefore truly an honour for these people to follow in their father's and grandfather's footsteps. They have a seriously strong work ethic here!!! Rachid continued to walk us up and down through the medina corridors for at least 4 to 5 hours! We visited fabric workshops and carpet dealers. We eventually purchased a hand made Berber carpet for 3,800Dh, which Rachid assures us was a very good deal. Business is very slow during Ramadan. Apparantley they only made 12€ profit on the carpet, but I´m not sure how honest carpet dealers are though!!!
Rachid tells us he feels like he's known us for years! After a chance meeting, he was on his way to the pharmacy to buy medicine for he's daughter when he ran into us, he then has to ring his wife to tell her he's working! He gave Jarrod the nickname Ali Baba, something to do with his beard I think! They all found it hilarious.
After our medina experience it was off to our Moroccan Top Gear experience. Otherwise known as Grand Taxis!! Basically how this system works is, they squash 6 people like sardines into a car and split the fare between them. They then drive as fast as they possibly can to the destination. I do believe our driver was trying to break the land speed record!! Oh did I mention they have a habit of turning a 2 lane highway into 4? We literally over took someone who was overtaking, all while a truck was speeding at us in the other direction! But we did survive!!
The next morning we got the train to Tangier. We shared a sauna box (train carriage) with a lovely lady called Layla and her son Yunis. Jarrod spent the next 2 hours practising his French on her. She was very impressed!! One thing to be said of the Moroccan people, well those of Fes anyway, is they are very hospitable! After only speaking to Layla for about 30 minutes she had already invited us to stay with her next time we visit. Rachid also offered us his home! I think a return shopping trip is definately on the cards!
We only spent a night in Tangier, by this stage we were all Medined out! We headed to the main square to find somewhere for tea and found 2 neighbouring cafes that fought over the customers like vultures. Very amusing. A table of young Italian blokes sat next to us and watching them try to order from the owner was like watching a scene out of faulty towers. Mid sentence the waiter would run off as he'd seen potential customers in the square that he had to nab before his neighbour did. He would then return to the Italians only to nip off again to set the table and seat these guests before they were stolen by next door. This happened 3 or 4 times. They then gave our food to the Italians who were yet to order and then quickly retrieved it once they realised their mistake and served it to us. I was in hysterics by this stage as too were the Italians!
The following morning we made our way to the port nearby to catch the ferry to Tarifa, Spain. Just a 35min ride later and we touched down in our 2nd continent for the week!
Morocco was memorable!
- comments
Megan We are loving it!! Keep it coming! Buenos Dias from Me - OLA (we are Diego) from the kiddies xxx
Mum and Dad Fantastic! Need to save all these blogs to publish as your travel guide when you return! Makes us feel like we are travelling with you. Lovd & xxx
Kurt Schwier Hey guys! Really nice to hear things are going well and surviving the taxis! Sounds fantastic and I'm impressed with your writing....keep it up! Cheers
Sarah What a rush to get you going on your trip! Glad you saw all the positives in every experience. Keep the entries coming. Xxx
Gayle & Ken Loved reading these, there's a book in this trip, can't wait for next installment. xx