Buenos Aires by Baz
Bus and Randy Newman
We had 12 hours on the bus on our way to Buenos Aires. I love these times to relax, read and listen to music. I point this out only to thank my Uncle Gerry and my father (known as Derm) for introducing me to the humour and massive musical talent of Randy Newman. I think he is brilliant.
We were very excited upon arriving in Buenos Aires.Not just because of the big city with Tango Shows, bars, restaurants and so much to do, but also because there was a feeling that we were settling for a while.Unpacking the bags, taking off the smelly walking boots and taking an apartment for a month.It took 4 nights to get the apartment organised, and during that time we stayed in a hostel, our first time in a dormitory. I had slept in a hostel dorm only once before (after a nights drinking with Jim Lawlor in Dublin) but it was Seonaids first experience of communal sleeping, and not one she enjoyed. Its a strange thing to sleep in a room with 7 other people.I don't think its comparable to what my mother experienced growing up in a room with all her sisters in Turf Lodge.Although I didnt like the lack of personal space I found the experience quite relaxing and at night I slept well.
Anyway, after some difficulty we got our apartment sorted. It is in the San Telmo area of Buenos Aires, and is working out a much more cost effective way of staying in the city.
You should be able to check out the pictures of it here.Although it looks nothing like this now, it is a comfortable space.
San Telmo on Sunday
We moved in on Sunday and went immediately to the antiques market in Dorrego Square. This place was just amazing.As we approached the square we could hear the Tango Music, and when we fought our way through the crowds gathered at the cafes and antiques stalls dotted throughout the square we saw two amazing guitarists playing wonderful music.They were accompanied by two tango dancers, but I was most captivated by the guitar playing.I left Seonaid to wonder through the antiques stalls (wishing her mother was there to enjoy them with her) while I stood with the crowds for a good 45 minutes enthralled by the wonderful guitar playing.I only left the music briefly turning away and pretending to look at something else when the hat came round (I mean it was good, but I wouldn't pay money for it).I took a video clip of the guys playing which we´ll try to upload at some stage. The antiques shops were a treat as well with everything from old Grammafones to pens, furniture old knives and guns and some really nice artwork both modern and antique.
On Wednesday we did an organised citytour.A great way to get an introduction to the city. We visited the expensive area of Recolletta and the poor area of Bocca. Both Seonaid and I particularly enjoyed the charm of the Bocca area, with its colourful houses (some of which are home to 2 or 3 families).We also visited the statue of Eva Peron, the first lady of Argentina during the middle of the last century and became a much loved figure in Argentine politics due to her work on behalf of the poor, labour unions and women (More commonly known as Evita).The statue is an impressive and fitting tribute to this great woman, but I was struck by the amount of bird crap that had been deposited on Evita´s head. Surely a figure as loved as she is, and as influential in the history of the nation could have her head cleaned from time to time, or have a hat put on or something.A consequence of "public" art I guess!
We are planning on heading out tomorrow (Saturday night).Looking forward to my first experience of Buenos Aires nightlife.Need to find a suitable Irish Pub to flex my Nationalism and watch the World Cup qualifying Internationals next month.