Hello All.

So far it seems that Alan has written these blogs with intent to make me a laughing stock! Well, enough of that. This entry will obviously be a far more balanced account of our time in Agra and Varanasi!

So, last we wrote we were leaving Jaipur and heading to Agra. Once again the Indian rail network got the job done, although rather disapointingly there was no breakfast this time (though the Chaiwala kept Alan entertained for most of the trip). We were both a little concerned that we wouldn't really enjoy our time in the city of the Taj Mahal after hearing tales of constant hassle and pestering from hawkers, so perhaps arrived with a clouded view of the place.

Our hotel seemed to be in the middle of nowhere, but a short walk away there was a great market area where you could buy everything and the kitchen sink. Alan finally bought a watch so he can stop pestering me for the time! It really felt like we were the only westerners in town in this area and it was a really pleasant surprise. Bar the odd rickshaw driver asking us where we were going we really didn't get bothered at all.

Our four days in Agra passed really quickly. We went to see the Fort which was incredibly beautiful (a million times more impressive than the forts we saw in Jaipur and it had views over the river to the Taj Mahal). Obviously the main draw to the city is the Taj and we decided that we couldn't face an early morning visit for sunrise and that sunset would be equally as good. Unfortunately it seemed that half of India had the same idea. The tomb itself is incredibly impressive with beautiful carvings and inlay work, but the shear number of people made it really difficult to fully appreciate the gardens. Still, despite the pushing and shoving and the hassle on entry we enjoyed the day.

Next on the agenda was the trip to Varanasi, it was also the first experience of an overnight sleeper train - getting the tickets for which had been more difficult than we'd hoped. The journey was surprisingly comfortable and we chatted to a couple of people who shared our "cabin" about cricket and suchlike.

Varanasi is a maze of a place with narrow lanes crisscrossing from the Ganges to the main roads. Added to this you have to dodge cows (and their crap), motorbikes, men on bikes and people trying to sell you stuff. It's not really somewhere to sight see, more somewhere to experience and so we have done; spending time wandering the lanes, watching hindu rituals at the river, taking a boatride to see the city from the river etc etc. If you can get over the inevitable grime that paves an indian city, Vananasi is really quite a romantic place - atmospheric at least!

Well. We're bidding farewell to India today and starting the 27hour (minimum) epic trip to Nepal to do some trekking and meet up with friends.

Until then,

K and A