Costa Rica immediately impressed us with its paved, often marked roads. Its traffic lights. The occasional stainless steel bus stop. Even the trees looked nicer than in previous countries. We downed tools in Tamarindo, a beach town on the Pacific catering towards US tourists. Prices doubled here over neighbouring countries and, as a result, backpackers were few and far between. Three nights passed quickly as we enjoyed the spoils of a pool and gorgeous beach. Shuttles buses whisked holiday makers to and from the capital, San Jose, some 5 hours away. At $29 a pop, we told ourselves we should be at one with the locals and took more modest local transport. By the time we had reached San Jose (8 hours later, though only three quid lighter), we were aware that the improvement in surrounding was just an illusion. Money has been spent where the tourists are. The remainder of the country is in tatters, much like everywhere else in the region. We have developed a policy of avoiding capital cities at all costs. This is partly due to the apparent dangers, but also just the sheer brutality of the surroundings.
Between terminals our taxi driver assured us we'd missed our connecting bus and recommended another station along way out of town. Of course he was lying. We knew that because his lips were moving. We insisted on being dropped at the station with no buses and waited just 10 minutes for our connection to the Caribbean coast. The topography is similar to the rest of Central America in that the ridge of mountains running through the centre of the country separates two flatter coastal areas. After passing San Jose we enjoyed temporary relief from the piping hot plains as we elevated though the highlands and cooling drizzle. Short lived relief as we soon arrived in banana country.
Our remaining few days were spent in Puerto Viejo. Frequented by American ladies looking for (and usually finding) some rasta love. One chap sat in a tree for the entire duration and always asked us if we required some of god's most natural herb.
Soon it was time to break for the border once more. Panama our last stop in the region. PaS