We left Galway in the pouring rain. It was such a great visit, I think both Lisa and I regretted having to leave. Since we afre both security seekers, we freaked when we didn't make reservations ahead. This is one time I wish we didn't have reservations and could have just gone with it. Galway will always be a happy memory.

At first glance, Dublin is like most big cities. Then I noticed her sense of humor. First you have the monument. It is a tall tappering steel sculpture in memory of a distinguished political or military guy ( I don't remember). To me, it was a giant stick pin marking our hotel in the skyline. Yes, I know that is very American of me. Dublin is a quirky town. They have bars dedicated to literary men- with their writings all over the city. Quotables are set in tiles on bridges and in building. On one bridge, a discretely lit question:"Troll Below?" made my late-night walk home charming. We talked to a street artist who had been doing it for 23 years. Pictures of his work are included with his permission. We also met a few crazies--but every town has them.

We saw the evidence of the Viking past in sculpture and castles and artwork inlaid into the walkways of the city. We found a pub that let us try traditional Set Dancing. I have total respect for these 60 and 70 year olds who dance all night while we sat panting and red-faced from ONE dance. They were patient and encouraging and fun. They flirt outrageously and make every female feel romanced. For example, when giving instuction on how to hold hands during the dance , one gentleman told Lisa 'the woman's hand is always on top- closer to God'. We both knew it was really a practicality- to make it easier to pass us to the next dancer. But, it was charming anyway. Here is what they taught me- there are ways to get your practicalities taken care of and be charming at the same time.

We listened to folk stories and their place in Irish culture as a way to pass down values. As a people, they discorage arrogance and meanness and hold civility in great esteem. Nowhere is that more evident than in their kindness to strangers. If you are brash and ignorant, you'd better beware of the Pucca and the fairies and the Fay. You may just get carried away.

We had an afteroon without a plan and went to a small fishing village- a real one- not a touristy one. It was one of my favorite things. We walked around the peer freezing to dealth and being blown around by the sea wind. That same wind made the ships moored in the harbor sound like a giant windchime with their riggings clanging. We started up the hill and were glad to catch a bus. The driver was playful- I think he was playing - and told us we should just walk to the top of the hill. It was a relentless uphill climb for about 10 min driving. We started on our cliff walk after a stern warning from that same driver not to get blown off the cliffs. I don't think he was kidding that time. We found our chosen path and enjoyed the sea, the wind, the heather and the sunshine. Sooner than we liked, we were making our way down a steep path to the sea. Along the way, we stopped to watch some seals swim- then back for tea and scones before catching the train back to Dublin. I am not a big-city-kind-of-girl so this afternoon did my heart good. The hotel room in Dublin was wild. Cheetah print chairs, stripped carpet and polka- dotted satin curtains. You'll have to see for yourself ( pics). We had to catch a 7 o'clock flight ( thanks Ryanair) in the AM. Waiting at the bus stop at 4:30 AM, a taxi took 4 of us for 5 E each to the airport. We saved 2 E each and got there fast. Apparently, at that time in the morning, traffic signals are only decorative. Good to know.