The Taj Mahal was fantastic, most awe inspiring and as I was one of the first through the doors o nice peaceful experience watching the bright crisp amber sun rise in the sky. The photos just don't do it justice. On my way in I had a guy telling me the best angles etc for photos which led to distraction and in answer to the burning question, I didn't go on Princess Diana bench as he distracted me and on my way out the crowds were so great I couldn't even get close!!

I had a wonder to the Fort and munching on a cucumber and as I started to approach the Fort entrance I noticed the monkeys and then I noticed them look and start heading to me … quick sharp exit as they headed over for my food and thankfully a couple of guys at the entrance shoed them away.

The Fort was another big Fort, you could picture an army gathered and training there in the layout of the court yards and parts of it is still used by the military today.

In the late morning, I set about changing hotels to another one recommended by the Lonely Planet, and got a room and roof terrace restaurant with great views of the Taj.

Unsuccessful booking the train for Varanasi at the station or through the waitlist, a nice, very helpful young man suggested an alternative route via Gwalior, if I could get there I could get an overnight from there to Varanasi. After lots of checking and um'ing and r'ing trying to see how I would get to Gwalior for 20:50 train departure and being unsuccessful booking the train to Gwalior I decided to get a unreserved day ticket at the station and get on train, so The Goa Express leaving Agra at 17:50 it was. The people in hotel said that I should look for the guard on the platform and see if I can get on in AC section, perhaps pass him some money R 50-100.

A scene from a comedy sketch I am sure … On arrival at the Agra Chatt rail station, carrying my backpack on my back and wheeling suitcase, I headed to the reservation office to get a ticket for a train due to leave 50 minutes later. All the queues were long and I decided to join the ladies queue. After a brief exchange with the lady in front of me (brief due to her not speaking any English and me any Hindi) and then the fun started. The women at the front of the queue were arguing and shouting with more women joining in as they attempted to jump the queue, pushing to the front. I was getting anxious I would never get my ticket in time for the train and then the lady in front of me went and gave them all what for telling them to get in line, I can only assume, with myself and a few other women also commenting! As soon as we'd get one woman to stop and go to the back another would push on by, using items to my disposal I created a barrier with my wheelie case to prevent anyone coming past which I maintained till I got to the front … funny to see the Indian ladies pointing at my bag in gesture to say I would push by but her case is stopping me.

Overnight 2AC (2nd class air condition), a nice little sleep compartment and half empty carriage so I soon got settled in my bunk with bags securely wedged, laid out sheets, pillow and blanket and snuggled for sleep. Whilst it was disturbed sleep I think it was better than the last night I was in Agra where there was noise of call to prayer and goodness knows what else all night!