7th April 2010 - The Wedding

Almost anytime you take a Tuk Tuk journey around the streets of Phnom Penh you will pass a temporary construction at some point or other, usually with music blaring out. This normally signifies a wedding. Occasionally, the street is largely blocked, leaving a stream of traffic either way competing for right of passage. Needless to say on such occassions, in the heat of day, frustration abounds. The wedding industry however must contribute, along with visa renewal to a significant percentage of the countries GNP

As you might have gathered from my marital status, Ive never been overkeen on weddings, however when my sister Ano invited me to the wedding of her ( and thus my) brother, it was an offer I really couldnt refuse

The actual ceremony is a full day of a job involving some 12 or so changes of costume. Fortuneately, I was to be spared such laborious indulgence, and we arrived later on in the afternoon. The venue certainly wasnt going to block off any traffic. Basically the construction had been erected on a large piece of wasteground, next to two volleyball courts, and with other new construction encroaching the perimeter as Phnom Penh steps ever more rapidly it seems into the 21st century.

On first arrival the place was still fairly quiet, and so it was simply a case of meeting all the inlaws and the outlaws. Id had the privilege of meeting my new family in its entireity a few days earlier as everyone had congregated at Pip and Anos place for a prewedding Pow-wow, so it was more a case of reintroduction in cerain instances, but of course many more cases of new faces.

It was around sunset by the time things really started moving for the majority of Guests however. Our table included a host of Anos friends from work, along with myself, another English mate of mine called Harry , and an Aussie called Paco as the statutory Beraing. Ano had actually "bought" the table for the newlyweds as a means of helping them pay for the ceremony. Kinda like corporate sponsorship, without the corporation - although Anos family is almost large enough to be considered as such. Having paid for the table, It is customary in this situation for the guest to make a contribution to their particular "host" if you will. Not that anyone thinks badly of you though if you cant afford to help.

It all starts of course with food. Everything Khmair involves food it seems. Its a true wonder Ive lost so much weight. Course after course - mixed starters, fish, soup, Duck , chicken, Fried rice, and so on and so on. Alcohol is again free for the duration of the evening. As I have mentioned previously, these people may be poor, but they know how to throw a party. The entertainment was a mixed array of singers - including a ladyboy, a woman made up as a singing ghoul, and the obligatory crooning Cambodian equivalent of a poor mans Matt Munroe. The finale of the ceremony is the newlyweds parade down the length of the room for the cake ceremony, where they and the attendees dance around the cake a bit before more ceremonial speech from the crooner, and the lighting of sparklers which are waved around like lighters at a boyzone concert. This is all followed by more drinking, some guests are still eating, and your standard Disco type affair, which incorporates a mix of Western and Asian music with the accompanying dance styles. I spared everyone the spectacle of my involvement, and around 9.30 pm took a tuk tuk journey home, via rorys pub and Harrys new venture - an oyster bar.

All in all it was another day to enrich my experience of Khmair culture.. Ive included a cross section of Photos, which hopefully give a better flavour. A little later however, and thanks to my mate Harry, I will be attempting to upload some video footage from the day, which he has captured on his slightly more expensive than mine camera ( to put it mildy). Hes gonna burn it onto disc, and ill pass it along.

Next week is the Cambodian new year, and Im off out to the provinces and countryside to visit Anos family at their home, about a week prior to my departure from Phnom Penh for Sihanuckville. Watch this space if still interested !