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Christmas au Senegal was an interesting one. In fact it wasn't in Senegal at all. Once the school term finished we headed to Thies with the famalam for a big wedding. It was pretty damn exciting, involving plenty of costume changes, cooking, eating, chit-chatting and ataya brewing. We enjoyed a day whiled away at the house with lots of coming and goings, then headed downtown for the reception. The best of efforts had been made with decor and refreshments, with an abundance of flashing lights and fizzy pop - a whale of a time was had by all.
Soon after Katie and I nipped off, destination The Gambia. We managed to cover most forms of land transport by the time we reached the border, and after running into some rather chatty security guards, made it through to Cape Point where we met up with the other volunteers and enjoyed a week or so on the beach, enjoying learning Gambian Wolof (Yangi fine?) and the local ceep u jen den (where we ate lunch daily), and hanging out. We made a couple of trips into Serekunda, and Katie and I went as far as to buy a load of fish and potatoes from the market to cook our favourite Senegalese dish. Tribute must be paid here to champion fish-gutters Katie and Lena.
After a week the motherland was ardently calling us back; we made our way down to Ziguinchor in Senegal's beautiful southern Casamance region. We got a bit of an insight into the project there and enjoyed an awesome lunch of the river before re-grouping the Katie and Amee team and heading towards the coast for the Abene Festivalo - a percussion festival in a very small coastal village near Kafountine. Abene itself was interesting - small but with a large quota of Gambians and Rastafarianss, most of whom would not turn their nose up at the occasional illegal substance...We stayed at a great campement (Senegal's answer to resposible tourist options) owned and run by a quadrilingual guy called Cherif. The song 'I shot the Sheriff' seemed to be the running theme-tune for the place, and we had a great stay. We spent the days walking (slowly) around, enjoying the beach and occasionally zipping around on the back of a motorbike (jakarta in local lingo) - best way to get around on the sandy roads - and the evenings at the festival, enjoying the spectacle (and occasionally participating) of Diola and Mandinka dancing, singing, and drumming, standing amongst locals and tourists alike. At New Years' Eve we watched the show and then made our way to the beach with the rest of Abene's resident and visiting population for a huge bonfire, fireworks display, and to crowd around the drumming circles with the CRAZIEST dancing I'd ever seen!! Hence 2013 was seen in with style, with coca-cola, and for Katie, a chicken yassa sandwich.
Soon after, our jaunt around the country was over, and we made the 14hr overland journey back to Joal, covering about 400km and two border crossings on and in a variety of motorbikes, sept-places, buses, boat, and taxi. Bit of a marathon but so cool to see so much on the way. Once back in Joal we were straight into lessons on the 2nd Jan. Enthusiasm was somewhat lacking but we soon got them up and running again. Classes went swimmingly, with my beginners covering the present simple tense (breakthrough!!) and everything else progressing nicely. I've got involved with a local French journal written by high school students, and English clubs are now up and running at all 3 schools. We also enjoyed an all-night party at the church, during which I might've just dropped a few awful dance moves and eaten an even more awful amount of fataya. With the prospect of working non-stop until Easter, Katie and I were somewhat daunted, however it soon became obvious to us that this was never Senegal's intention, so fatigue nicely avoided there. The Islamic festival Gamou (celebrating the birthday of the Prophet Mohammed) came conveniently round on the 23rd January, bringing with it a few days off and a visit once again to Thies. The festival followed the general Senegalese format that seems to be a winner here (eating, drinking, and the occasioanal boogy) but with Gamou we got the bonus of an all-nighter at the mosque (headscarves included). In fact, our night was pent just outside the mosque, along with the rest of the women. We enjoyed a 5hr recital of the Qu'ran, interspersed with some relatively upbeat singing and something which seems to resemble Islamic dancing. You sort of step from side to side and wave your arms, clicking your fingers. I thought I might finally have found a dance I could do, but that unfortunately failed miserably once I remembered I can't really click. Due to a huge number of family members literally dropping and sleeping throughout the house I spent the night on a prayer mat on the floor but nevertheless slept soundly until we returned to Joal in the morning.
