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Lake Atitlan was described by Aldous Huxley as “...really too much of a good thing” and that is definitely it. Taking the windy roads from Antigua, you begin to glimpse the mountains and three volcanoes surrounding the bright crystal lake. Lake atitlan evolved from a super volcano explosion 85,000 years ago, with the eruption leaving a large caldera that later filled with water and became the incredible sight we see today. The Mayan word, “atitlan” actually translates to, 'the place where the rainbow gets its colours' . Now there are over 10,000 inhabitants situated in different villages around Lake Atitlan. Each village with its different vibe and attracting a particular clientele.
We started with San Marcos. A hippy vibe, yoga, people in tie dye/crazy coloured trousers (guaranteed to get stares elsewhere but not here) and herbal recipes. A tranquil place that was a great first stop for us to unwind. The 45 minute boat journey from Panajchel to San Marcos was less so relaxing. We sat there panicked as our bags were thrown on top of the boat without being secured. As we bobbed along the waves, we had visions of our life's possessions falling in to the water, never to be seen again.
All possessions in tact, we went with a Lonely Planet recommendation for accommodation Accualux, an ecological minded boutique hotel. A beautiful spot where the rooms were individually designed, with one-of-a-kind art works and locally made furniture. Even better was the terrace for breakfast where we were served fresh juices, bread, eggs and cereals. All very healthy but delicious.
To take in San Marcos in all its glory we hiked a short walk to the viewpoint in Cerro Tzankujil. Here we saw the view of the glistening lake captured in the sun. We made our way down to edge of the park to sunbathe and cool off by jumping in the refreshing lake. Rory also decided to have a go on the 'trampoline', a platform to jump in at about 15 meters.By the evening after one healthy day, Rory and I managed to find a curry for dinner at Fe. At first glances we thought it'd be pretty dreadful but as soon as we met the English owner we knew we'd be on to a treat. And delightful it was, nan bread and all. When in Central America....
Our next stop of Lake Atitlan was San Pedro. Not as picturesque as San Marcos but less expensive which means one thing, lots of backpackers. It also has a great selection of restaurants and bars on offer. Whilst there, we had Thai food (Buddha Bar), steaks at an Irish joint and our favourite a Southern BBQ run by Nester and Luann (Smokin Joes'). The island attracts expats from around the world giving it an eclectic feel with something going on every night.
For our final stop before leaving Latin America, we wanted some R&R before the road trip. We chose to use Air Bnb and stayed at Luna Azul. This was owned by Serena (a hippy from Alaska) and ran by Erin (a lovely but zany Canadian). Relaxing, tasty breakfasts and a beautiful garden with hummingbirds. Erin also had the best recommendations for us to see the local area. I had a very authentic experience whilst there when bitten by a Scorpian. A little unexpected when folding up your jeans. I'd like to pretend Rory acted manly here and saved me but he also ran out the room, thinking the Scorpian was twice the size it actually was.
We wanted to embrace the beauty of the outdoors in Guatemala. This included waking up at 3.30 am to hike up a nearby mountain, the Indians nose for sunrise. We were in good hands with our expat guide Matt from Leeds, who had a PHD in Geology. Like many who lived in San Marcos, he'd packed up his life to live a better one in the sun (tempting!). He also brought two local guides to not take business away from the Guatemalans. This gave a balance of geography combined with local agriculture. Watching the sun rise was unbelievably beautiful that morning and it's a memory, which always stay with Rory and I. Each of the volcanoes gradually lit to leave you marvelling at the result of the super volcano. On our descent down the local guides explained the coffee plantations, which is a big exportation business in Guatemala.
Despite our last failed attempts in Nicaragua, we went kayaking again. In the glorious weather, the water was very still so to capsize would take some effort! We were more in rhythm this time, no arguments and we paddled to a nearby beach. We hopped off for photos and watched locals passing. One man with a massive machete, just a normal day in Guatemala. Apparently, there is rule never to go in to the mountains without one.
We did our last bit of souvenir shopping at the village of Santiago. Rory showed off his bartering skills, I think his are better than mine! One women was not budging for a picture though which led Rory to pretend to leave the shop about 4 times. All good fun.
That brought our time to Latin America to a close. Sad, so sad. We made our final journey to Antigua before flying the next day to Chicago.
No one can describe how incredible the last 7 months have been. Memories to hold on for a lifetime. Mind blowing sights, wonderful people and every day was an adventure! Every single day! How lucky we are to have experienced a trip of a lifetime.
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