Kia Orana, So we left the land of Fat and headed towards the islands discovered by the multi-national travel agents. After our breakie of champers and pie (trying to be posh with champers and it was free, belly loved the pie) we landed at Rarotonga, the main Cook Island. Its 32km around, has one main road (well tarmac path), no traffic lights and 1 round-about and is as chilled as Malibu itself, but there is never any 'total grid lock man'. We found the government offices - a tin shack as big as a garden shed, and the Sports Fed + Olympic Comittee building - honestly i've been in bigger cloakrooms. We were dropped off at our Beach House and jean-clude-van-DAMN she was a beauty. A mere spitting distance away from the lucsious clear blue sea, pure white sand up to the balcony of our house, with a BBQ, hammock and tire swing and all enclosed by palm trees. All we have to say is HAHAHAHAHA ur all in England, and it was a bargin at 10pounds a nite. This is definitely the island where 'laid-backness' ariginates and the words crime, burglary and mugging realy do not exist. There is more chance of phil having a 3some than being robbed in the Cook Islands. The ideas of keys and locks are silly to these people. We could have left all our belongings, passports ipods etc on show with signs pointing at them, leaflets advertising that our stuff is available and nobody would have even thought about having them. One night we actually locked ourselves (well blame kate) out of our beach hut. It took phil with absolutely no breaking and entering experience, less than 30 seconds to remove a window climb in and save us the embaressment of asking for another key. Safety is another aspect of island life which is invisible. The taxi driver thought kate and laura where crazy for trying to put on a seat belt - 'dont be silly, seatbelts are poitnless', maybe thats the only law in the island - no seatbelts. Phil did borrow a jeep to ride round the island for a bit - easiest driving ever. Hitch hicking was classice though. We jumped into so many pick-up trucks. A guy called morris told us just to push his stuff over - moving a rotating saw, strimmers, nails and a few macheties isnt what were expexting. And when phil leaned against the side and nearly fell out, we really wanted a seatlbelt. Safety first in the cook islands. There wasnt a great deal going on on the island, so to entertain oursleves and with the girls determination to stay a size 12 (and stay in thier bikini) we rented push bikes. 8 hours of biking, few broken brakes, saddle rash and very sore bums later we decided that we had done enough biking for the year. Next day came and we decided to take the much reccommended trek across the island through rain-type forests and up big mountains. Be-jesus it was a trek. 80deg inclines, inch wide paths with 100ft death drops either side and, as prepared as always, wearing trainers that gave us no help - it was hard work. One chap we met before did give us a compass and said just keep on heading south and you'll be fine. We got to the centre of the island fine - a big rock sticking up called the needle, very high with amazing veiws- we were happy to make the climb. Well untill on girls started to read her lonely planet guide which told stories of death by falling rock at the needle - we were soon sliding back down. Then we took the mammoth of all wrong turns and started climbing again. Seriously pretty scary stuff, holding onto twigs and roots for dear life and one slip would have seen us rolling for a long time. Ah well it didnt kill us, it made us stronger. It was ana amazing trek ending in a dip in a waterfall. Apprently it is a water catchment area, well its contaminated now. Bit of piss in the drinking water doesnt hurt!!! We did take in a bit of culture . Went to an traditional island night with traditional island dancing which hopefully stays in the island - well the blokes anyway. The girls shaking thier booty was pretty good - talented hip action. The men on the otherside did the fastest knee-knocking ever, Michael Jacko style chamooon. Other highlights (well events other than chilling out); - Lau and kate not only ate a big fresh fish steak but wanted more. The nicest fresh broadbill. Will get then eating all seafood. - Spending the first evening not very happy about the amount of mini lizards in our house. Watched them for hours. - We founda huge cockroach in kate's bag, which flew at us. We all ran out the house very quick (lots of screaming and phil was involved - but it was a huge beast). We never knew the damn things could fly. Anywhooo, now in Fiji. After nearly missing our flight (got a few datesm days, weeks, times mixed up - easily done) we flew over the date line losing 24hours ( they might turn up somehwhere) hope you spent them wisely!! PujaPuja, Phil, Lau and Kate