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On trek in Nepal
Being called "Didi" by Narendra is I'm sure meant as a term of endearment but "big sister" isn't very flattering. Ratne calls Megan "Big Megan" to distinguish from Meghan, who looks about 19 but is actually 28. I'll try not to be so sensitive!
Back to India
Well I've been here almost a month and haven't really had any downtime to sit and write. So much has happened so I must try to get it all down before it fades too far away.
I'm back in Delhi and it's been a fairly intimidating day. Leaving Nepal was a little more complicated than it needed to be and arriving back in Delhi without a transfer was interesting. When I got to India the first time I managed just fine but for some reason I'm feeling more intimidated today. I made it back to the Suncourt Yatri where I had left some bags, and am now trying to sort out my next steps. I have 2 days till I leave for Amritsar and am thinking about fleeing to the Aerocity area and a Holiday Inn, mostly to be near the airport but also because they have a business centre and an outdoor pool! I have found you must carry paper copies of everything here and the hotels I've been staying in don't have anywhere to print stuff out. I've also decided I must ship some stuff home as I cannot keep dragging around this much crap!
I've been shopping a lot; no repeats of Cambodian regret! Plus I had a lot of gear for the trek, so bottom line is I now have way too much stuff!
Enjoying my first meal in over 24 hours, Paneer Butter Masala and a Kingfisher, on the roof top of my hotel. Fireworks going on in the distance; waiter says it's someone's birthday. Apparently very common to have fireworks.
It was 34 today here; amazing how much a few weeks can change the weather! Making me a bit nervous for the next few months! Still trying to make up my mind about Oneness. Part of me wants to just cut out for Goa and head home early. I'll have to decide by Saturday I think. Although, the Nepalese astrologer said I need to spend more time with God, irrespective of religion, so maybe it's where I should be after all. I think I'll feel better once I sort thru my gear and pare down.
150 miles in last 3 weeks
Today I gave in to the nausea and stayed in bed till noon, did more laundry and then got ready to go find a pharmacy only to discover that due to the election, everything today was closed. So I started to try to organize myself, found my list items and began to tally up my bills. I've made the list and converted the currency but not totaled yet. All good but for one mystery receipt; wouldn't be a big deal but it's for $450 so if like to try to remember if possible. I'm thinking it might be related to the Spice Box stuff but I'm not sure. Now having dinner on the roof again and listening to blaring music from the street below. There's a tented walkway that kind if resembles a red carpet but I don't really know what it is. First meal in 24 hours (again) and then back to re packing so I can move hotels in the morning. How happy am I that boneless chicken seems to be a fairly common option on menus!!!
There have been many times on this trip so far where I have found myself longing for my old "self". I missed the free abandon to dance during Holi, the trust in my body's strength and stamina during the trek and the ability to get through most days without feeling supremely nauseas! The "good" news, I suppose, is that today I finally had evidence of some Delhi Belly, which I hope means it's on it's way out of my body. Trying to drink lots of water with electrolytes so hopefully it'll be over soon.
But, the body I have been left with has already allowed me to do far more than most would have ever thought possible and I did feel immense gratitude many days on trek for the pain as it meant I was doing things I had worried were long behind me.
I seem to be a bit of a novelty to the Indian waiters who seem amazed I can drink their large bottles of beer by myself! Please!! Who do you think you are dealing with?!?! In fairness, I get a similar reaction in many small sushi restaurants with the large format Japanese beer.
I've almost decided to stick with my plan to visit Oneness in May. I've been thinking more about what the astrologer said and feel that it's probably in my best interest and will help my karma. I can't help but think it's going to be a combo of summer camp, volleyball camp and the trek - none of it in a good way! If I can sort it out then I will be able to confirm my time in Goa at the end and my war with logistics will be over.
Sitting waiting for my transfer to new hotel. The security guard/doorman is a tall, rather imposing gentleman, well suited to the role, but is having a conversation with the front desk guy and giggling like a school girl. Rather incongruent!!
Flight to Amritsar got booked wrong by the travel agent so I'm up at 5am again to make my flight. Glad I decided to store luggage as I still had to pay overage fees!! Flight was pretty uneventful, luggage arrived fine and I found my ride quickly. He explained on the drive in that tomorrow is a holy day (Backshti?) for local farmers who will bring their crops to the temple to get blessing and as such it will be crazy!! 500,000 instead of 1500 most likely. Reminds me of Angkor Watt during Songkran. It'll be neat to see the locals etc. there. The drive in from the airport was like most other cities I've seen; traffic, wandering holy cows, road work everywhere and general mayhem. I noticed a block that was all pharmacies, I guess because I've been looking for one for so long! Strangely the next block was all gun stores! Odd and a wee but unnerving!!
Checked in at new hotel, had lunch and went up to the beautiful pool. Stopped in at the spa and booked their signature treatment and a shirodhara. The signature treatment was a fabulous deep tissue massage, and he put pressure on my thoracic spine just right so I got lots of cracks and good relief!! It'll be a long time before I can see Christian Guenette so this was good. Rest of massage equally fantastic, and again reminding me of Cambodia, I got a great boob massage!! Don't knock it till you've tried it!! Once you get over yourself, the deep chest muscles feel amazing after a massage! He also used a steamy herb ball to massage the backs of my legs. Where were you when I was on trek in Nepal!?!? My legs still had deep knots in the calves and hamstrings. Hurt so good! Then my shirodhara; SO relaxing! He gave me special Ayurvedic shampoo afterwards to shower with. A lovely steam shower was the perfect end to a great spa afternoon!! Aromatherapy massage tomorrow!!
Walking around today I saw several images of (I'm guessing) the Guru and it's making me remember a recurring nightmare I had as a kid. It was Hallowe'en and I was Trick or Treating and saw the picture of the Guru thru the window of an Indian home. In the dream the woman who lived there was Thumbelina sized and I was to take her and keep her safe. I kept dropping her and losing her and a bunch of other stuff I can't remember but SO WEIRD that literally 30 years later one glimpse of the picture threw me back to that nightmare I had over and over for a number of years.
The Golden Temple was a unique experience. Head scarf mandatory but no shoes or socks!?! I referred to it as the Throngs of Humanity in my FB post. Understatement!!! There were over half a million people and it wasn't even 8am yet, by noon about a million. Saw some beautiful saris and turbans and learned a little more about turban styles. (I ask a LOT of questions!)
I learned the story of Sikhism's Golden Temple pool and why it is believed to have holy healing powers. Apparently, the Punjabi man in charge of the area had 7 daughters. The first 6 were good and obedient; when their Father asked them who is your God? They replied, "you provide us with everything we need Father, YOU are our God. But the 7th daughter said, God is up there and has provided us this earth. You are merely passing along what God has already given" or something to that effect. He was furious and in an act of revenge, engaged his willful daughter to a leper. The daughter dutifully went along with the marriage and when they went to where the Golden Temple is today, she encouraged her husband to bathe in the water. Miraculously his leprosy was cured!! I'm sure I butchered that story but that's what is sticking in my mind now after a long day.
Wagah border - high stepping soldiers, high kick touched front of turban. Shakes fist and fixes turban - great posturing puffed up. Then they shake hands and it's all done till tomorrow. Guards good at making people sit down.
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