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Puerto Varas was not part of the original plan, it was marked as a layover to get to Bariloche. However, after a little more lonely planet reading we realised that it was a picturesque part of Chile, described as the 'lake district' with plenty of outdoor activities on offer. Many centre around the Volcano Osorno. Either hiking up the volcano , cycling down it or taking in the views kayaking on the lake, again cycling or going a bit wild and doing some canyoning.
The town was 20 minutes bus journey from where we landed (Puerto Montt ). We arrived at the hostel Margouya Patagonia at the same time as a group of active clad cyclers got back from their day. Puffing and panting it looked like a long day. Speaking to two Dutch girls (the land of bikes, sorry Boris) they looked slightly broken after what they described as 7 hours in the rain, tough uphill climbs resulting in walking and most disappointingly no views of the mountains. Quite an off-putting story...
However, as with all travel opinions it varies from one person to the next. Most of all it is dependent on weather and we woke up the next day to a gloriously sunny and breezy day. We were ready to take on the day or at least half of it. We decided after travelling from a to b to c over the last week (not of course lack of fitness) we would cycle half of the recommended route. This was also cheaper (money savers!) at only £4.50 for a half day.
The lady who ran the hostel began by telling us not to be offput by the first part of the journey. Glad she said so as the first half an hour was a gravel track (literally next to a train track) where we were bumping up and down. Time to hang on tight and attempt to use the double set of gears. The mountain bikes were good taking in most of the impact but Rory still complained of a sore bum and I had heat rash (not so breezy anymore).
As a result there were a few moments I got off my bike saying no more but Rory persisted for us to plug on. The first hour of the journey should have taken half an hour. Once we hit the tarmac life was all good. We forgot our problems, stopped for a lovely lunch by the lake with the mountain background and leisurely cycled back.
Arriving home, feeling sore we realised we were both sun burnt. This is a lesson in stupidity, it may not be hot but the UV here is strong (I've been told a vague fact there is a hole in the ozone layer ..) Although we are extremely tanned suncream is a must.
The evening was spent as every night should in Chile drinking a bottle of wine. We met some other people from the hostel and decided to take a walk up a viewpoint to watch sunset while doing so (photo attached).
We finished the night chatting to fellow travellers, most who had come from Patagonia. My jaw dropped when we met a couple who had treked the W (4 nights trekking /camping) in Torres del Paine. Simple enough but the girlfriend was 5 months pregnant and was going to backpack till the latest point she could. I heard her give advice to travellers of her trek, 'if my baby can do it, you can'. Point taken. Proof you can always travel somehow!
And that was it for Puerto Varas, we were on to our next stop of Bariloche the next day!
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