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Kedarkantha: A beginner’s winter trek offering you challenging ascends and nature’s white beauty
Sankri, India
'If you don't regret coming on a trek, then it was not a worthy trek'- words that turned out to be true during my recent trek to Kedarkantha peak.
Kedarkantha peak is, located in the heart of Himalayan Sankri range in Uttarkashi, Uttarakhand, a beginner's winter trek offering you a lifetime of experience and combining in itself challenging ascends and descends, heavenly nature's snow-capped and green beauty, camping under stars, shivering cold weather and much more. Stay tuned to experience it with me as I go on to detail my experience hereunder.
I got to know about Kedarkantha trek during my trek to Har Ki Dun Valley in 2018. Knowing that it's a winter trek, I had added the same in my bucket list and since then I have been trying to go on this mini-expedition. I got the opportunity to tick it off my bucket list in December 2019. Initially, I was a bit hesitant for the trek as it was my first winter trek and that too with unknown faces. However, thinking about the fact that this trek will open gates for future tougher winter treks and swinging by the phrase 'darr ke aagey jeet hai', I decided to go in for the trek. To prevent myself from backing out of the decision, I made a booking with 'The Himalayan Ambition' (some might relate to this act). The only doubt I had in mind while booking with the agency was that I should not regret selecting this agency, as now there are a lot of agencies (experienced and inexperienced) providing you the service. However, at the end of the trek, I was satisfied that I made the right choice in terms of agency. You might feel the same as you proceed with the blog. Without boring you further, let me begin the narration of my journey:
The preparation
The preparation involved gathering of multiple necessary items viz. gears, clothes, food, etc. for the trek and reaching the pickup point in Dehradun. The things required for the trek are detailed below:
· Waterproof shoes, a necessity and your best companion during snow treks. Without these, it will be difficult to walk in the snow and also, your feet and socks will not remain dry leading to adverse effects during and after the trek. You can either take waterproof shoes (investment for both summer and winter treks) or shoes meant for snow trek (can't be used for summer trek);
· Trekking pole, torch and poncho;
· 3-4 pair of woolen socks;
· Sufficient pair (including spare) of woolens- fleece, inner wears, sweater, jackets, muffler; t-shirts, waterproof pants;
· Woolen cap, waterproof gloves (to keep your hands warm and let you enjoy the snow) and sunglasses (to prevent you from getting blind due to reflection of the sun on snow);
· Microspikes and gaiters (a necessity for snow trek)- Provided by the agency
· Water bottle, tissue paper, sanitizer (you will find water only at the campsites. You will have to go to distant places otherwise to fetch water)
· Additional small bag to store a water bottle and other necessary stuff for the trek from Kedarkantha base camp to the summit (you will leave remaining stuff at the base camp only)
· Others optional things- medicine, chocolates, roasted nuts, camera to capture the beauty
If I tell you about my woolen quota, I covered my upper half with 5 layers upto Kedarkantha base camp and with 7 layers for the summit trek while with the lower half was covered with 2 layers upto base camp and with 3 layers for the summit.
PS: You can rent trekking gears if you don't wish to buy them. You will find multiple service providers in Sankri (base camp from where the trek starts). It is not that you can't trek without the aforementioned things, however, it makes the trek pleasant and less challenging.
Ideal time for trek
As mentioned before, it is a winter trek so the ideal time is till the snow stays. The ideal time is from December to March. However, depending on the snowfall, the trek might extend upto April.
The mini-expedition journey:
Day 1_Dehradun-Sankri base camp_200Km: All excited, I reached the boarding point i.e. Dehradun ISBT on the morning of 26th December, 2019. We had to travel to Sankri (height of 1920 m), 200 Km from Dehradun, by Tempo traveler. In the traveler, I met my 11 co-travelers from the northern, western and central parts of the county. I had the chance to interact with the 2 at the beginning but not with the remaining 9 who were busy in their group. It made me assume that the co-ordination was going to be difficult during the trek. However, with time and as the trek progressed, we became one coordinated group, supporting each other and enjoying to the fullest (Benefits of traveling solo with an agency, you get to meet new people from different cultures).
So we began our journey to Sankri at around 8:30 am. In between we halted for:
· Breakfast near Kempty fall, Mussoorie
· Some fun and clicks by the river on our way
· Lunch at Purola
Finally we reached the Sankri base camp, our halt for Day 1, at around 6:30 pm, our halt for the day. When we reached, we were allotted our rooms in the GMVN guest house. Fortunately, the guest house and the washrooms (which is a concern for many) were clean. We rested and freshened up a bit. Thereafter, we were introduced to our trek leader and manager, who briefed us about the trek and the do's & don'ts. Key takeaways were to avoid alcohol as it dehydrates the body, change socks and wet clothes every night to avoid frostbites and cold, sufficient layering to avoid shivering, the necessity of co-ordination and discipline within group, keeping the trail clean to preserve the serenity and beauty, and most important to look after one's health.
