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Beep... Beep... Beep!! What is that noise? Oh, s***, it is the alarm... 6:30am and we need to get up! We have to pack quickly and ask for a taxi at reception, but they get no answer... We need to leave now, so we walk through the centre of La Paz to get to a small cafe where we meet our guide (Phil). We have time for a quick breakfast (coffee and ham and cheese filled croissants), before we are crossing the busy streets of La Paz to get in to the bus that is fully loaded with all our gear for todays bike ride.
We drive out of the city and are climbing the whole way until we finally get to La Cumbre, which lies at 4650m. Here we are given all our kit for the day, including the bikes that could make or break us? Mine is called Columbia and Lynne´s is Ignorante!
We set off on tarmac, which gives us a chance to get used to the ´most powerful brakes´ you have ever used! This is what our guide, Phil, says in his briefing and he is right, a gentle squeeze is more than enough and a wrong squeeze could send you flying over your handlebars... Back break first in an emergency! The views are awesome and we quickly feel more comfortable on the bike and begin to open up on the road, even managing to overtake a bus!
We stop every so often to take in the views of the valleys around us, the rivers and small waterfalls and llamas that we go wizzing by, and we even go through a drug check point... The rubber glove man was very delicate! Lynne and I are loving it and right now there is minimal danger and just pure pleasure if you attack the hill!
We have already done about 30km downhill, but suddenly, the terrain changes and Phil is talking through an 8km uphill section... We all decide to have a go, even though at altitude we know this is going to hurt! We start the climb together, but I quickly find a good pace for myself and push on. It does not seem to bad until we hit ´Heartbreak´ and as the name says this was not nice... tarmac gave way to gravel and the incline increased! My lungs were burning and when I was almost there, a bus came past and changed gear right next to me, sending a huge plumb of thick black smoke in to my breathing space! Eventually, the incline decreased and I made it to the check point, where a gladly removed my bike from my arse and stretched my legs out. Lynne was not too far behind and I was well chuffed as she was the first girl up the climb and whizzed past with a smile on her face?
This was it... We were now at the top of North Yungas Road, Grove´s Road, Coroico Road, Camino de las Yungas, El camino de la muerte, Road of Death or Death Road! Officially christened ´The World´s Most Dangerous Road´ in 1995, this road has claimed 18 cyclists in 15 years and has claimed many more lifes in road accidents. The road is on average 3.2 metres wide, with no guard rails and a 600m sheer drop on one side, with many crosses on the way down reminding you exactly what price a mistake can cost!
Normally in Bolivia you drive on the right, but for ´Death Road´ you have to ride on the left, so the 600m drop is only a foot to your left! We set out with extreme caution, as the loose stones and gravel make cornering much more of a challenge. We begin the ride in the clouds, which turns the sheer drop in to a mystical cauldron and the idea of what you can´t see can´t hurt you, is very wrong!
As we decend and the clouds begin to clear, the views are awesome, but I am a little pre-occupied trying to keep my bike upright. We stop at a few memorials, where we learn about the first cyclist death on the road and the last one (only 6-months ago!). The danger on this road is real and you have to respect it, but at the same time the thrill is from the risk and Lynne and I begin to once again open the bikes up and carry a bit more speed!
The clouds catch us once again and the waterfalls on the side of the road begin to build and attack with more vengance. We pass the narrowest part of the road, where 2 tracks turn in to 1 and the power of the waterfalls overhead increases. We grit our teeth and go for it, getting wet, but staying on the road! From here on out the road gradually gets wider and dryer and I really start to feel confident in myself and the bike. I really start pushing and sit in the front group trying to keep up with the guide, although a few times I have a reality check as the road bites back and lets me know who is in control!
Finally, after 63km of downhill, we arrive at the base of the road... We have survived! We end up at a small animal sancuary (we get to see some monkeys, parrots and a small Caiman) where we all thoroughly enjoy a warm shower, a big buffet lunch and a few beers!! Our travels have taken us to many amazing places, but there is a small list of things that have really made an impact upon us... Today is another one to add to the list!
- comments
thea Jullie zijn wel een paar waaghalzen hoor, maar erg knap dit gedaan te hebben!! Fiets je dan op een mountainbike, of hebben ze daar ook een elektr. Gazelle? Lieve groet,uit Drachten,alles o.k.
Jan Lynne, Hartelijk gefeliciteerd met jouw 27ste verjaardag!!!! Veel plezier, samen met Ben, Netty en Tom. Het lijkt ons een bijzondere locatie om dit te vieren. Liefs van Elske, Thea en Jan