After a happy foray into Malaysia with Kirsty the girl I was back in the Middle Kingdom.

I got straight out of the crap city of Zhengzhou and arrived in the ancient capital of Kaifeng. Famed for resolutely holding off China's wrathful wrecking ball and maintaining its oldschool charm, Kaifeng lived up to its reputation.

For the first time I decided to ignore my Lonely Planet's suggestions and seek out my own accomodation, convinced that I could find cheaper.

I went to a filthy looking guesthouse sure it would be one of the cheapest options. Three quid later and I was satisfied with a simple, clean room.

Five quid was the asking price but I've gotten into the habit of asking for everything to be made a little cheaper, no matter how happy the original price makes me. I'm travelling in the off season so it almost always works.

I went wandering and discovered I was in a cool little walled city with a low skyline (thanks to fears of deep foundations disturbing the even more ancient city below).

There seemed to be a lot of music shops in town so I resumed my mission to buy a little Chinese guitar-like instrument. I had no luck but was given an address and told to try it tomorrow I would.

The real attraction of Kaifeng was the spectacle of its night market.

As day turns to night hundreds of stalls appear along two intersecting streets, the crossroads forming the natural vied for centre where most of the action seemed to converge.

Horrible Beijing opera mingled with horrible street musicians and the assault of vendors advertising their various wares.

It was kind of place that called for a group rather than a lone diner and I had gotten used to dining with the Girl. Hoping to employ my innate talent of being foreign to obtain an invitation to join a group of Chinese diners I took my time picking a stall.

With no luck I dined alone. I had made plans to visit Michelle the following day so I knew I'd be eating with company for the next couple of days.

For those wondering who Michelle is, I didn't really know myself at the time. A friend of a friend who I'd never met is teaching in China so it seemed obvious if a little bizarre to pay her a visit.

We already had so much in common.

I would be heading in her direction the next day.