Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
So having ventured up to Luang Prabang we decided to take the least 'flashpacker' way to our next destination (North Thailand) which is a 2 day slow boat along the Mekong River. With a night in Pak Beng. Now again we had heard horror stories regarding this trip, about the drivers refusing to leave until they had 200 people packed into a boat designed for 100. But we both decided to man up and take whatever was thrown at us on the chin. As it turns out we didn't even need to use our chins. We had a very comfortable ride the first day, the chairs having been robbed straight out of a transit van and refreshments available. Even a western toilet, no squatting skills needed. We set sail at 8:30am and it was a beautiful sunny day. I even managed to top a bit of my fading tan (now we are into rainy season tanning possibilities are not great). After many stops to pick up/drop off people at the remote stops along the river and some amazing views we arrived in Pak Beng at 6:30pm.
As usual we were swamped with people trying to get us to their guesthouses but I was more worried about getting up the steep hill (with no steps) with my own body weight again on my back. To my relief a helpful local grabbed my hand a pulled me up to safety, Matt stumbled on behind. We settled on the first guesthouse we came to and for just over £2 a night we couldn't really complain. Although I would have paid extra not to get the surprise I got first thing in the morning - bleary eyed, went to the toilet only to pretty much fall off it again at the sight of a spider the same size as my hand in the toilet roll holder!!
Anywho, we dumped our bags and went for an explore, which didn't last very long as this place was tiny. We probably walked for about 200m before deciding there was nothing more to see. Having not eaten (except for a bag of crisps) we looked for some dinner. As we were looking at a menu on the roadside we were enticed in by the waiter telling us his mother is the chef and she would make us good food. Sold!! We ordered, had a look around and realise they had practically turned their front room into a make shift restaurant. The children were sat watching tv and during our spring rolls out pops the mother to breast feed the youngest, interesting. The food was nice and we politely turned down their offer of free Laos Whisky, had more than our fair share of that whilst tubing. Headed back to our hotel for a few rounds of UNO and an early night, back on the boat again at 8am.
We awoke to the sound of torrential rain, joy. After getting thoroughly waterproofed up and picking up our pre made packed lunch we headed off getting thoroughly soaked. Turns out the second day was to be even more peaceful than the first with only 15 people on the boat. Although there is always a danger of the driver not going if there isn't enough people and if you have to be at the border by 5 to get your connecting bus at 6:30 this is a worrying thought. But not long after 8:30 we heard the engine go and were relieved to be on our way again. The rain cleared up and off we go for a second 9 hour stint on a boat. Fingers crossed for the border crossing and getting our bus to Chang Mai.
Just a little bit about what we saw on the way, the Mekong River is a massive river and every now and again, in the middle of no where you can see a little bamboo hut community. Me and Matt are both baffled at how you survive/what you do living 'out in the sticks', we thought Tadley was secluded. There is no electricity or anything we would consider normal to live everyday life yet these people come running to the river side to smile and wave hello at the passing boat. Over the 2 days we regularly stop to let off people at one of these remote villages with enough luggage it looks like they are moving house but I guess they are some kind of supplies. How these people survive is amazing to us Westerners and after one night in Pak Beng we realised that we really are spoilt. That 50" tv doesnt seem like that much of a must have now.
- comments