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How many different experiences can you pack into one small country?
After leaving the comfortable city of Montevideo I headed east to the little surfing village of La Paloma where I stayed with Ricardo and Nicole right on the beach. Three glorious days of sunshine, breakfast on the dunes overlooking the beach, being taken on adventures to nearby beaches by Ricardo and barbeques in the evening and I was reluctant to leave.. I was happy to be there before the summer season really starts and the little town of 3,000 swells to 35,000. Sounds a bit like the Sunshine Coast, no?
On to Punta del Diablo, which is desperately trying to cling onto its small fishing village tag despite the fact that Americans and Europeans have discovered its quiet beauty and there are beach shacks popping up all over the place. Luckily, especially at this time of year before the high season starts, it still remains a peaceful little place with fishermen still happy to sell you fresh fish from their ´gutting shop´, ladies still making fish empanadas before your eyes on the jetty and the weekly rubbish collection by horse and cart. Like most places in South America it had its fair share of street dogs, and one which took a particular shine to me and used to walk along the beach with me and then come swimming! Two bedroom fisherman´s cottage located right on the beach going for US$50,000. Hmm..
Leaving Punta del Diablo I opted to head north to inland Uruguay rather than back through Montevideo and found myself speeding through farmlands on roads so deserted I even saw a tortoise crossing in front of us at one point.. On the first day I made it as far as Melo, a town aptly named, and bedded down in a little hotel with a balcony overlooking the main street. Delighted to find that men really do wander around the streets in berets, cowboy boots and with sacks on their backs, watching you curiously.
Up early the next morning to get to Tacuarembó where I discovered that buses to my next destination only went twice a week! So I drop a gear, change destinations and stay in Tacuarembo for the night, finding a hotel which can only be described as `interesting´ for fear of shocking a few reading this. Let´s just say that I was happy to have a 5am wake up call..
I am now in Paysandú, on the border of Argentina and Uruguay, and am about to go and have a steak with my last remaining Uruguayan pesos before taking the afternoon bus (only one a day!) across the border to Colon in Argentina.
Paraguay, here I come.
- comments
Jules Hmm...my darling...sounds like you have been off the beaten track in parts of Uruguay....and loving it..Punta del Diablo really got my visualisation stirred, with the abundant fish, and traditional food...and the dog swimming with you... :) I so wonder about that hotel in Tacurarembo though...?? Hmm...tell me more sometime.. Love you, to find you exploring your way north...Stay safe...Mamaxxxxxxx
lorrie El your beautiful mama has let me share some of your journey - am so envious. I've been hearing so much about this fantastic adventure since you began -it's even better to read it from the 'horse's mouth' - that doesn't sound too flattering but you know what I mean I hope. South America is somewhere I've never been but you surely are wetting my wanderlust - thankyou Ella