The hotel found me an excellent guide. He talked more or less nonstop, partly about the temple and a raft of stories, all interlaced with references to American television and films which he certainly knew better than I did: a story about one hero ended with"so you see, he was just like Batman," which didn't leave me any the wiser. Still, he was very helpfula and entertaining. I had never planed to actually climbing these many layers, only contemplating them respectfully from below, which we did. we walked around the temple, somewhat accidentally going counterclockwise, which it later turned out he didn't think was right. I know it's nto the right way to go around Celtic churches, but since water goes down the drain counterclockwise in Jave (I think) it ought to be all right to go around monuments that way-The carvers, however, arranged the reliefs clockwise, as I found out the next day.