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Baba woz there
Goa, India
Keethein Go Baii? *
Baba
Know that feeling of walking into familiar territory? Like the one where you're able to wake up in the middle of the night and with eyes wide shut, be able to reach into the fridge for that favorite left over? Yes, that space, to me, would be Goa.
My luggage packed with its unmatched sense of belonging and great appetite for all things wine and fishy, reached a wet and windy Goan morning this June. I arrived much later, being the usual setback of an arrival into this lush green and 'hippified' zone, tucked away in the southern shores of India. One reaches and misses out on the riots, fires and floods, which the land of Mr. Gandhi is known for most times. So you arrive and walk down the steps of your aircraft, taking in the scenes slowly and you realize that with the world going berserk with wireless internet and relationships, Goa still stands as it was, half a century ago, when it was ruled by the Portuguese. Nothing changes here, not even the jars my grandma makes her pickles in.
You might think you would know it all if you Google Goa but I disagree. I have spent so many of my growing years here and I never stop discovering new places. Of course, there are churches and sea shores and coconut trees but there are also those coconut tree climbers who now stand at 60 +, who have many stories to tell over a nice glass of cashew feni- cashew being the native fruit and feni being the alcoholic version of the same. Walking the streets of Goa feels like walking in Portugal and eating fish curry and rice here would mean sitting in heaven with a never-ending appetite for forbidden apples. Yes, it IS known for its feasts and fun but also for the lessons each thatched hut family gives to its young ones. I grew up learning to always talk to strangers, to always laugh when someone falls and to always let the blind lady help me cross the roads. Young uns in Goa are known for their trance parties and their famous Konkani fused English, Konkani being the native language. If I attach a cassette to this page, you could've sampled our dialect, but as I insist, you have to go Goa to understand it more.
I choose to let this appear not as a page from a travel magazine but as a personal account of what's available and what's not here. Let's shift to its four famous towns: Panjim- the capital, Margao, Vasco and Ponda. These would be what Dubai and Deira are for the UAE. Out of the many sites you can take corny pictures with, the Fort Aguada plays a good host as it did years ago the prisoners held captive by the Portuguese. If you're looking to sit in solitude doing absolutely nothing but watch palm leaves sway to the poetry of the ocean, go get yourself a spot in the peaceful village of Palolem where the masseuse needs a masseuse. Similarly, there are the pockets of villages scattered all over the islands, known for its fisher folk, schools and chapels which wake up to trance music during the months of December, where half the world and its aunty come visit us in their pyjamas. They come here to enjoy the 'no phone reception' extended holiday era where their emails are set to auto response saying 'in tree house'. As for me, I go there each year to understand that jungle better. Its only time until Starbucks gets themselves a space in it and CNN covers hides their cameras there, but until that time comes, go check it out. No, you don't need a book or pesticide. Just be prepared to find that moment of near eternal silence, the one that tells you so much more about yourself.
Hokay, for those
And if you're wondering what the title means, look it up.
* Wassup lady?
The Buzz Guide to Goa:
Dollars or Euros?
Hard core Rupees.
SPF?
During the summer months of April and May, yes.
Bargain?
Always cut the said price in half and bargain further. Of course if it's a poor little village child, be generous.
Party?
You must be kidding me.
Hang around for:
Ever.
Absolutely 100% do not:
Not pick up a strange looking package in public places.
Get used to:
A side to yourself you didn't know existed.
Fashion revelation:
Sarongs and cotton rich clothing during the summers.
Sarongs and cotton rich clothing during the winter.
Preferable Pre-Travel Purchase:
A large phonebook to fit in new life long buddies.
Good idea:
Read up on the lands history.
Don't miss:
The Aguada light house and Palolem beach
Gotta try:
Fish curry and bathing with the elephants.
Go to Goa to:
Find yourself.
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