Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
27th October
Happy Diwali! The festival actually started yesterday but as we were in transit for most of it we didn't really experience it that much. Well, until the sun set that is, then all hell broke loose! It went from light to dark so quickly here, I literally looked down for a second and the sun had set without me noticing. That's when Diwali really got started - gone was the gentle chanting from across the lake, the peaceful atmosphere shattered by the LOUDEST FIREWORKS I'VE EVER HEARD! Honestly, from the noise you'd think you'd be watching the greatest firework display on earth [for those of you who've been anywhere near Baga/Calangute beach on New Years' Eve you'll have an idea of what I'm talking about!] - the reality is that the Indians don't care so much about the visual aspect of fireworks; it's all about the BANG. Bang after bang after bang after bang, echoing around the valley - dad commented at one point that it sounded like the Somme! And this went on, and is still going on I might add, all night long. Luckily, I've discovered that I can sleep through pretty much anything! Actually, that's not strictly true, the fireworks I can handle; the drummers outside my window at 9am? Not so much, Still, after another nine hours sleep (gosh Holly Butterworth will be proud of me!)I wasn't complaining and now I'm up sitting by the lake having some breakfast and watching people bathe in the ghat below us with fireworks still booming in every direction. Bizarre doesn't even cover it.
Now for a little background knowledge about the wonderful place in which I'm lucky enough to be sitting: Pushkar is a prominent Hindu pilgrimage town that devout Hindus should visit at least once in their lifetime if possible - it's apparently quite unlike anywhere else in Rajasthan. The town curls around a holy lake which is said to have appeared when Brahma dropped a lotus flower. It also has one of the world's few Brahma temples. There are 52 bathing ghats around the edge of the lake and over 400 temples so the town literally hums with regular puja (prayers) in the form of chanting (as previously mentioned), drums, gongs and devotional songs. The main street is one long bazaar stretching all around the lake and despite being a hippy haven; the town has managed to remain enchantingly small and authentically mystic. The area is completely vegetarian (no meat or eggs) and is alcohol free which is certainly different from everywhere else I've visited in India. I love the food so far though - falafel with hummus and onion salad with friend aubergine last night - yum. Dad mentioned that there's a German bakery nearby so no doubt I'll find myself there before the week is out! Out hotel also has a section in the menu entitled, 'Home Sick Food', listing various types of baked potato which made me laugh.
I've settled into Pushkar life far quicker than I thought possible. After a little honey lemon ginger tea this morning (my new FAVOURITE drink for any time of day) I've spent the better part of six hours lounging on a mattress in the shade surrounded by plump pillows reading, catching the lake in my eye line whenever I turn the page. I was shocked when I discovered that five hours had passed. I cannot remember the last time I was able to be this way; to sit and think and read with no possible distractions apart from the occasional chat with fellow travellers staying here. The hotel probably has less than ten rooms in total: so far we've met a couple of Spanish girls, a 59 year old Scotsman with waist length dreads who smokes mint (because it doesn't make him cough!), a French couple who've been coming to Pushkar for 17 years and a German lady who picks all the onions out of her food (which believe me, is hard to do in India!). Dad told me that Hotel Lotus isn't even in the English guide books but it is in the French one which might explain the diverse European clientele. The additional residents of the hotel that are worth mentioning are the wildlife. On the terrace I've seen some beautiful cats, lots of lizards (four of which slept in my room last night - I named them John, Paul, George and Ringo in honour of an actor from Delhi that we met who didn't know that the Beatles were from Liverpool!), monkeys and ants of all shapes and sizes. I'm not a massive insect fan at the best of times (and by this I mean I'm not a big fan of insects, although the alternative is true also, I'm not a fan of massive insects either!!) but it's surprising how quickly you get used to them. Dad told me as soon as we arrived that it's much easier to let them walk over you (after all, we are an obstacle that's blocking their way!) than attempt to brush them off and get bitten. I've been in Pushkar for 24 hours now and I've just about got the hang of it. The difference in size between them here is astonishing - having creatures of the same species being as varied as they are - it's like having two human beings standing side by side, only one is the size of a giraffe. My sister Tor is something of an expert on ants for some reason, I'm sure she'd have far greater insight into some of their odd behaviours. One of the larger ones (and by large I mean it's just short of an inch long) carried a dead ant over to me a minute ago, placing him carefully next to my book. He'd removed him from a crowd of smaller ants that were slowly surrounding him. Rescuing a fallen comrade sprang to mind - a peculiar thought really but I considered it appropriate.
The fireworks seem to be starting up again despite it being an hour or so away from sunset. The distant rumblings sound like the beginnings of a thunderstorm. Not in the same league as last night granted - it appears they may have gotten a little carried away in the first day of Diwali and used up all their firework supplies!
28th October
I woke early this morning to shower as there's hot water 'for a while' here in the mornings. It's funny to describe 8am as early now - if I were back in London at 8am on a Friday morning I'd be getting on the Victoria line at Stockwell station and heading to work. As much as I miss it, I can safely bet that everyone I know would trade places with me to be able to wake up, open my bedroom door and look out to such a beautiful view. Twice now I've woken and forgotten where I am; it's honestly like a dream waking up here. The shower definitely managed to bring me back to reality - my quest for hot water was less than successful but when it's already 28 degrees outside a cold shower isn't the same teeth chattering horror as back home. Having a family of monkeys playing on the tin roof above me wasn't a typical experience either but it certainly made me smile. I spent the rest of the morning (and most of the afternoon come to think of it!) reading a book given to me as a parting gift by the lovely Miss Rosie Fox, 'East of the Sun' by Julia Gregson. Having no reason to put a book down really was wonderful and I finished it this afternoon. Rosie told me that she chose it because it's about a young woman (my age in fact) who sets sail from London to India in 1928, not unlike myself - except my journey was less than twenty hours door to door as opposed to weeks at sea and much less glamorous, sailing on the Kaiser sounds to have been utterly balloon! 'Balloon' (I should explain) is a word the young women use in the book to describe something being wonderful, reminiscent of Miranda's mother, "such fun!) - I'm bringing it back to England with me in April.
Mid afternoon, we set off to walk up the mountain to the Savitri temple. Dad assured me that it would take less than an hour to get to the top (true), he did not tell me how steep the final ascent was! Steps all the way - starting with proper steps and ending in roughly organised large rocks - and a pretty steep uphill climb. TOTALLY worth it when you get to the top though, you have the most incredible panoramic view of Pushkar: the town, the lake, the surrounding mountains, and at this time of year the site of the camel fair setting up ready to start next week. You can even enjoy the view with an ice cold drink or a cup of chai as despite the location, as well as the temple at the top there's also a small cafe and a CD shop! Dad was right; they definitely didn't mention those in the guide books! The climb down was actually harder than climbing up; you really had to concentrate on not falling over a step and off the edge of the mountain. We met quite a few other people heading up as we were leaving - we were lucky enough to only meet a herd of goats on the way up and were alone at the top enjoying the view without other people milling around. My only advice for doing this in the future would be to dress appropriately - I'm certain my own ascent was hindered by wearing harem pants and Puma dance trainers, not exactly climbing gear!
- comments
Linda Butterworth Great to hear from you, glad you are enjoying it all. Sorry I'm not too good at replying! Lots of love, Linda x