By the time we came out of our rooms for briefing, we had started to feel the chilly weather of the place. Tea was served to us post the briefing which felt nothing less than a god-sent savior. Since we had reached a bit late, we were soon after served with dinner. The dinner was dal, rice, chapatti, papad (which was constant during the whole trek) and dessert. Post dinner, we were asked to take rest and be prepared for the trek to Jainula (our halting-place for day 2).
Information: Sankri is located at height of 1,920 m. and serves as a base camp for around 20 treks including many popular ones like Har-Ki-Dun, Changsheel Meadows, Borasu pass, Rupin Pass, Phulara Ridge, Bali Pass.
Day 2_Sankri base camp-Jainula_2.5 Km: I got up next morning with goosebumps which I am yet to figure out, were due to cold or from the excitement. We got ready, had our breakfast, arranged the rented gears (for those without sufficient gears) and finally started the adventurous trek. We were headed to Jainula (1.5 km away from Juda Ka Talaab and 2.5 Km from Sankri), our campsite for day 1. We began at 10 am (a bit late) in the morning (disadvantages of traveling in a group where you have to follow and proceed as per group's convenience) and managed to reach our camps at 2:30 pm.
Initially it was a bit difficult to trek as you take time to acclimatize. Just after trekking for 1 Km, you can start experiencing the white crystals on the sides and feel like tapping your back for deciding to come for the trek. On the way, you will find a canteen which serves you bread omelet, bun maska, black tea & coffee and the obvious 2- minute maggi. The canteen was located at a point from where you can see the snow-capped mountains and feel the beauty. Damn, it will give you chills. Needless to mention, the trek offers you multiple points to capture beautiful landscapes.
Our camp was surrounded by the heavy snow (hard as well as fresh powdery snow). The camps were double/ triple sharing. On reaching the camp, we were served with lunch (dal, rice and papad). We had the remaining day with ourselves to enjoy in snow, rest and prepare ourselves for steeper ascent with snow beneath our feet the next day. At around 7:30 pm we were served with dinner (same menu as last night). Post dinner, we gazed at the beauty of stars from our camp for some time and thereafter went off to sleep.
Camps are located on the side of the mountain that receives sunlight only for a very limited time. Accordingly, it was freezing cold at night with temperature touching minus degrees at night (you will feel the same when you find water droplets on the inside of the tent next morning).
Day 3_Jainula-Kedarkantha Base camp_4 Km: We were to start the trek at around 9 am. I seized the opportunity, got up early, climbed the mountain to witness the rays of rising sun falling on a distant mountain and feel the surrounding calm. If you love sleeping, then you might consider giving up for a day and it will be all worth it. After all were up, we were served with breakfast (halwa, poha and savior black tea). Since we had to trek on the snow, we were given microspikes (worn below the shoes to prevent sliding on snow). Afterward, we got ready, packed ourselves, equipped our shoes with spikes and began onward trek at 10 am. We had to trek 4 km to reach the Kedarkanth base camp. It was a great first-time experience for me to trek on snow. This day, the trek was steeper and difficult. It took us 6 hours to reach the Kedarkantha base camp.
After walking for around 1.5 km, we reached the frozen Juda Ka Talaab.Since the strength of the ice cover was uncertain, we were strictly instructed not to walk on the lake. At the lake site, you will find a canteen. Here we halted for a while to let the beauty of snow and the frozen lake to sink in.
After capturing surroundings and resting for some time, we resumed our trek and reached Kedarkantha base camp, our campsite for day 3, at around 4 pm. As we were about to reach the base camp, we had a clear view of the Kedarkantha peak.
The site was like a large bugyal covered with snow all around. From there, you have a 180-degree view of the mountain (you will have to be there to feel the beauty and it can't be put in words). Sight of the peak and campsite brought back energy among the folks.
Unlike Jainula, the campsite received sunlight for greater part of the day and thus, you can enjoy the bright shining sun for quite some time. We had our lunch (same menu) and rested for a while in our twin and triple sharing tents. Afterwards, we came out of our caves to enjoy the snow. The team made a customary snowman, had a snow fight and enjoyed the peaceful sunset. Soon after the sunset, it became very get cold so all went back inside their caves. At night we were served the dinner (same menu) at around 7 pm and were asked to rest and sleep as we had to begin the trek to the peak next day at 3 am). That day too we had the chance to gaze at the beautiful stars before dozing off in the mystical air of the snowcapped surroundings. I must say that it was a bit difficult to sleep since we were excited to scale the peak next day, the temperature had further fallen as compared to the last day and camps were on a slope so it was difficult to stay still inside the sleeping bags.
Day 4_Kedarkantha base camp-Kedarkantha Peak and back to Jainula_3.5 Km and 7.5 Km respectively: So the final summit day came. We got up at 1:30 am, got ready, had breakfast (make sure that you eat something even if you don't wish to), equipped ourselves with a water bottle, micro-spikes & gaiters, torch, sufficient layers of thermal and began our trek at 3 am.
