Cuba part 2 - Cigars, Countryside and Colonial towns.After Havana we headed out west to the capital town of the region, Pinar Del Rio. Arriving in the morning we dump our bags and look around. After finding out there is absolutely nothing to do we start wondering how to waste the afternoon until moving on the next day. Luckily we meet 2 Norwegian girls who had a lonely planet and after a quick look confirmed that there was nothing to do. So after a siesta we went looking for some salsa or cabaret for entertainment. We found a large group of people waiting outside the 'casa de la musica' so we joined them. When they opend the doors everyone rushed in to grab chairs and tables in a courtyard infront of a stage so we followed suit. Music was being played by a Dj and so we waited for a performance. After waiting about 45 minutes we asked some guys what was going on and it turned out everyone just goes there to sit and listen to music! We wanted to dance so the search continued. Aidan went back early because his salsa isn't up to much and didn't fancy dancing. So me and the girls went off and found a cool bar with a 'caberet'. This consisted of a pavaorotti man singing love song at the top of his voice and a pop idol wannabe girl singing power ballards such as 'tina turners - whats love got to do with it' incredibly badly. Both pure comedy. Included with the entrance were free drinks and the 3 of us were able to get a bottle of rum and a few cokes. If you go to cuba you have to love Havana Club rum and now I do. One of the Norwegian girls seemed to drink more than us other 2 and became a little tipsy. After being sick outside the club and deciding she couldn't walk we managed to find some really nice locals to give us a free ride home. Classic.After Pinar we caught a taxi up the road to Vinales. This is the principle tobacco growing region and with mountains in the distance was beautiful countryside. Finding 2 nice little casas next to each other (we're still with the Norwegians who are feeling slightly worse for wear) we went to the Rio Resvalosa for a quick swim. By a little cascade there was a large pool where all the locals go to swim when its hot. That evening was more salsa but on a much quieter scale.The next day we hired some bikes determined to ride off into the countryside and meet some local farmers, however not knowing the way we tried to do a big loop from Vinales. There are no way near enough roads to do this so after riding up a huge mountain and then down the other side we reached the last village on the road. We had to turn around and go back up the mountain and back the way we came! Fitness first I always say. On the way back Danni saved a goat from certain death after it had got tangled in some bushes and we got caught in a thunderstorm. Another day we got a guided tour of the valley on horseback. After a short while we stopped and got off to take some pictures at which point Danni's horse emptied its entire bladder all over my leg! This time we got to meet a cool little farmer who made us a mohito in a coconut and hand rolled us some cigars. We also saw how all the tobacco is dried and learnt about the whole process. Aidan had his first canter and Danni swam in a cave. After a nice little break in the country we headed to Trinidad. An hour into the already extended bus journey because a bridge had fallen down and we had to do a 3 hour detour, one of the bus' back brakes disintegrated. Obviously this is a regular occurrence because on every bus travels an onboard mechanic! After getting some of the passengers to help he managed to get the wheel off and remove the back drum brake. He then proceeded to put the wheel back on and we continued. Later in the journey we passed a man cantering along in the slow lane of the motorway on a donkey and then when it rained anyone who was sleeping on the bus was woken up by water leaking through the roof. This was on a first class bus. Journey ended up taking 11 hours instead of the scheduled 5.Trinidad was amazing. We stayed in a nice enough little casa owned by a nice little old lady but after showering Danni came out to a massive cockroach waiting for her on the bed head. Not a happy girl. Luckily I was on hand to flush it down the loo. Fortunately that was the last of them. Trinidad is a beautiful old colonial town with cobbled streets where there are more horses and donkeys in the streets than cars. All the buildings are painted different colours and you could always hear music playing wherever you walked. It was also only a short bus ride to a beautiful beach. The weather was not so beautiful and most days at about 3 o'clock it rained. In cuba when it rains it rains and watching everyone running for cover is very amusing but as its not cold its fine and part of the beach experience. The nightlife centred round the casa de la musica. Every night there was a different band playing. Whether it was the black slave drumming or Cuban salsa it was amazing. One night after the music had finished a Cuban rude boy wearing mc hammer camo trousers, a white wifebeater and a white cap came to the stage a sang Cuban equivalents of Whitneys 'I will always love you' acappella. Surreal but brilliant. We had some awesome nights and met some great people. For those who know what it is we took BRRR face international and got some Australians involved - the pics will be posted on facebook soon. After the casa de la musica shuts everyone heads to various clubs one of which is in a massive cave. The dj booth was up high in the roof and it just looked wicked. After Trinidad we spent a night in Cienfuegos on the way back to Havana. On our last night in Havana we went out in style going to a proper Cuban jazz club. We got to see a 4 piece jazz band that were pretty damn good with guest vocalists and trumpet players coming on during the set. We just sat in awe and listened for 3 hours trying to make 1 mohito last the night because we had to save the last of our money to get to the airport. Danni's final thought:I thought cuba was absolutely amazing although I obviously didn't appreciate being robbed!Apart from that it was great and we met some really cool people and had some wicked experiences.However, I also think that cuba is possibly the most confusing country ever and you have to constantly watch your back.For one, there are two currencies- one mostly for the foreigners (the CUC), and one for the locals (moneda nacional).You have to be really careful at all times because a lot of the exchange places in the streets will try to blag you and change your money for the local money which is worth an awful lot less than the CUC.Then there is the fact that nothing comes for free.Now I know this is true everywhere but Cubans take it to an extreme.If they merely point you in the direction of a taxi they expect to be paid for it and then there is the commission.If anyone shows you to a restaurant, taxi, casa particulares etc they will be getting commission for it somewhere along the line and you will be paying for it so the prices of everything go up.So you have to constantly fend off help from people so you don't have to pay extortionate prices for it!There is also the matter of castro.Everywhere you look there are posters pledging allegiance and there are even ones saying patriota o muerte (roughly: patriot or death)! (I don't think this means you will actually be killed, more life is not worth living if you are not a patriot!).And the cubans all seem very patriotic when you speak to them.There are bill boards against george bush everywhere and the hate for america is quite apparent.However underneath it all there is a massive black market and the Cubans weren't so nice about castro when they had a few drinks! I came away just as confused about what on earth is going on and how the system works etc as when I arrived!