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My first task of the day (after brekkie, showering and getting the thermals out!) was to pop round the corner, literally, to the Tourist Information Centre. Here the very helpful lady gave mea few tips as I purchased a 3 day Bratislava Card. For 25 Euros this gives free public transport, free access to some attractions as well discounts at others and various businesses.
The Tourist Information Centre is located in Primaciálne námestie, one of the many squares that litter the historic area. The main attraction here is the Primaciálny Palác (Primate's Palace) with is pink exterior. An archway leads into the courtyard at the rear of the Old Town Hall, with a further archway giving access to Hlavné námestie.
This square has many interesting features including Maximiliánova Fontána (Maximilian's fountain) who was the first Hungarian king to be crowned in Bratislava. In 1572 after for ravaged the town, he had this fountain built to provide a means of fighting any future fires. Local legend claims that at midnight on New Year's Eve, Maximilian II turns and salutes in all 4 directions - but only female virgins can see this!
As I headed towards the castle (Hrad) I passed the Dóm sv Martina (St. Martin's Cathedral) and through Rybné námestie. Here Pamätaj is a statue in molten metal worth a Start of Davis on top. Pamätaj is the Slovak word for remember and the statue commemorates the 105,000 Slovakian Holocaust victims. It's location is significant as it stands on the site of the former Neolog Synagogue which was demolished in 1971 to make way for the new road to Novy Most (New Bridge).
Novy Most is one of the most striking structures in Bratislava. On the southern bank of the Danube stands the UFO - a structure that actually reminds me of the Martians for War of the Worlds. It's both a viewing platform and restaurant.
I continued to the castle, one of the attractions that is free with the Bratislava Card. The castle is a stunning building sitting atop a rocky hill. Known locally as the upside-down bedstead, it dominates the city. The store of previous fortifications, construction of the current castle commenced under King Sigismund of Luxembourg in 1430, with various additions made as time marched on. The Habsburgs used it as protection against the Turks. From 1552, the castle house the Hungarian crown jewels.
In 1761, Maria Theresa redesigned the interior in a Rococo style and added a number of annexes and it became the home of her favourite daughter and her husband, Archduke Albert of Sacony-Teschen, the Governor of Hungary. Subsequent generations neglected the castle and it fell into disrepair. In 1811 disaster struck and if burnt down,c leaving just the shell of the building. After much debate over the date of the castle, including plans to completely demolish it, in 1953 work began to restore it to it's former glory. Work which continues today.
Highlights of the visit were climbing up the tower, which afforded panoramic views of the city, and an interesting exhibition of the Velvet Revolution of 1989 when the Iron Curtain came crashing down with the fall of communism in the former Warsaw Pact countries.
Leaving the castle I made for Michalská brána, Michael's Gate. This is one of the city gate that were constructed in the 14th century, a fourth gate being added later. Later in the 19th century, the other city fortifications were demolished to allow the city to expand. Michael's Bridge, by the gate, spans what is left of the moat. The 5 floors of the tower now houses the Museum of Arms, an interesting collection of swords, guns and armour. The top floor gifts access to the outer gallery and more panoramic views of the city.
Leaving the gate I turned right into Bastova, the narrowest alley in town and in medieval times home to the city hangman. Now it's home to a strip club!
Heading towards the Danube, I passed several buildings of interest including Leopold Dr Pauli Palace, where in 1762 Lists have a concert at the age of 9. Just down the road at Ventures 10, Mozart gave his only concert in what was then Hungary at the age of 6.
I passed Cumil, aka Man at Work. This is a quirky statue of a man looking out of a manhole. Cumil translates as The Watcher. There are debates as to whether he represents a typical Communist era worker who's not bothered about the work he's supposed to be doing, or simply a guy who likes to look up skirts!
Approaching the river I paused at Morovy Stíp, a column dedicated to the Christian Holy Trinity.
Once on the north back of the Danube, I took photos of the UFO with the sun behind it and then strolled eastwards along the bank. Along the way I passed a striking soldier's memorial and The Girl with Butterfly Wings. The latter is a beautiful bronze statue of a small ballerina and is dedicated to Valentinka, who died from leukemia at the age of 10. The inscription reads:
"I loved Valentinka and all children who are no longer with us.
Unveiled 8 Sept 2010"
Sad but beautiful.
Back across the main road was L'udovit Stur, a memorial to the Slovak poet. From here I walked for the corner into Hviezdoslavovo námestie, named after another Slovak poet, Pavol Országh Hviezdoslav, who was also a member of the Czechoslovak parliament. As well as his statue, there is one of Hans Christian Andersen. Flanking the square is the palatial looking Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel, US and German embassies and at the end the Slovak National Theatre.
The square also houses the Zylinder Cafe Restaurant, recommended by the lady in the Tourist Information Centre. Here I enjoyed a meal of 3 meat patties with sour potato mash, followed by Hot Chocolate Cake.
I then headed back to my apartment for a relaxing evening and bath!
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