We've since been back in Joal trying to get back into the rhythm, however the latest teacher strike is threatening to unseat us and our nicely prepared pupils before their exam in February. Both Katie and I have been teaching nonetheless, but we inevitably lose lessons which don't start at 8am as the kids just go home, and it's somewhat frustrating. However, we are up for a challenge of COURSE, and that is what we're getting! I've also started teaching my lower sixth class at the lycee, which is a challenge from the word go - standing up in front of SIXTY-FOUR students, most of whom are older and taller than me. However we've had a somewhat raucous time learning English colloquialisms (see you later, alligator) and competing in verb conjugations with Noughts and Crosses: Miss Amee's grammar edition.
We've been at the church a ton recently, preparing along with everyone else for the patronal festival this weekend - a two day affair involving plenty of eating, dancing and traditional singing of Serer songs, harmonised by yours truly for the choir.
I hope Christmas and New Year were seen in with a party wherever you are, thank you so much for the support of my blog, it's so awesome reading the messages!!
Amee x
- comments



Jennie Carr Amee, it sounds so wonderful! Hope you have millions of photos. The teaching sounds great, even with the interruptions. If you crack the present perfect & simple past, I'll be beyond impressed. Look forward to seeing the dance moves......Jennie xx
James Larkin Brilliant Amee, such a good read. Keep the stories coming!
Karen yet again a wow! I do dot know how you cram sooo much into a week and still keep standing!!! Enjoy every minute. You will live off these momories for a life time! Love as always, Karenx
Fr Michael Great to catch up with your adventures Amee - beautifully written. It all makes what we did for Christmas and the New Year feel really tame. Hope you have a great Patronal Festival and remember, you should always dance as if no one is watching. Love and prayers, Fr Michael
Tina Foote Yet more insight into a world I can only imagine after the snow and rain we have had recently. What an exciting time you are having - and how good are you to try all the different foods?! I am sure I would try them - but I am equally sure they would not like me based on previous experiences! And I agree with Father Michael about the dancing...Just think The Nolans got away with it...I hope that you are going to do some form of talk/lecture to us poor untravelled folks so that we can see al the pics and live vicariously through your experiences. I know that Kit and your mum are longing to see you, so we will get news first hand soon. The Feete all send much love. Sophie is 'loving' GCSEs...(not a lot really) and Amy is turning into a little hipster with bright blue Doc Martens and matching skateboard. Sophie continues to follow her dreams and auditioned this week for NYMT and next week for YMT. It all seems very bland compared to your experiences! I dream of slopes of snow at the moment -but was transported briefly to sandy shores thanks to your great blog! Keep well and safe!
Nigel Sounds great - and entertaing to read. Very well written.
Amanda Bungey Hi Amee I have been reading your fantastic blog. It sounds as if you are loving every minute of your amazing experience and working really hard to benefit your students. I do admire you for teaching 64 lower sixth formers. I've been teaching adults for 10 years and I would have been terrified! I'm off to meet your mom tonight. We'll be swopping christmas presents as I was ill at Christmas and couldn't get to see her! Wishing you lots of love and hope you continue to have a happy time. Hope its not too much of a culture shock for you when you finally get home! Love Mandy
Dad Fantubuloso as ever dad xxx
alexandre Bonjour Un blog pour récupérer le terrain et la maison que nous avions construit et que la mairie nous a volé.Le terrain avait été acheté a la Mairie de Joal au Maire Paul Ndong et Taffa Diouf son bras droit.Nous souhaitons qu un membre de la Mairie nous contacte.Merci lundi 1 juillet 2013 Joal Fadiouth Sénègal .L Arnaque de la mairie et du maire Paul Ndong! Bonjour Nous sommes le 1 er Juillet 2013 et nous continuons nos procédures pour récupérer notre maison et notre terrain à Joal Fadiouth Sénègal: Consultez notre 1 er blog ICI: Tous les documents officiels sont ci dessous: http://joalfadiouthsenegalarnaque.blogspot.fr/ http://joalfadiouthsenegal.blogspot.fr/ Nous souhaitons un arrangement à l amiable avec la Mairie de Joal Fadiouth. Pour tout contact voici un email : [email protected] Merci A vous tous pour vos informations.