That day we were specifically instructed to move with the group in line as it was night time and a large crowd was on the trail. This part of the trek was even steeper and difficult. We had to trek 3.5 Km. First 2 Km were comparatively easier than the later part. The last 1.5 Km ascent was at an inclination of 75 degrees. The inclination coupled with the crowd made it very difficult to trek. After 2 Km you can find a canteen where you can rest a bit, have refreshments and get ready for the steep ascent. One of our team members had backed out at the start as he was not well while another backed out on reaching the canteen, feeling the steepness of trek. So now it was only 10 of us and the guide. Remember the words "not a worthy trek if you don't regret it". It was 6:45 am when we finally reached the summit after trekking for 2.5 hours.
All the pains and the sufferings during the trek were worth the breathtaking view that you witness at a height of 3,810 m. You witness a 360-degree view of the mountain peaks, satisfying sunrise, a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, teeth-chattering cold and obviously the snow. Another satisfying thing was that you get mobile network and you are able to communicate with loved ones after being out for 2-3 days.
Post arrival we found a spot, fixed our cameras to capture changing colours of the sky during sunrise and waited patiently for the sun to come up. However, the wait was not easy as even 7 layers of thermals, hand gloves, 2 pairs of woolen socks & waterproof shoes were not sufficient to prevent the body from freezing. The sun rose at around 7:20 am. Post capturing the sunrise, we clicked mandatory group and solo pictures (PS: Prefer camera over mobile phones for pictures as it is difficult to use mobile with gloves on. If you take off gloves, well I leave it on your imagination what will happen).
Now was the time to return and enjoy the fun part. Here you get additional fruit of climbing the steep hill. While returning, you have the option to come down trekking slowly or rapidly sliding down the steep snow-covered slopes. If you get the perfect slide, you can even experience an adrenalin rush. Further, the return trail gives you numerous beautiful landscapes that you will remember for the rest of your life.
So we slid and trekked back to our camps and reached Kedarkantha base at around 1 pm. We rested for some time, had lunch, packed our bags and began our descent to the Jainula Base Camp. We started at 3 pm and reached the Jainula campsite after walking 4 Km, at 5 pm. We had to halt at Jainula camp for the day. So post reaching, we were served tea and later the dinner. Thereafter we rested and prepared to return the next day.
PS: We were fortunate to have been allowed to use spikes upto Jainula, in absence of which we would have slipped continuously like fellow trekkers whose agency provided spikes till Kedarkantha base camp.
Day 5_Jainula-Sankri Base camp-Dehradun: It was the final day of the adventurous journey. We got up, had breakfast and packed ourselves for homes. As I got up, I realized that I had forgotten to click my customary headstand at the destination. Though it was a late realization, it was not a very late one and I got my headstand (with snow all around) clicked near the Jainula campsite.
We started at 9:30 am from Jainula and reached Sankri at 11:30 am. Even though everyone was tired but I can't miss saying that there was a sense of satisfaction. We rested a while, took our belongings (unnecessary stuff that we did not require for the trek and had left behind at the beginning) from the cloakroom and packed our bags. We had lunch, purchased souvenirs and afterwards boarded the tempo traveler for Dehradun. We started at around 2 pm and reached ISBT at 10:30 pm. Now was the time for the group of satisfied travelers to part and bid goodbye.
Things to do on the trek:
· Climb the mountains and enjoy the colour changing sunset sky;
· Enjoy soft powdery snow;
· At Jainula there is a canteen where you can eat and enjoy the warmth of fire used for cooking by the owner (will become a necessity due to freezing weather). Theowner plays melodious flute which you can enjoy. Bonfire is not permitted as it is within a forest range;
· Stargazing (as much as your body and temperature permits);
· Capture the beautiful peaks and the peaceful setting sun (a sight to watch);
· Enjoy freezing wind at top of the peak, satisfying sunrise & sunset, mesmerizing landscapes;
· Slide through the slopes & experience adrenalin rush.
Things to remember:
· You can complete the trek in 4 days if you halt directly at Kedarkantha Base camp;
· Sufficient layering of thermals (a must);
· Keep yourself hydrated;
· Mobile network is not available after Purola but will be available at a corner on the peak;
· Temperature decreases as you go up. At peak, temperature ranges in minus, sometimes falling to -20 degrees Celsius. At the Kedarkantha base camp, the temperature falls upto -7/8 degrees.
· Always keep the environment clean.
I hope I was able to give you feel of the Kedarkantha trek. However, I must mention that nothing can beat one's own experience as it is said 'Don't listen to what they say. Go see". So guys get inspired and pack your bags for this adventurous journey. Please feel free to comment to inquire about the trek or suggest any improvements. Also, once you are done with the trek, do let me know if your experience matched with mine J
Happy traveling!!
PS: You can find me at:
Facebook: Shivam Agrawala
Instagram: agrawala_shivam
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