Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
The night before the inka trail, nerves started to kick in. We stockpiled food (haribo essential), we discussed packing lists multiple times (of course we need 3 pairs of trousers for 4 days...) and started buying things we didn't need (hiking poles were not used once).
We needn't of worried as day 1 eased us in. Our tour started with the Sacred Valley on a beautiful sunny day. I don't think you could call day 1 hiking as it was more walking around key sights including the Inca citadel of Pisac.
We also visited the Inkan village of Ollantaytambo, here we given an 'authentic' /here come tourists with cash viewing of a house dated back to the 16th century. The highlight of which was seeing dozens of guinea pigs running around, sadly soon to be cuy on a plate. A plate that we would all end up trying at the end of our trail.
By the evening, we arrived to camp all set up by the incredible porters from Aventours. Each day they would race ahead, as if 20kg was nothing on their back and have tents pitched up and food ready. They lured us in to a false sense of security to think we can actually camp. Unfortunately, I don't think normal campers are given hot water to clean with morning and night, provided a wake up call with a cup of tea and given much needed afternoon snacks.
Dinner that night was a chance to meet our fellow hikers, a great group who we'd get to know over the next few days. The brits at 4 (including our friends Adam and Sarah) were heavily outweighed by the Yanks. This included Shelley and Katie, both medics, which is always handy when someone may keel over. Mark and Julia from Arizona on a honeymoon, who decided to challenge themselves by not using a porter. Impressed to say the least. There were the shining stars of the group, David and Geneva who at 67 had prior experience of Mont Blanc and Killimajaro. That's how you show people how it's done. Lastly, there were 3 French Canadians who were serious hikers and kept to themselves (women on a mission).
We all chated over a welcome bottle of red. The last drop of alcohol to savour for the next few days. The night finished with star gazing as we used Shelleys mobile app to work out the constellations. Modern society eh. Whilst watching, Sarah and I managed to catch a shooting star in the bright sky.
Wake up call most days was around 6.30am. Early start but it was not hard to get up with the views on offer. As we zipped open our tent, we were welcomed by the snow capped mountain, Mount Veronica on our first day of the Inka trail. That day was described as easy, let's say it wasn't hard but moderate would be a better word. Our journey involved seeing the ancient ruins of Llactapata (agriculture terraces). We also had a few seasons in one day as the sun shone and the rain fell. A lot of exercise involved changing in to the various layers.
We arrived at camp to see the porters wrestling, not part of the programme but entertaining netherless.That night hands down was one of the best meals we had in Peru. Freshly fished trout that was flash fried coated in flour, simple but delicious. With our bellies full, we were all more than ready for our sleeping bags.
The third day was the one we'd been waiting for. By waiting I mean dreading. With the day before easy and today difficult we were unsure what to expect. Rodger our guide had briefed 3-4 hours hiking up steps reaching 4200 meters. This would be followed by 2 hours of steps downhill. We set off as as a four with Adam and Sarah to start and finish together. We kind of had our own peleton, one of us taking on the hike, pushing forward and then swapping over. We set a good pace and motored on, we did a few take overs from other hikers which is always satisfying. We kept the laughter flowing to ease the pain. We went through the jungle hot and sweaty and arrived to mountains with clouds swirling past. We then had in sight dead woman's pass, the peak point to reach.
This is when the conversation stopped. Concentration was now on breathing, walking and stopping at key points. Only brief words were exchanged with other hikers to motivate or mostly console each other. Eventually we reached the top, the first ones of the group to get there. I think we were mostly pleased we'd beat the keen Canadians. We'll forget they carried their big backpacks whilst we had day packs... At dead woman's pass, we lept around, took photos, ate more snacks and then it was time to descend.
The 4th day was our final hike, the longest day at 16 km. On the original Inkan path, we were ready for our spiritual journey to 'find ourselves'. Adding to the ambience was Roberto (the assistant guide) playing the andean flute as we walked. The day involved a long descent down rocky steps. It was interesting to say the least to watch Sarah walk down, almost crab like as she held on to the ground. Sarah hadn't gone crazy though, it was incredibly steep and slippery. To add to this, there were often sheer cliff drops next to the path. We saw a girl in tears who'd twisted her ankle and we didn't want to be part of that gang.
Towards the end of the day we reached Phuyupatamarca, the town above the clouds. I'll add that I've googled this, at the time we didn't have a clue what it was. Our guide was light or non existent on details, which meant we've all had a bit of post trek reading to do.
Our final night camping was bitter sweet. Sad to finish an incredible few days but also glad as we needed a shower. The baby wipes and a little hot water could only last so long.
Waking up at 4 am, we were not quite ready to take on the day. We sleepily got to the entrance to enter Machu Pichu. Arriving at the sun gate, Inti Puku, there were clouds covering the sight (it's no wonder the Spanish did not find it). We waited for them to part but no luck. We then arrived at Machu Pichu and Pacha Mama helped us out this time with sunshine. There we could see magnificent Machu Pichu in it's all glory. We took a moment of appreciation to take in where we were but also the journey to get there.
Machu pichu by midday was overrun by tourists. It started to feel like Disney land and it was time to get out of there. We finished the way any hikers should with a a well needed beverage in the nearby town Aguas Caliente. David and Geneva said their goodbyes first, they were off to climb Wayna Pichu mountain the next day. Just another massive mountain next to Machu Pichu.
To summarise the inka trail in words is a hard task but this is perhaps a glimpse. Undoubtedly we would say it was a highlight of our trip, if not in life to have been there.
- comments