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Dear All
Welcome from Ushuaia, in Tierra Del Fuego, officially the End of the World. There's no other civilian place further south than where I am now Since I was a kid (yes I know it's not that long ago) this place has been another magical one. And now I'm here. Yeee and haaaa. It is a stunningly beautiful place. Not unlike the wilds of Scotland actually, but with more glaciars and fabled names like the Magellan Straights and the Beagle Channel. These are but metres away from this internet cafe. But more of this later.
I left El Clafate yesterday. Another long bus journey- well 2 buses actually, the first at 04.00 (As Robin Williams says- "what does the O stand for? It stands for Oh My God!!!) and a total of some 16 hours to get here. El Calafate was the first place in Argentina I can say I liked the look of. It was clearly wealthy when you looked at the people and there were fewer old crock cars (boohoo), the buidlings and pavements were in good condition and as always it was clean. The people seemed a bit tourist weary and didn't really seem to like me trying my Spanish- maybe it's harder work for them but I persisted. It was an expensive place- something to do with a captive audience I guess. However I went there for the glaciars. The first day was at the Perito Moreno Glaciar. In a kilt. All day. At times to the open laughter of locals who clearly didn't know the significance. It's the only advancing (currently static) glaciar in the world. And it's famous as you stand quite close and watch huge chunks of ice fall off and then float off in the water. It was impressive, the main face being 2.5km long and some 60- 80m high. However it was for me not the ice falls but colours that were stunning. I am glad I took the boat journey which went to 300m in front. However I think I preferred the Iguazu Falls. Then the next day I did a day long boat trip to see other glaciars- the tallest (up to 125m) and the widest (5- 7km wide). These were in their own way impressive but again it was the azul blue colour oif the ice that was brilliant (literally and metaphorically). Stunning. Hopefully the pictures will show these off to good effect. Needless to say here I am with a good internet connection and no way to pass these on- in El Clafate there was the world's worst internet connection but memory card readers to allow me to download pictures. A waste of time when it took 3+ minutes to open a simple web page In combination the 2 trips made El Calafate as good as Iguazu. No better for me, as I loved the evident power and noise and fluidity of the waterfalls. On the second day I even managed to face my fears of meeting people. A woman sat by me on the bus to the boats. I'd seen her + her partner a few times on buses since Rio Gallegos & after seeing her text in french spoke to her. It was lovely, albeit oddly as she too was a widow. Why oddly? Because a lot of people I've met have been. I'm sure it's meant to be, to show me you can live and maybe even a pointer as to how to...
Of late I've had a few moments of feeling pretty low and down, lonely and a bit depressed feeling the sense of isolation and the fact I am here because Pauline is no longer with me. These have been the times I've been alone. They are no fun, but they are also what I expected and in effect what I want and need to get over this part of my life. It is good, if not easy. I am stronger as I go on, getting through the emotions and also learning to cope where there's nothing and no-one that can help me. Nowhere to run away to. It is lovely to get blog entries and emails from you guys as this also makes me feel remembered and valued. I am also glad of those that tell me of your issues that are real for you as I don't seek protection from other people's lives when I am away doing what I need to do. This is a big part of me and I am grateful for it.
Actually, there are other things that have gone on. I figured out I was actually travelling some 76.5 hours to go from Iguazu to El Calafate. Either in buses or in bus stations or in Bue for 10 hours allowing me to do my last blog. I was in the same clothes for longer of course.... Thank goodness for specialist clothing. Unfortunately the 2 shirts I bought with the rest of the clothes no longer really fit as I've put on way too many pounds in the 3 years since so will have to abandon these and buy another T shirt. Life in Argentina has proven much more expensive than planned or thought so far so I'll wait awhile before spending cash and get out of Ushuaia as this is the most expensive place yet... Tomorrow I go to the local national park to walk (if possible in ra kilt) and in theory get over to Chile the day after. I've actually already been in Chile as this bit of Tierra Del Fuego is surrounded by Chile and I had to go to the customs 4 times in and out of the 2 countries so I now have 4 new passport stamps. Makes Europe seem so friendly. Oddly Argentina is sort of free and then not. The people are generally relaxed and friendly but there are local police stops along main roads and in/ out of towns or even counties. Sometimes you have to show your passport (where they pretend to understand them) and even have dogs sniffing for drugs. The buses themselves are either okay or good- the long distance ones good. However it was interesting on the first part of road into Tierra del Fuego. I've always wanted to do off road driving on dirt tracks. I never actually thought I would do it in a coach.... Messers Tar and Macadam had obviously taken the day off!! Interesting Getting on an very old fashioned roll on roll off ferry was interesting as it sounded like we were leaving half the tail behind as we scraped the floor for 5 or so metres... I'm currently in a nice guest house that works well for me (and there's a viw of the mini glaciar in the mountain behind the town). The only 2 luxuries I decided on in this trip were a single room (I have a double bed here) and the ferry in southern Chile- that comes on the 28th.... So this is what I worked for. I've decided not to take a local boat trip as it's lragely for bird life and this doesn't interest me greatly. Today in overcast anyway so you'd see too little of the mountains and views that I prefer. Also had a bit of Scotch Mist and drizzle. Hey home from home tho' I hear you guys also have something called wind and snow in places... Goi on remind me of these... then again maybe not, wouldn't do to tempt fate thanks. I also decided to avoid the tourist train into the park... I have however managed to find local beers and very good they are too. One a Scotch Ale
So, when I next write it'll be from Chile. I guess in a few days before I get on the ferry for 3 days of fjording, penguins, glaciars (again), sea lions, seals, maybe dolphin and hopefully whales (tho' I think I'm a few weeks too late for them). Whee.
Take care guys, love
Alan xx
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